[mack55]

Apologize in advance if this has been covered before but I did search the forums.

Do it right or do it twice!

I hung my engine and realized that I have the older style accessory case with only 1 Oil Pressure port. In order to install the 45* restrictor fitting I have to remove the engine from the mount. Fortunately I haven't connected any wires or started on the baffling. The instructions state to have the fitting point 45* downward and 45* outward. Can someone please post a few pictures of how the Oil pressure supply hose is routed past the motor mount and Mag? I am going to be installing P-MAGS.

Also, I think that this is the only fitting that needs to be installed before the engine is installed, but if I am missing something else please let me know.

Thanks in advance.

 

[AlphaCharlieBravo]

Is this the line you're talking about? If you need additional pics, let me know.

Not all my wiring is adel clamped and tied off yet.

 

[mack55]

Is this the line you're talking about? If you need additional pics, let me know.

Not all my wiring is adel clamped and tied off yet.
View attachment 58776

That's the line! I just have to use the port to the right of yours. I am wondering if I can turn that fitting another 90-180* to have it exit and miss the motor mount.

 

[AlphaCharlieBravo]

That's the line! I just have to use the port to the right of yours. I am wondering if I can turn that fitting another 90-180* to have it exit and miss the motor mount.

I just looked at the other port and would turn it 180 and just have it go down enough to clear the engine mount. In other words keep it on a horizontal plane but just slightly pointing down.

Note: Line it up where you want it to end up before pulling engine from mount and mark both the fitting and engine case with a sharpie so you have a target when assembling.

 

[TS Flightlines]

I just looked at the other port and would turn it 180 and just have it go down enough to clear the engine mount. In other words keep it on a horizontal plane but just slightly pointing down.

Note: Line it up where you want it to end up before pulling engine from mount and mark both the fitting and engine case with a sharpie so you have a target when assembling.

This is one of those pesky little items that seems to be overlooked or not realized until the engine is on and all the other accessories are installed. Then you have to disassemble alot of stuff just to change a fitting. We hear about it alot. Especially with newer builders.

 

[lr172]

I used one of these and had no trouble installing it with the engine mounted. You then put whatever AN fitting into it that suits your need. I also had the older style case with the only port available being the one pointed at the mount with limited clearance.

 

[jrs14855]

I used one of these and had no trouble installing it with the engine mounted. You then put whatever AN fitting into it that suits your need. I also had the older style case with the only port available being the one pointed at the mount with limited clearance.

View attachment 58892

I used one of these and had no trouble installing it with the engine mounted. You then put whatever AN fitting into it that suits your need. I also had the older style case with the only port available being the one pointed at the mount with limited clearance.

View attachment 58892

Those fittings have been used for decades on Pitts aircraft. The S1S plans call for that fitting. They are automotive fittings called a "street elbow" . Pitts plans call for a rivet pressed into the end with a small hole to create restrictor.

 

[mack55]

I used one of these and had no trouble installing it with the engine mounted. You then put whatever AN fitting into it that suits your need. I also had the older style case with the only port available being the one pointed at the mount with limited clearance.

View attachment 58892

Thanks for this idea!

 

[mack55]

I just looked at the other port and would turn it 180 and just have it go down enough to clear the engine mount. In other words keep it on a horizontal plane but just slightly pointing down.

Note: Line it up where you want it to end up before pulling engine from mount and mark both the fitting and engine case with a sharpie so you have a target when assembling.

Thanks for the guidance. Going to try the street elbow first. Worst case well pull the 4 bolts and use your sharpie method!

 

[PaulvS]

Thanks for the guidance. Going to try the street elbow first. Worst case well pull the 4 bolts and use your sharpie method!

There was a street fitting and a straight nipple already on my used engine, ex-Piper. The straight nipple has a restrictor as part of the fitting, but there are also loose restrictor fittings available that insert into the hose end. I couldn't get the Van's 45 degree restrictor to thread into the street elbow with the engine on the mount, so I used the straight restricted fitting that was already on the engine. I haven't tried the loose inserts pictured below, but that might be easier than trying to modify a nipple with a restrictor orifice with confidence that it would never come out and slip back into the engine side.

 

[mack55]

I used one of these and had no trouble installing it with the engine mounted. You then put whatever AN fitting into it that suits your need. I also had the older style case with the only port available being the one pointed at the mount with limited clearance.

View attachment 58892

I went to Advance Aircraft Parts tonight. Bought a brass street elbow but I couldn't get it to clear the mount once you began to tighten. Any links you can share on the one you bought? Much appreciated. I like this idea since its serviceable down the road.

 

[Mark Curley]

I had to change my fitting to get a different angle. Was able to do it by removing the top two mounts and loosening the bottom two but not removing them. Lowered the engine crane to let the engine "sag" enough to get in there, then back up to re-install the top mounts.

BTW, I made my restrictors by using a -3 rivet with a small hole drilled through.

 

[lr172]

I used one of these and had no trouble installing it with the engine mounted. You then put whatever AN fitting into it that suits your need. I also had the older style case with the only port available being the one pointed at the mount with limited clearance.

View attachment 58892

I went to Advance Aircraft Parts tonight. Bought a brass street elbow but I couldn't get it to clear the mount once you began to tighten. Any links you can share on the one you bought? Much appreciated. I like this idea since its serviceable down the road.

go to mcmaster carr. available there in brass or SS. These are NOT street elbows. street elbows are a pluming term that simply mean they are male on one side and female on the other and the plumbing standard is female female, hence the unique term. Not sure the official name of the fitting I posted but it is a special one designed for tight clearances.

Larry

 

[TimR]

I"ve got a variation on this problem. I installed, before mounting the engine, a regular, non-restrictor 45 degree AN fitting. Now that the engine is mounted, I'm stuck. I'd REALLY rather not remove the engine.

So, here's what's probably a dumb question. Could the restrictor fitting be mounted at the tranducer mount? In other words, at the other end of the line between the engine and the transducer.

Another fix I've been thinking about, I made a very short aluminum line with compression fittings at each end; kind of an "extension" that would attach to the offending AN fitting on the engine. I've ordered some fittings that would allow me to then screw in the restrictor to this extension, then I'd run the line to the transducer. Will this work? Or, does the restrictor have to be attached on the engine?

 

[Freemasm]

Controversial answer but “yes”, you can. Your risk could up infinitesimally. I know of at least one certified aircraft where the snubber is on the firewall. Another where it is on tge analog instrument, proper in the cockpit.

A blown sense line in this configuration could go undetected and could empty your engine oil pretty quickly.

I’d consider the Pitts approach. In any case, get a custom made sense line from Tom/TS Flightines which are proof tested to levels far above operating pressure and no calendar life restrictions. Then, I’d never think about it again other than condition inspections. My $0.02

 

[PaulvS]

I"ve got a variation on this problem. I installed, before mounting the engine, a regular, non-restrictor 45 degree AN fitting. Now that the engine is mounted, I'm stuck. I'd REALLY rather not remove the engine.

So, here's what's probably a dumb question. Could the restrictor fitting be mounted at the tranducer mount? In other words, at the other end of the line between the engine and the transducer.

Another fix I've been thinking about, I made a very short aluminum line with compression fittings at each end; kind of an "extension" that would attach to the offending AN fitting on the engine. I've ordered some fittings that would allow me to then screw in the restrictor to this extension, then I'd run the line to the transducer. Will this work? Or, does the restrictor have to be attached on the engine?

I don't think a rigid tube extension on the engine is a good idea, because it will crack and fail from the vibration and relative movement.

Personally, I would bite the bullet and loosen the engine mounts enough to fit the restrictor to the engine.

I noticed these hose end restrictor inserts but haven't tried them.

Hose End Restrictor 1mm I.D.

The official website of Australia's only Performance Hose Fitting Manufacturer!

speedflow.com.au

 

[TS Flightlines]

I don't think a rigid tube extension on the engine is a good idea, because it will crack and fail from the vibration and relative movement.

Personally, I would bite the bullet and loosen the engine mounts enough to fit the restrictor to the engine.

I noticed these hose end restrictor inserts but haven't tried them.

Hose End Restrictor 1mm I.D.

The official website of Australia's only Performance Hose Fitting Manufacturer!

speedflow.com.au

I would NOT use and aluminum tube on the engine. Here is another option for you---use the port on the side with a straight restrictor fitting, use a 90* hose end on the hose.
But YES you can put the restrictor at the sender manifold. With teflon hose assemblies, the chance you are going to "blow one" is extremely remote unless it rubs on something. We use the restrictors now to dampen the pressure pulses for the pretty sensitve sendors, NOT because 'if the hose were to blow it would slow down the amount of oil lost' . If you were using a 1960s Mil H5593 hose (like Aeroquip 306) with resuable hose ends, they had a tendency to weather crack, become stiff, and dues to the lack of replacement, sometimes fail. LOL, I still some of this on planes and just shake my head. H5593 is rated at 300 psi, and has only a nylone reinforment braid over a rubber liner, with a rubber cover. So heat cycles, ozone, fluids, etc, do affect it. They were used in -2 applications for oil, fuel and manifold pressure and at the time was really the only solution. With teflon hose, you get a non life limited hose, and and use a -2 hose end--Yes we have them specifically for this reason. BTW---for some of you 'very experienced' A&Ps that used to build hose assemblies, ever seen or broken a -2 Aluminum reusable stem? Somewhere, someone has. Ours are 304 stainless. Can even make them in bent tube versions, for primer lines.
Tom