bubba

Member
I am looking for some good pictures on the installing of oil cooler on a RV8
I0-360.

The pictures that I am seeing shows reinforced material to baffles, but some are reporting baffle cracks and separations. I am trying to avoid.

please forward pictures to [email protected]

Thank you,
Bubba
 
bubba you could always go with a firewall mounted oil cooler like they do on the 10's. do a search and you can find multiple results.
 
Here's what I did. Big disclaimer - I only have 30 hours on the airplane so I have no idea if this will last.

I did use what I saw on other folks' machines, mostly from this forum.
Link to my page:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=owens&project=236&category=5659&log=116387&row=79

I like the idea of mounting the cooler to the firewall, but I used up too much realstate with my inverted oil system to make that practical.
Good luck!

Support arm - some say that cylinder expansion make these supports a bad idea - I did it anyway.
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Lots of doublers to spread the load.
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Extra aluminum angles
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A Friend's -8

Here is how a friend of mine in Venice, Fl handled the baffle mounted cooler on his -8. It is a very well constructed machine and maybe overkill but no cracks on his after 1 1/2 years ...don't know the hours but he flies a lot (or my -6 using a variation of his build ...not many hours here, still in Phase 1)

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Plenum?

Another advantage of having a plenum is it supports the oil cooler structure in that area. Don't know if you are considering that or not? Dave
 
Speaking of an oil cooler plenum...


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Noteworthy in this picture is the mount "ear" on the rear bolt on the cylinder. This is made of steel and is one of the primary load supports for the whole cooler. The remainder of the baffle (outboard portion) is very light aluminum, as it only has to contain the air and support the rubber seal.

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I made a plug, then a mold, then cranked out the part in 8 plies of 6oz BID glass. You will note that the air opening is only above the cylinder, retaining the baffle. This not only reduces radiant and convective heat transfer to the cooler, it also keeps the air going past the fins on the head. I think this works out better for the cylinder, as this is my coolest one of the 4. The oil temps are also no problem, but the results have been matched by other's installations.

The picture of the brace shows the replacement of the way too heavy, emergency repair at OSH this year following the failure of an aluminum strap. The new (red) one is a weldment of .250 dia. 4130 tube. Much lighter, much cleaner.
 
If there is room, my 8 will have a remote mounted cooler connected to a 4" scat tube off of #4 baffle with a butter fly shut off valve.

That system worked very well in the 7A. The idea comes from the 10 cooler set up.