Clipper1

Active Member
I have a hose that connects to an elbow (90 degrees) then in to a manifold which has the oil sensor connected. The manifold end is weeping oil. I'm going to disassemble the connection, clean it and put it back together. My question is how much loctite do you use? just enough to fill the threads? Also, do you put the loctite on both ends of the elbow connection or just the one the connects into the manifold?

TIA!
Clip.
 
I have a hose that connects to an elbow (90 degrees) then in to a manifold which has the oil sensor connected. The manifold end is weeping oil. I'm going to disassemble the connection, clean it and put it back together. My question is how much loctite do you use? just enough to fill the threads? Also, do you put the loctite on both ends of the elbow connection or just the one the connects into the manifold?

TIA!
Clip.
I use Loctite 567 thread sealant. Just fill the threads on the male fitting making sure none gets on the end or in the hole, thread it in and tighten it. Use it on the male pipe thread manifold end of the fitting and sensor.
 
I have a hose that connects to an elbow (90 degrees) then in to a manifold which has the oil sensor connected. The manifold end is weeping oil. I'm going to disassemble the connection, clean it and put it back together. My question is how much loctite do you use? just enough to fill the threads? Also, do you put the loctite on both ends of the elbow connection or just the one the connects into the manifold?

TIA!
Clip.
The Loctite 565 or 567 goes on the end of the elbow that threads into the manifold only and not the other end that connects to the hose. A small quantity of sealant should be used to fill the male threads all the way around the fitting, but not on the first two threads, leave these dry. Tighten to finger tight and then 1.5 - 2 turns more to get it clocked correctly to meet the hose.
 
The Loctite 565 or 567 goes on the end of the elbow that threads into the manifold only and not the other end that connects to the hose. A small quantity of sealant should be used to fill the male threads all the way around the fitting, but not on the first two threads, leave these dry. Tighten to finger tight and then 1.5 - 2 turns more to get it clocked correctly to meet the hose.

Perfect. Thank you. Why does loctite not go on the end that connects to the hose? I'm interested to know why. Also, I assume that this end also gets FTTT then 2 more turns?
 
Just to expound a little bit on Paul's comment. Knowing the reasons behind something helps turn it from trivia into logic. Leaving the first two threads bare will help minimize the risk of any sealant extruding or later flowing into the process fluid. If it breaks loose, being compatible for the application -> it won't dissolve and could block a passage/starve a part of the system. I actually experienced this helping someone troubleshoot an issue. The sealant extruded through/blocked the snubber orifice.

So there's your seemingly trivial reason behind the bare threads that will possibly become knowledge, FWIW. Happy Friday.

Edit = I'm only talking about the pipe thread side. See following replies.
 
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Just to expound a little bit on Paul's comment. Knowing the reasons behind something helps turn it from trivia into logic. Leaving the first two threads bare will help minimize the risk of any sealant extruding or later flowing into the process fluid. If it breaks loose, being compatible for the application -> it won't dissolve and could block a passage/starve a part of the system. I actually experienced this helping someone troubleshoot an issue. The sealant extruded through/blocked the snubber orifice.

So there's your seemingly trivial reason behind the bare threads that will possibly become knowledge, FWIW. Happy Friday.
Sealant on the flare side doesnt allow the 2 opposing flares to merge. Sealant could eventually ooze out of the connection, leaving a small gap, creating a leak.
 
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Sealant is used on the NPT threads only and this prevent leaks. On the AN-4 side there is a mating surface that is supposed to be used without sealant.
However an old used fitting may need a small amount of sealant on the mating surface only.

Good luck
 
Sealant on the flare side doesnt allow the 2 opposing flares to merge. Sealant could eventually ooze out of the connection, leaving a small gap, creating a leak.
Flare side? My comments were only intended for the the pipe threads. If your flare connection is leaking, adding Loctite is not a diligent remedy approach. Never heard of nor would accept such application on the flare. and I doubt the vendor would approve their product for such an application.

Build safe
 
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Perfect. Thank you. Why does loctite not go on the end that connects to the hose? I'm interested to know why. Also, I assume that this end also gets FTTT then 2 more turns?
In a flare fitting (37 degree AN type), the seal is achieved by direct, precision contact on that 37 degree face. The threads of the B nut or nipple are not designed to be in the leak path of the system - they merely provide the mechanical force to clamp the sealing surfaces together. There is no sealant required, and even in cases of scratching on one of the faces, that can often be saved with “seal savers”. These are a sacrificial metallic “gasket” installed dry.

As for tightening without a torque wrench, “finger tight” will be at first contact of the seal surfaces. This will be immediately obvious as a significant rise in torque. Clean, well aligned fitting assemblies will spin all the way down by hand with almost zero effort. If you need to use a wrench early before the seal surface has made contact, something is wrong. Even finger tight, the hose assembly will not wobble on the line and will feel anchored - and it is. At this point, 2 full turns is WAY, WAY too much and would result in destruction of the connection. What you probably heard was “finger tight and 2 FLATS“ (of the B-nut hex).
 
Perfect. Thank you. Why does loctite not go on the end that connects to the hose? I'm interested to know why. Also, I assume that this end also gets FTTT then 2 more turns?
The reason that loctite doesn't go on the end that connects to the hose is as others have stated above. Re. tightening the coupling "B-nut" (AN818) on the hose/tube, it is torqued to 50-65 inch pounds for a -4 aluminum flare and 135-150 inch pounds if the -4 flare is steel. This reference info is in AC43.13-1B Chapter 9 Section 2.

The reference source for installing NPT fittings is Vans construction manual Section 5.