Must be tied. Look very carefully at the crankcase web adjacent to the tube, next to the engine mount boss, should be a hole sized just right for the wire.
I can't tell from you photo whether you have a muti-part filler tube but if you do, you need another safety wire that runs from the top of the tube to the bottom. It goes around the tube a few times on the way from top to bottom.
Amen. I have one of the billet oil filler necks Superior was putting on their XP-360's at the build school. I'm pretty sure they actually put them on all of their engines (and maybe still do).... Anyhoo.... mine did work it's way a bit loose, even with the safety wire. And it's a tight fit down there next to the cylinders.
Any recommendations how to tighten it back up? This billet version doesn't have the 'nut' shape high on the filler neck near the top like the plastic Lycoming filler necks.
Amen. I have one of the billet oil filler necks Superior was putting on their XP-360's at the build school. I'm pretty sure they actually put them on all of their engines (and maybe still do).... Anyhoo.... mine did work it's way a bit loose, even with the safety wire. And it's a tight fit down there next to the cylinders.
Any recommendations how to tighten it back up? This billet version doesn't have the 'nut' shape high on the filler neck near the top like the plastic Lycoming filler necks.
Long time no see... I used a crows foot on a 3/8" extension with a 3/8" drive ratchet to lock mine down then used a needle nose to put a twist in the tie wire.
I cleaned up the filler, gasket, and case with solvent (mineral spirits works well) and "lubricated" the gasket with some red RTV. Screwed it back in, let it set, and safetied it onto the case web, and no problems since. Yes, it is difficult to impossible to safety this tight.
If the hole in the tube was at 5:00 then the hole that you wire to is at the 11:00 position in the photo. You can just see it.
Install a dry gasket and tighten hand tight and then just a little more with a wrench. Wire it tight. At your next inspection, repeat the procedure and then it will stay put.
Look at the "O" ring at the top of your dip stick. If it is flat, replace it with a new one. when you screw in the dip stick, only go 1/8 turn past contact. This will help keep from twisting loose the tube at the base.
ps.... don't wire from the hole that you see on the tube in the foto, wire from the one on the back side in a cw direction.
One other suggestion is to throw away the paper gasket and replace it with a round silicone or buna-n rubber gasket. I actually cut mine from a piece of 1/8" buna-n rubber. Lots of stories of the paper gasket leaking. The rubber gives some compressibility so it's not as sensitive to a slight relaxing of pressure. You could also use the bolt as mentioned above to safety the filler tube if you don't have a hole in the case, just run the wire around the tube to ensure it maintains tension to resist rotation in the counter-clockwise direction.
One other suggestion is to throw away the paper gasket and replace it with a round silicone or buna-n rubber gasket. I actually cut mine from a piece of 1/8" buna-n rubber. Lots of stories of the paper gasket leaking. The rubber gives some compressibility so it's not as sensitive to a slight relaxing of pressure. You could also use the bolt as mentioned above to safety the filler tube if you don't have a hole in the case, just run the wire around the tube to ensure it maintains tension to resist rotation in the counter-clockwise direction.
