[Paul B]

Inboard top skin and wing walk doubler are clecoed to left wing. One more look at drawings before riveting and I see that I am supposed to leave 9 holes open in the most inboard row for wing root fairing. Further, it says not to dimple these holes (too late) and I should refer to drawing 38. I can't find anything that seems to relate to this in drawing 38. It would help me if I knew how the root fairing attached, but since I don't . . . a few questions.

Is it a big deal to leave these holes dimpled, or should I remove the top skin and un-dimple the holes?

What about the under-laying wing walk doubler? Should I un-dimple these?

What about the most inboard rib? Should the corresponding holes in this rib be un-dimpled?

I really appreciate all the help I have been getting here lately. I promise to get better

 

[mcencula]

If you look at DWG38 on the right hand side, the plans show K1000 nutplates on top. I thought that was odd, and checked a bunch of RVs during one trip to OSH. They all had flush screws on top (and bottom IIRC), so I dimpled for K1100 nutplates both top and bottom.

If it were me, I'd drill those holes for #8 screws, drill holes on either side of each #8 hole for nutplate attachment (through skin, wing walk doubler, and rib on top; through skin and rib on bottom), then dimple all the holes for the appropriate nutplate rivets and screws.

Good luck,

 

[Rick_A]

Should be same as the 7's

The wing root fairing fills the gap between the wing and the fuselage. The 9 holes have nothing to do with any of the wing ribs.

The wing root fairing is a VERY tight fit. It is very difficult to get the cleco's in when you fit the fairing around the leading edge of the wing. Some of the holes have in the fairing have to be match drilled to the pre-punched holes in the wings. The biggest problem that you are going to have from the dimples may be that it will make matching drilling more difficult or the cleco's may not hold quite as well when you're fitting the fairing.

I would not try to flatten out the dimples as this will probably make matters worse since you will eventually have to re-dimple them.

FYI. I re-made my wing root fairing after my plane had been flying a few months (I made to gap between the fairing and the fuse a tad too large and the rubber seal did not lay quite right). Needless to say, I had the dimples and nutplates all installed when I re-made the fairings.

 

[mikeasselin]

Wing Root Fairing 7A

I have match drilled and fit the wing root fairing and I am happy with the fit. The wings are now off (again) and I'm currently at the stage of dimpling the holes for the wing root fairing. The total thickness of the wing walk doubler area makes countersinking a reasonalble approach in this area. For the tank and bottom wing skins dimpling of the skin plus rib seems to be what is inferred although I have concerns with potential buckling around the dimple. I will do a trial on one of the bottom holes.

For those who have not installed the fuel vent lines watch for a conflict between the fuel bulkead fitting washer and the wing root fairing at the leading edge. I was able to trim the washer to avoid the conflict.