PerfTech

PerfTech

Well Known Member
...See, I told you guys I was working on another video and product for you. Well it's finally up on our web-site and we think you will like it. Go have a look see and watch the video. Keep in mind this could save you fifty thousand dollars or so, not to mension a few thousand hours of work. Best all, Allan...:D:D
 
PerfTech said:
...See, I told you guys I was working on another video and product for you. Well it's finally up on our web-site and we think you will like it. Go have a look see and watch the video. Keep in mind this could save you fifty thousand dollars or so, not to mension a few thousand hours of work. Best all, Allan...:D:D
Click to expand...
Very smart!!! My seat in the RV-4 is back a good 2",,, same idea, very nice option.
 
another alternative to the 14

TREADMILL.jpg
 
Im ready for a RV6 kit!!

Allan,

Just let us know when you have a RV6 kit ready. Looks great. I guess you'll be getting more of my money. :D
 
bruceh said:
Will this mod work on a tip-up canopy?
Click to expand...

Yes, But you will need to install a couple of bolts on each longer-on top rail. They can be counter sunk 1/4" bolts so they will not interfere with the canopy. I will do a little more checking and if I see a problem I will post it here. Thanks for the question, Allan..:D
 
Interesting Modification

The reason I am posting is this is not for the flying RV guy who is considering this modification but the guy who is building or thinking about building an RV7/9 and considering this mod.

I am 6'1" with a 34" inseam. Therefore I have a tall upper torso and long arms and require extra long sleeve shirts. I fly a RV-7A tip-up. The seat attach is built to print. I do not use the hinged back brace and my seat back is attached to the middle hinge on the floor. My bottom seat cushion is about 3" thick with a 1.5" back cushion. My head clears the canopy by about 2". I have adjusted my seat cushion height a few times and find this configuration to work the best for me with good over the nose visibility. My arm to instrument panel length is very comfortable. This setup works for my size frame.

If you are a tall guy like me and considering this modification you need to spend time sitting in an RV-7/9 with the proper seating setup before you decide.

Now if there was a way to instantly widen the RV-7/9 by about 2" without any work that would be a modification worth looking into .-Allan can you focus on this for a few months?:D
 
I think

Pmerems said:
The reason I am posting is this is not for the flying RV guy who is considering this modification but the guy who is building or thinking about building an RV7/9 and considering this mod.

I am 6'1" with a 34" inseam. Therefore I have a tall upper torso and long arms and require extra long sleeve shirts. I fly a RV-7A tip-up. The seat attach is built to print. I do not use the hinged back brace and my seat back is attached to the middle hinge on the floor. My bottom seat cushion is about 3" thick with a 1.5" back cushion. My head clears the canopy by about 2". I have adjusted my seat cushion height a few times and find this configuration to work the best for me with good over the nose visibility. My arm to instrument panel length is very comfortable. This setup works for my size frame.

If you are a tall guy like me and considering this modification you need to spend time sitting in an RV-7/9 with the proper seating setup before you decide.

Now if there was a way to instantly widen the RV-7/9 by about 2" without any work that would be a modification worth looking into .-Allan can you focus on this for a few months?:D
Click to expand...

Veeeery good advice from Paul.

In fitting with the naming theme of other products (Anti Splat), it seems to me a better name would be Beer Belly Mod.

It all depends on body type (tall torso, long legs, etc.) on how much help tilting the seat back will provide. You need to also consider the canopy shape. The canopy is getting lower as it moves aft. Depending on your body type, If you change your seating position so that it moves your relative head position aft, you can actually be losing head room because of the canopy slope.

The RV-14 was designed for additional space in all 3 dimensions (not just to provide a better belly to stick clearance for people who needed that). There are a lot of people in the world with big builds that do not generally fit in most airplanes very well (or cars for that matter). That was a main design parameter of the RV-14. It doesn't look to me like this mod. would necessarily make that type of person fit comfortably in an RV-6, 7, or 9.
 
The problem with diets

And treadmill routine is that it takes many weeks/months and real dedication. My second wife and I have been on diets for the last year. I am 6 foot tall down from 236 to 190 and still on a diet. And it is hard to stay on a diet routine - basically, eating less food of the right kind.

A few years ago, my cancer MD wrote to the FAA that I "was an obese ** year old male who is no longer suffering from cancer" - etc. I read this and asked him when he would no longer consider me to be 'obese'. He said 180 pounds. My MD also told me that cancer is accelerated by stress, obesity, and too much beef or red meats. I had an abundance of all three as a Fire Captain with a bad marriage.

The real reason to lose weight is quality of life - period.

Hope that this helps someone to change his/her eating and exercise lifestyle and begin trending towards a healthier life.
 
Allan,
I just wanted to say that you do a very nice job on your videos. They're very professional and helpful. Thanks for the great products you make, and keep up the good work!
 
PerfTech said:
Yes, But you will need to install a couple of bolts on each longer-on top rail. They can be counter sunk 1/4" bolts so they will not interfere with the canopy. I will do a little more checking and if I see a problem I will post it here. Thanks for the question, Allan..:D
Click to expand...

I was looking at my -9 tip-up fuselage today. I don't think the mod would work because of the tip-up latching mechanism. There is a weldment with the latch fingers that sits behind the seat backs and just forward of the flap housing. There is also some extra angles under the stock cross member to reinforce the roll bar on the tip-up.
 
Juvat said:
Allan,
I just wanted to say that you do a very nice job on your videos. They're very professional and helpful. Thanks for the great products you make, and keep up the good work!
Click to expand...

Thank you very much. We try hard and it is nice to see it is appreciated. Allan:D
 
Missing the point

This mod is not for the beer belly, but rather for those with a higher sitting height. Compared to Paul who is 6' 1" with a 34" inseam, I am 6' 2" with a 32" inseam. Simplifying assumptions - that gives me a sitting height 3" higher than Paul, making the modification quite attractive. Now a mod to the fuselage width, might be more likely to be resolved with a treadmill. I don't see how the threadmill reduces the sitting height of the pilot however.
 
BJohnson said:
This mod is not for the beer belly, but rather for those with a higher sitting height. Compared to Paul who is 6' 1" with a 34" inseam, I am 6' 2" with a 32" inseam. Simplifying assumptions - that gives me a sitting height 3" higher than Paul, making the modification quite attractive. Now a mod to the fuselage width, might be more likely to be resolved with a treadmill. I don't see how the threadmill reduces the sitting height of the pilot however.
Click to expand...

It may help you, and it may not. I think Pauls advice is still good for everyone. And keep in mind, the canopy gets lower, the further aft you go. I think this mod is actually likely to help long legged people more than long torso people.
 
Pmerems said:
The reason I am posting is this is not for the flying RV guy who is considering this modification but the guy who is building or thinking about building an RV7/9 and considering this mod.

I am 6'1" with a 34" inseam. Therefore I have a tall upper torso and long arms and require extra long sleeve shirts. I fly a RV-7A tip-up. The seat attach is built to print. I do not use the hinged back brace and my seat back is attached to the middle hinge on the floor. My bottom seat cushion is about 3" thick with a 1.5" back cushion. My head clears the canopy by about 2". I have adjusted my seat cushion height a few times and find this configuration to work the best for me with good over the nose visibility. My arm to instrument panel length is very comfortable. This setup works for my size frame.

If you are a tall guy like me and considering this modification you need to spend time sitting in an RV-7/9 with the proper seating setup before you decide.

Now if there was a way to instantly widen the RV-7/9 by about 2" without any work that would be a modification worth looking into .-Allan can you focus on this for a few months?:D
Click to expand...

...I am also 6'-1" with a 32" inseam with long arms and as I stated in the video this is a far more comfortable position for me. The clearance from top of my head to the canopy went from 1-1/2" or 1" with my head set to just over 4". The 4" is a much more normal head clearance and will also help with the occasional head hitting the canopy in rough air or turbulence. This has happened to me countless times over the last 40 odd years of flying. We actually broke the canopy on my RV-9 a few months ago when our heads hit in severe turbulence. Everyone who has sat in one of the planes with the mod loves it and wants one. As far as making the plane wider, this mod actually accomplishes this to some extent. After this mod two big guys fit far more comfortably in the airplane. The squeeze is at the shoulders and after the mod one seat can be pushed foreword and the other in the back position offsetting the shoulders, thus providing added comfort for pilot and passenger as well. As stated this isn't for everyone but is another option available if one desires. Thanks, Allan..:D
 
BJohnson said:
This mod is not for the beer belly, but rather for those with a higher sitting height. Compared to Paul who is 6' 1" with a 34" inseam, I am 6' 2" with a 32" inseam. Simplifying assumptions - that gives me a sitting height 3" higher than Paul, making the modification quite attractive. Now a mod to the fuselage width, might be more likely to be resolved with a treadmill. I don't see how the threadmill reduces the sitting height of the pilot however.
Click to expand...

...We actually have a "Beer Belly Mod." I have it in my airplane and will put it up soon. I developed it because I am psychologically allergic to our treadmill as I get very depressed every time I look at it. So my wonder drug to cure this is to go have a few beers, works every time. Thanks, Allan..:D
 
Good quality

Juvat said:
Allan,
I just wanted to say that you do a very nice job on your videos. They're very professional and helpful. Thanks for the great products you make, and keep up the good work!
Click to expand...
Agreed - very good production quality makes them enjoyable to watch.
 
Midget

Hmmm,

Well as I am a 5'8" , 150lb midget who goes to the gym regularly I don't think I will need this......... but great to see you still working on improvements for the 'Big Guys' Alan.:)
 
Well, an interesting concept for which I will really have to see if I can make work with a tip up. This is exactly the change I want for my RV. I am 6'2", 32 inch inseam also. Also, develop low back pain when the angle of the seat vs the seat back is too acute. I flew to see a friend and his completed RV-9A last week for this very reason - do i continue my build given my worries on seat geometry. I found that with no seat cushion booster pads (he had Abby's interior), I had 1.5-2 inch clearance, but the angle of by back vs seat was too acute for comfort. Of course, the seat back was against the cross bar. If I used a booster cushion, that angle relaxed, made it more comfortable, but then my head was just touching the canopy (NOT acceptable, and as Allan pointed out, can lead to issues in turbulence). So, I am not happy with head clearance in the RV-9, and something like this can prove to be quite helpful if I can make it work for the tip up (and be assured that there is no compromise in structural integrity).
Neat idea (and needed for some of us).
Carl
 
Another advantage is better fit with two big guys side by side. I flew in an RV-9 years ago with a guy my size, and we were squeezed side to side a bit in the shoulders, arms. It was best with one of us with an arm forward a little, one back. By having one seat fairly reclined with this mod and the other not, it may help here too.
 
Yes, Allan - very interested in this product, and would also like your opinion for a tip up - especially if you have access to one to double check. I will check my project at home later to see also.
Thanks for your innovation!

PerfTech said:
Yes, But you will need to install a couple of bolts on each longer-on top rail. They can be counter sunk 1/4" bolts so they will not interfere with the canopy. I will do a little more checking and if I see a problem I will post it here. Thanks for the question, Allan..:D
Click to expand...
 
cnpeters said:
Yes, Allan - very interested in this product, and would also like your opinion for a tip up - especially if you have access to one to double check. I will check my project at home later to see also.
Thanks for your innovation!
Click to expand...

If you move the seat back, your head will need to fit under the roll bar. And it won't.

You would also need to change how the canopy releases.

It 's also time to relocate the flap motor location. That location is left over from the manual flaps. Beef up the cross tube and mount the motor assy on the side of the fuse like the 8. Did it on my 6 with 1/4th the parts and it is out of my way and easy to service.
 
Great Idea!

Allan, I am 6' 4" tall with an RV-9A and am very interested in your product. Two questions that may be on the minds of others:
1. By moving your head back and down, do you have trouble seeing over the glareshield?
2. Does the flap motor housing poke into your right side or arm now that you are back farther?

Keep up the good work!
 
Alan,

Would it be possible to order this mod without any of the holes pre-punched? I would love to put this in my -6, but it will require modification to work. The flap housing attach is different and since the 6 is not pre-punched, is is unlikely any of the other holes would line up.
 
WingsOnWheels said:
Alan,

Would it be possible to order this mod without any of the holes pre-punched? I would love to put this in my -6, but it will require modification to work. The flap housing attach is different and since the 6 is not pre-punched, is is unlikely any of the other holes would line up.
Click to expand...

Hello Colin
... Just today the 16th I have made arrangements for the use of a Rv-6 that is under construction to use to prototype the mod for the 6. If you can hold on just a week or so we will most likely have a complete package ready that will bolt right in. I will post photos here of all the pieces as soon as we make them. Thank You, Allan..:D
 
Doug Rohrer said:
Allan, I am 6' 4" tall with an RV-9A and am very interested in your product. Two questions that may be on the minds of others:
1. By moving your head back and down, do you have trouble seeing over the glareshield?
2. Does the flap motor housing poke into your right side or arm now that you are back farther?

Keep up the good work!
Click to expand...

I haven't noticed any difference in visibility. I believe the plane was created for the "Standard Pilot" and the mod only serves to locate a tall guys head in the same location vertically as a shorter pilot without the mod. To me, it just feels right.
I never feel the flap motor housing at all as the cushions are thick enough to take up the space.
Thank you for the great questions, Allan..:D
 
gasman said:
If you move the seat back, your head will need to fit under the roll bar. And it won't.

You would also need to change how the canopy releases.

It 's also time to relocate the flap motor location. That location is left over from the manual flaps. Beef up the cross tube and mount the motor assy on the side of the fuse like the 8. Did it on my 6 with 1/4th the parts and it is out of my way and easy to service.
Click to expand...

...I have arranged for access to a RV-7 tip-up and will try to answer all of the questions pertaining to them very soon. We apologize for what appears to be going off half cocked on this project, but it all started with my slider. Again, thank you guys for the great comments and questions. This is all part of the process and in the end will make for a more versatile product. Allan..:D
 
Gasman, Allan, et all - yes, after getting home and looking at my tip up, the roll bar would totally be in the way for we taller people. Plus, as has been mentioned, the latch system would have to be re-done entirely, a not so easy venture.
 
PerfTech said:
Hello Colin
... Just today the 16th I have made arrangements for the use of a Rv-6 that is under construction to use to prototype the mod for the 6. If you can hold on just a week or so we will most likely have a complete package ready that will bolt right in. I will post photos here of all the pieces as soon as we make them. Thank You, Allan..:D
Click to expand...

That's great to hear. Of course I just painted my interior a week ago...haha

It will be worth drilling out some rivets and doing some repainting so I can install this mod. I suggest leaving the bracket that attaches the flap housing to the crossmember fairly generic. The -6 plans are very light in this area, so the variation could be drastic. Maybe two side plates that could be trimmed to fit and a front/top plate that rivets on with angle to form the box (instead of the nice welded unit you made for the 7/9).

I'm 6'4" and just got my first chance to sit in the plane with the seat pads installed (thin pads, but still add quite a bit). The first thought that went through my head was "Oh No". Without this mod I would have to fly without a seat-back pad or one so thin it wouldn't do much.

With this mods I could even add another attach point on the floor for the seat back and inch or two aft giving me even more legroom. 1" on the bottom and 4" at the top would really make a difference!

Thanks for putting this together.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I am 6'-4" with a 34" in seam, 220#. I modded my seat back bar during the build many years ago and the net result is essentially the same as Allan's mod.

My mod includes moving the last set of seat mount hinges back about 2". It also includes moving the flap motor to the far right end of the flap actuation bar (A new lever arm for the motor attachment was fabbed and welded at the end preserving the original geometry and the actuation bar wall thickness was doubled to add torsional strength. see here http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8/phplinks/index.php?&PID=35 for the old Mel Jordan flap mod)

I can not imagine flying without this mod as it lends considerable room to the cockpit. I do not get any of the short arm feel that Allan notes. Moving the flap actuation arm and motor frees up space between the seats and in the baggage area.

Some have questioned the reduction in cockpit structural integrity. I do not feel that it is a major issue but each must make this judgement on their own. There are no wing bending loads transmitted to the cockpit and the replacement seat back bar that I used (and the one Allan provides) is much stronger than the original. I have re-shaped and added some doublers to re-inforce the junction of the seat back bar with the original F622 bulkhead and it appears that Allan's boxed junction pieces perform a similar function (any FEA analysis done here Allan??)

I never thought that this would probably not be possible with a tip-up, but I suspect that the roll-over bar will be a significant impact threat if this mod is incorporated, not to mention the actuation issues. A plus for sliders, at least for big guys.

YMMV
 
Last edited:
Very curious how this comes out for tip up, as it may change my plans on which version to build.
 
Perfect Timing Allan

Allan I have the nose job and skid plate and if this kit is half as good as those I want one right away. So far you have designed and built products that have taken away all the fears I had about the nose gear issues and now your coming to my rescue with the only other complaint I had. With my seat all the way back I was still just to darn close to my instrument panel. As soon as you get the 6 kit ready please post it so I can get my order in. Thanks for your dedication to making the RV better. I can't wait to see what you come up with next.;)
 
PerfTech said:
Hello Colin
... Just today the 16th I have made arrangements for the use of a Rv-6 that is under construction to use to prototype the mod for the 6. If you can hold on just a week or so we will most likely have a complete package ready that will bolt right in. I will post photos here of all the pieces as soon as we make them. Thank You, Allan..:D
Click to expand...

Time to quit with the license plates and get with the RV-6 seatback mod!!! :D
 
Alan

You are sure trying to make my annual this winter last til spring. Already planning for your nose mod and nose wheel fix. I am 6' 4" with a 30" inseam. I fly my -6A slider with a 1" cushion on the bottom and a 1.5" on the back. Those things to hold the top of the seat forward are somewhere in my junk pile, might have to find one for Young Eagles. I have hit the canopy hard enough to see stars. I drive with my seat reclined a bunch.

How tall are you? I won't ask about the beer measurement.
 
Any updates?

Hey Allan how's that 6 seat-back mod coming. Not trying to bug you or anything (I really am) :rolleyes: but I'm at that stage when it would be extremely easy to make the modification before I close it up.
 
I'm guessing I wold have to cut into my Classic Aero Design luggage area side panels to make this mod work?

Erich
 
Planned Ship Date!!!!

erich weaver said:
I'm guessing I wold have to cut into my Classic Aero Design luggage area side panels to make this mod work?

Erich
Click to expand...

....All of your upholstery will fit without any modification. I was working on a few minor corrections in the drawing program this afternoon and will finish cutting the parts tomorrow. Monday we will do the bending and will start shipping Wednesday if all goes as planed. It looks as if the 6s are going to be more popular than the 7s & 9s. We have about 40 prepaid orders for the 6s and about half that for the others. I apologize for the delay, but we want the parts to be perfect. Thank you all for the patience and your support. Best, Allan...:D
 
The Prototype is done!!!!!

....We have finished the prototype "Almost a RV-14 Seat Mod" on the RV-6 slider and finished the programing to laser-cut all the pieces. I have put up a supplemental video slide show on our web site http://antisplataero.com/Videos.html that shows the basic installation on the RV-6, and touches on the important aspects that are different from the RV-7 & 9 models. Have a look and if you need more info just give us a call. We will start filling the back orders and shipping the RV-6 kits on Monday 10/08/12. Thanks, Allan...:D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.