Dennis Madden

Dennis Madden

Active Member
Engine gurus,
I have an O-320 E2d on an RV-4. The paper work on the rebuild, while very detailed, fails to mention what oil pump went into it. (rebuilt 1991-93 or so.) I would like to be sure the A/D was complied with. Heres the question. What is the least invasive way to determine what is actually in the engine?
I've heard you can pull the right mag and look down in there. That true? What am I looking for? The engine has an inverted oil system installed, and I will be adding an oil filter anyway, so I will be taking SOME stuff apart back there anyway. I figure the fewer gaskets I have to break the better.
Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated. The easier to do, the better.
Thanks,
Dm
Ps
I'm replacing every consumable piece that I take off...IE rubber intake hoses, heater hose, valve cover gaskets etc etc..you name it. Am I nuts or do other people do that too?
 
Hi Dennis,
I had the same set up your are referring to (O-320/RV4). My comments reference the dynafocal mount (that's what I had) but I don't see where a conical would be much different. I was able to easily accomplish the task you refer to without removing the engine or exhaust from the mount. After removing the mags, oil screen/filter, and other 'accessories' I was able to remove the rear accy case and expose the oil pump to inspect the gears. You'll need to purchase new gaskets including a new sump gasket. The trick is to clean off the old (rear section) of the sump gasket and cut your new sump gasket to fit the exposed area of the sump. Do this by matching it to the bottom of the assy case. Use a little dab of permatex in the inside 'corner's of the sump/assy case when reinstalling the case to be sure it will not leak. The whole job only took a few hours from start to finish.

Good Luck,


Dennis Madden said:
Engine gurus,
I have an O-320 E2d on an RV-4. The paper work on the rebuild, while very detailed, fails to mention what oil pump went into it. (rebuilt 1991-93 or so.) I would like to be sure the A/D was complied with. Heres the question. What is the least invasive way to determine what is actually in the engine?
I've heard you can pull the right mag and look down in there. That true? What am I looking for? The engine has an inverted oil system installed, and I will be adding an oil filter anyway, so I will be taking SOME stuff apart back there anyway. I figure the fewer gaskets I have to break the better.
Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated. The easier to do, the better.
Thanks,
Dm
Ps
I'm replacing every consumable piece that I take off...IE rubber intake hoses, heater hose, valve cover gaskets etc etc..you name it. Am I nuts or do other people do that too?
Click to expand...
 
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oil pump

Thanks Rick.
When the hanger gets above 30 degrees, I'll go out there and give it a go. :-/
Can't seem to muster the interest when it's so cold. ;-) (so I keep buying parts, waiting for the sun to come out.) LOL.
Best,
DM
 
spinning shafts...

If I may be excused for my first post being a reply to someone elses post I can offer some info.
The Oil Pump Gears mod for AD 96-09-10 is easy to do, there being no black magic inside the accessory case. There are four gears in there maybe more depending on which model of engine and accessory options. New gaskets are needed for the Acc. case and sump.
I have accomplished the mod on an IO-320 B1A and the sump is a bit different but the internals are the same. I had the engine mounted crankshaft down and was able to work on it quite easily. It had an external oil filter, mech. fuel pump and vacuum pad drive. It's a good time to replace the vac. pump shaft seal and tach seal if you are using those.
Now to the business at hand. The OLD oil pump has a lower shaft that is held in by a cotter pin and is stationary. It can be seen by removing one of the mags and using a small mirror and light. Not very invasive but need to time the mag. If proceeding to change the oil pump you will have to time both mags.:rolleyes:
The NEW oil pump has a lower shaft that is integral with the gear and spins so there is no cotter pin, obviously. This means that you may want to incorporate the Lyc. Service Instruction #1341 Idler Shaft Lubrication. It involves drilling a hole to provide oil to lubricate the new spinning shaft in the accessory case. I believe it's on Lycomings site under Support, Publications, Service Instructions.
Also the new oil pump housing is one piece, the old one is a two piece housing and cover. I have a photo or two on my computer let me know and I can Email them.
Excuse the long winded reply just trying to recall everything involved in that job. Hope this was helpful to you and anyone else dealing with this AD.
Phil
 
rv6rick said:
Hi Dennis,
I had the same set up your are referring to (O-320/RV4). My comments reference the dynafocal mount (that's what I had) but I don't see where a conical would be much different. I was able to easily accomplish the task you refer to without removing the engine or exhaust from the mount. After removing the mags, oil screen/filter, and other 'accessories' I was able to remove the rear accy case and expose the oil pump to inspect the gears. You'll need to purchase new gaskets including a new sump gasket. The trick is to clean off the old (rear section) of the sump gasket and cut your new sump gasket to fit the exposed area of the sump. Do this by matching it to the bottom of the assy case. Use a little dab of permatex in the inside 'corner's of the sump/assy case when reinstalling the case to be sure it will not leak. The whole job only took a few hours from start to finish.

Good Luck,
Click to expand...


My accessory case had two dowel pins in the sump and two in engine case. That prevented me from doing what is described above. I had to drop the sump. Two other things to mention here. When I got in there, the AD had already been complied with although it was undocumented (I changed the gears anyway). Second, it was much easier to ensure that the fuel pump was properly installed with the sump off. For reference, I have a conical mount AEIO-320.
 
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