Which oil additive do you use??

  • Lycoming LW-16702

    Votes: 4 4.0%
  • Avblend

    Votes: 9 8.9%
  • Camguard

    Votes: 31 30.7%
  • None, my oil has the additive already in it---my oil is_______

    Votes: 32 31.7%
  • Dont need no stinkin additive.

    Votes: 25 24.8%

  • Total voters
    101

Mike S

Senior Curmudgeon
O.K., VAF brain trust, my engine seems to be pretty well broken in, so I guess it is time to think about using an additive with my next oil change.

But, the cost is :eek: If I use the recommended two cans of Lycoming additive, it will cost more per change than the oil itself:confused:

What is the consensus here???

Thanks in advance.
 
Last edited:
I use Camguard. Even if their claims are not valid (hopefully not the case), it is a small price. Currently I am using Aeroshell 100W.
 
Marvel Mystery Oil

I have been using Marvel since the first hour. I add 4 ounces every oil change. (25 hour oil changes, 50 hour filter change). Also add 8 ounces in each tank every other fill up.

Does it work? Don't know but it makes me feel better. Never had an injector problem and my Blackstone Labs oil analysis reports show a oil trends normally seen in engines with hundreds less hours.

Oil is Philips XC.
 
I have been using Marvel since the first hour. I add 4 ounces every oil change. (25 hour oil changes, 50 hour filter change). Also add 8 ounces in each tank every other fill up.

Does it work? Don't know but it makes me feel better. Never had an injector problem and my Blackstone Labs oil analysis reports show a oil trends normally seen in engines with hundreds less hours.

Oil is Philips XC.

MMO for me too! Oil during the change, and 8 oz in the fuel.
 
i guess mmo should of been a choice in the poll judging by the comments. been using it in the oil and fuel for a long time. i did vote for avblend because i have used it before mmo in the rv and use it in the r-44 now.

one thing i do know is that the old atomic four gas engine that was in my old sailboat needed mmo to keep the valves from sticking. that stuff really works and the price is right. fuel and oil additive. i have some bonanza owners here who fly a lot and use mmo religiously. thats my 2 cents. first engine went 3,150 hrs on that stuff.

att2197443.gif

img1098mf.jpg
 
Last edited:
MMO for anti-scuff?

First of all, wanted to say I use MMO in my fuel as well.... but am curious as to why MMO would be used as as an "anti-scuff" agent (whatever that means) in the oil rather than the additive in A/S 15-50 or Exxon Elite or Avblend. I believe MMO is basically a super lightweight oil with a detergent in it (stoddard or equivalent) to keep things clean in the engine, and help remove deposits when used in the fuel. If something were to be added as an "anti-scuff" agent in the oil, wouldn't something like STP Oil treatment be better as it's thick as honey? I also notice lots of folks using the Phillips XC oil with no additive in their lycomings.. does it not really matter that much?
 
Using Aeroshell 100W and voted None.

But, will start using Camguard on my next oil change due to the article I read yesterday(Sport Aviation) promoting the benefits of Camguard vs the others.


Update: Went to my FBO today to buy a quart CamGuard... $59.95/pint. Checked ACS $24.25/pint, a little better but YIKES!!!
 
Last edited:
O.K., VAF brain trust, my engine seems to be pretty well broken in, so I guess it is time to think about using an additive with my next oil change.

But, the cost is :eek: If I use the recommended two cans of Lycoming additive, it will cost more per change than the oil itself:confused:

What is the consensus here???

Thanks in advance.

One can of Avblend will do. (or maybe it is 2 with the 6 cylinder engines)

I've been using the Avblend for years. What the heck, like the MMO guys, you've got to believe in something. :)

Years ago, while having an O360 overhauled at Blue Print in Chicago, I had a tour of Avblend's shop which shared the same building. I came away a believer. Their product penetrates metal surfaces like nothing else and provides cold, dry start protection. At least that's the line which the FAA bought and consequently issued approval of it in aircraft engines. In fact, Blue Print offered a warrantee of 500 hours and 3 years if I used the stuff which was quite a bit better than Lycoming's warrantee at the time.

Does it work? I don't know. All I can say, my engines have run well without any internal issues.

Like many products marketed without much science to back up claims, positive testimonials are used and there are plenty of them on all this stuff. No question, people are having success using it.

Sort of like buying health supplements - some of it really does work. :)
 
Using Aeroshell 100W and voted None.

But, will start using Camguard on my next oil change due to the article I read yesterday(Sport Aviation) promoting the benefits of Camguard vs the others.

Mike Busch is a smart guy for sure. But his endorsement of Camguard is a testimonial like all the rest. There's no published science to back up any of these products.

To even the testimonial war here are a few from the internet on Avblend -

Mike S. from Kissimmee, Fl.
Posted By: Anonymous
Location:
Comments:
I own a 980 Piper Archer and found that the compression had dropped to below 60# in two of the cylinders. I was considering the cost of replacing the cylinders when I came upon your product. After using it for approximately 6 months I found that the compression had gone up dramatically in those cylinders to a safe level negating the need for replacement.

An AvShop Customer from Long Lake, MN
Posted By: Anonymous
Location:
Comments:
It's superior to ALL friction fighters I have used. Typical fuel consumption dropped by about .2 gph or better, high altitude operating temperatures dropped just under 10 degrees centigrade in cruise, in my Arrow II, with the IO-360-C1C when I used it religiously. On teardown, negligible valve stem wear and minimal engine wear throughout at TBO. In short, if you're not running it now, you are wearing your power plant out for no good reason. Well worth the price over and over and over again.

Dave M. from Tucson, AZ.
Posted By: Anonymous
Location:
Comments:
So, who can really tell for sure if this goo really works? All I can say is that my O-320D seems to spin-up a bit easier when it's cold. My A&P believes that it will HELP prevent build-up on my valve stems, and he should know, he has been around aircraft engines for 50 years...so I USE IT!


Like I said, no science, just testimonials. :)
 
Hilton Hyperlube

The late Dave Brofey ran a repair shop and aircraft rental @ Apex WA.
He strongly believed in adding Hilton Hyperlube to Aeroshell 80W, and ran a small fleet of Cessna 172 with Continental O-300 past TBO (1800) to 2600+ hours. He had lots of 'as removed' parts to confirm his views.
He told me that he would go longer, but the renters were reluctant to fly when the TBO got beyond 2600 Hrs.
I use it in my car, tractor, etc. ;)
I know from personal experience that MMO is used in marine diesel engines to free up stuck exhaust valves. We would shut the engine down, remove the valve cover of the effected cylinder and squirt MMO on the exhaust valve and hit it with a soft mallet until free.
I believe it helps to prevent exhaust valve sticking (in small Continentals) when added to oil and fuel in modest quantities.
My friend with an original RC-3 Seabee was told (by an older IA) to use MMO in the oil to keep the lifters free.
Mostly, these products do no harm, and probably do help.
 
Like I said, no science, just testimonials. :)

So true! No science at all, just an unsupported belief structure bordering on (dare I say it?) religion in some. I am interested in the "I ran my ______ engine beyond TBO with no issues, using _____additive" sort of statement. I'm happy for you, but I ran several engines well past TBO on straight Shell 100W. I will be happy to listen when there is some real scientific protocol applied.

Don't get me started on Marvel Mystery Oil. I will say this, a good friend of mine is a Phd chemist that worked for a major oil company and a serious "car guy," When asked about Marvel, his statement was "Snake oil, read the MSDS, it is naphthenic hydrocarbons, a relative stable oil that is used mainly in ink, wood preservative, and pesticides, combined with some "mineral spirits" (paint thinner) plus some coloring and perfume.

Here is the MSDS: http://tinyurl.com/3w8jzdy

John Clark ATP, CFI
FAAST Team Representative
EAA Flight Advisor
RV8 N18U "Sunshine"
KSBA
 
I was listening to a "Click and Clack" podcast the other day while walking the dogs (too noisy in the shop on Saturday mornings to really enjoy it), and they were stating their (humorous?) belief that ALL gasoline is the same, with all of the various additives in every gallon. The oil companies simply agree that "Company A" will hype additives 1,5, and 7...while "Company B" will hype 2,4, and 12....and so forth - they all get credit for innovation, and all benefit from modern chemistry. Conspiracy theory, I know...but maybe the same is true of our engine oil? Let's face it, if any of the major brands was contributing to the early failure of airplane engines, we'd all know it by now, and they'd be off the market.

I'm with John on the value of "Testimonials"...I try never to step on a crack in the sidewalk, and my mother has never broken her back, so I guess it is my careful steps that has kept her upright...correct?

I used to pour MMO in our old Cub engine on the other hand, because my partner/old mechanic said it would help, so we did. Not sure what it helped, but it probably did no harm.... ;)

Paul
 
Last edited:
So true! No science at all, just an unsupported belief structure bordering on (dare I say it?) religion in some. I am interested in the "I ran my ______ engine beyond TBO with no issues, using _____additive" sort of statement. I'm happy for you, but I ran several engines well past TBO on straight Shell 100W. I will be happy to listen when there is some real scientific protocol applied.

John Clark ATP, CFI
FAAST Team Representative
EAA Flight Advisor
RV8 N18U "Sunshine"
KSBA

2300 hours on the 0320 in my Bucker, never seen an additive, never had a top, still running strong. I might buy into an additive if you dont run your engine on a monthly basis, but if you don't do that, you are most likely losing time on that engine regardless.