nohoflyer

nohoflyer

Well Known Member
Patron
My engine (io 360) is mounted. When trying to screw in the oil filling tube won’t go into the engine due to the mount. I need about 5-10 degrees of an offset to get the tube in.

I would imagine others had this issue too.
 
nohoflyer said:
My engine (io 360) is mounted. When trying to screw in the oil filling tube won’t go into the engine due to the mount. I need about 5-10 degrees of an offset to get the tube in.

I would imagine others had this issue too.
Click to expand...
any pictures?
 
Your dipstick tube may be the wrong size..... too long.

If you need to shorten the dipstick, it is pressed into the threaded top. If you shorten it, drill & pin it to the top.
 
Can’t tell from your photo if the bottom spacer washers are installed between the engine and isolators.

Have you removed the red cap and actually tried to thread it in?

BTW, don’t install it until after the #3 cyl baffle is final installed.
 
Well something isn't right. That tube should just screw right in. If the angle isn't right to get it started, it won't be right after it's threaded in. Try it with the dipstick removed.

Just to clarify about the isolators. Each matched set has a hard one and a soft one. The hard ones go on the aft side on top and the forward side on the bottom. and yeah, you've gotta get the washers in the right spot.
 
Your signature says you're building an RV-7A, but your comment says you used the RV-14 plans. The theory on the two engine mounts is similar as far as the hardness of the mounts, but I'm wondering why the difference? Or did I misunderstand something?

I've had my dipstick in and out several times on my RV-7, and I don't recall it hitting the engine mount.
 
Obviously need a better photo of the isolator assembly, but it appears you have two soft mounts here. The upper aft isolator should be a hard one with the "crease" in the middle.

1780335255495.png
1780335439256.png
 
nohoflyer said:
My engine (io 360) is mounted. When trying to screw in the oil filling tube won’t go into the engine due to the mount. I need about 5-10 degrees of an offset to get the tube in.

I would imagine others had this issue too.
Click to expand...
I thought I had the same issue but the tube just wanted to screw in crooked/cross-threaded. It took a few attempts but once I got it straight it had enough clearance.
 
Can I please get a second look at my mounts? I thought they were installed correctly but now I’m having doubts. I’m back in the hanger and took pics.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2304.jpeg
    IMG_2304.jpeg
    539.1 KB · Views: 63
  • IMG_2305.jpeg
    IMG_2305.jpeg
    713.9 KB · Views: 67
  • IMG_2306.jpeg
    IMG_2306.jpeg
    699.3 KB · Views: 68
  • IMG_2303.jpeg
    IMG_2303.jpeg
    563.7 KB · Views: 70
Looks like you've got all four sets backwards. The isolator, or mount, with the ring in the center is the "hard" one. Take a good look at the diagram you posted last week:

1780855459011.png

The key is in Note 1: "weight of engine puts all hard mounts in compression". You have all the hard mounts in tension.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mel
hgerhardt said:
Looks like you've got all four sets backwards. The isolator, or mount, with the ring in the center is the "hard" one. Take a good look at the diagram you posted last week:

View attachment 119739

The key is in Note 1: "weight of engine puts all hard mounts in compression". You have all the hard mounts in tension.
Click to expand...
I agree

Note 1 is not always intuitive to everyone.

Bottom line is that the segment with the rib molded into the edge goes aft on the top, and fwd. on the bottom. And make sure the additional washer is installed on each side at the bottom, between the engine case and the fwd (ribbed) isolator.
 
nohoflyer said:
Jeez
Click to expand...
First, be happy that you posted about your dipstick not going in, as that uncovered the real issue... and, there's a silver lining here. Had you fitted the cowl with the mounts installed like that, you'd have to add fiberglass to one side of the fuselage interface and remove from the other, as right now, the prop flange is either too high or too low, depending on how the installed heights of the mounts in the wrong location affect that.
 
Paul's absolutely right, as painful as the learning experience may be. And just so you don't add to the learning experience, don't take shortcuts by leaving everything on the engine that you installed (e.g. hoses, baffles, accessories) after the engine was mounted. These have a way of getting in the way and can often get damaged when you're going in and out with the engine. Just bite the bullet and take them off so they don't get in the way or get damaged.

And be glad you ASKED about the orientation before it became much more difficult to correct. Hey, we've all been there in one way or another.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.