danielhv

danielhv

Well Known Member
Im removing the rear baffle on my tank to re-seal it since I can't seem to fix the weeping rivet problem. I have all the rivets drilled out and the seal is broke... problem is I cant get in there to break the seal on the ends of the ribs to the baffle. I cant get anything in there to pry at it without pulling the baffle out too far... suggestions?
 
Would a heat gun sufficiently soften the proseal for you to break the seal? I'm sure someone will have a great suggestion that will work but that is all that is coming to me right now...good luck and hope you are able to solve this quickly and move on.
 
Hi,

Not sure if this is what you are looking for, but if something long and skinny, how about a piece of 1 inch wide metal straping. the stuff you use to band up materials loads on pallets. Sharpen up the end as you see fit. Break the seal on the end ribs and gently go at the next rib.

Steve Ciha
 
Drill a few 1/8" holes and put clecos in them, then pull on the clecos to get a little more pull in the correct locations.

All else failing, brute strength it out and buy a new baffle. They are not very expensive, I bought two of them for my extended range tanks.
 
Ummm...

Buy all the parts for a new tank and use the old one to make other parts with? :(
 
And on the next one, remember - proseal is your FRIEND. I'm sure my tanks weigh a few ounces more than other builders tanks, because I slathered that nasty stuff on nice and thick and plenty of it, but they don't leak. Also - when doing the skin rivets - did you soak the rivets first in acetone or MEK to clean manufacturing oils off them?
 
If you're still messing with this, heat (heat gun) works wonders for encouraging proseal to release.
 
Ok, im ordering a new one. The old one is destroyed. Is there a difference between the L/R baffels? Im not seeing one offhand, so I may just order one and use the one for the Right tank to finish my Left while I wait on shipping......
 
Just an FYI for any others who may end up going down this road.

It's a heck of a lot easier to just cut a few big "inspection holes" in the rear baffle to fix any interior leaks than it is to remove the entire baffle. It's also easier to seal up some round holes than it is to install a completely new baffle. Most every type of leak can be addressed without completely removing the entire baffle.

My 2 cents as usual.

Cheers,
Stein
 
I'll stick my neck out and state (for reference next time) that I don't fully agree with the method of rear baffle install in the instructions. I think they tell you not to smear a good layer of proseal on the baffle flange for fear of pillowing between rivets. Poo! Also, the instructions talk about pushing a bead along from the skin to form a fillet, or something like that... I put a nice thick (3/32"?) layer of proseal on the baffle flanges before install. With two people, you can pry the skins apart just enough to not wipe all the proseal off while you drop it in. Then a cleco in every hole and a little pressure between clecos to be sure things are squeezed down. The squeeze out forms the interior fillet. I've done four of my own tanks this way, no pillowing, no leaks. I also put a little proseal in the dimple or countersink under the head of every rivet. Just my 2c.
 
two necks out there !

scard said:
I'll stick my neck out and state (for reference next time) that I don't fully agree with the method of rear baffle install in the instructions. I think they tell you not to smear a good layer of proseal on the baffle flange for fear of pillowing between rivets. Poo! Also, the instructions talk about pushing a bead along from the skin to form a fillet, or something like that... I put a nice thick (3/32"?) layer of proseal on the baffle flanges before install. With two people, you can pry the skins apart just enough to not wipe all the proseal off while you drop it in. Then a cleco in every hole and a little pressure between clecos to be sure things are squeezed down. The squeeze out forms the interior fillet. I've done four of my own tanks this way, no pillowing, no leaks. I also put a little proseal in the dimple or countersink under the head of every rivet. Just my 2c.
Click to expand...

I agree with Scott and did ours the exact same way, with the same result...no leaks. You have a lot of working time with the grey guck so get it right the first time..i say..:)
 
Yea I did not put the proseal on the flange, only the bead. Which is what I plan on doing differently from now on. I WILL be putting it on the flange as well.... So, anybody know if the L & R baffles are the same??
 
they are diffrent

L and R baffels are not the same - the spacing of the #30 holes for the tank (704?) ribs are not the same. I also think the bend radius of one of the webs is diffrent than the other. I have part of my old ones (spliced 2 together to make larger tanks) I could look at to confirm if you want me to. I beleive they are chiral - why else label them L and R?
 
Having done both ways... pulling the rear baffle works, but not without destroying it. Cutting the holes and making panels is the preferred method.

If you want to split proseal take a piece of 1/16" steel around 1.5" x 4", bend it about 30? about 1.5" along it, on the bench grinder taper the bent side toward a 1/2" radius. Then thin it out to a feathered edge... It can slide in a split the proseal, then use the angle side to pry a little and work your way down the seam.

Best I can describe it anyway. I'll take a picture next time I'm at the hanger.

And if you have access to a brake, i wouldn't buy a baffle, I'd fab one. Not that hard and you can match drill it to the skin you already have.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.