Just talked to a guy last weekend who flew into my local airport in a -6 with a 0-320 and fixed pitch Sensenich. He thought that it was a great combination. The -7 should be basically the same. So long as you are not concerned about the extra top-end speed, I would think it would be great choice. To be sure, you're not going to go quite as fast, or climb quite as fast, but you'll still go faster and climb faster than the vast majority of comparable production planes. At the same time, you might be able to find an 0-360 for the same price. Good luck.
 
W&B

Terry Wendling said:
No one ever talks much about the 0-320 in an RV-7. Has anyone tried it and what is the performance like?
Wonderful combo.

Performance will be as Van advertises: http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/rv-7per.htm


Just be aware if you add a light weight wood prop you might get into an aft CG condition. Not a big deal, but it's something to think about. To help a Sensenich metal prop would be nice. I also happen to think in my opinion the Sensenich is the best fixed prop you can buy in every way. Also if you buy a used engine with a good prestolite starter (the original heavy one), consider not buying a fancy new $400 light weight starter. The extra few pounds way out on the nose will help. If you go with a Hartzell that will only improve the situation. I had a O320/Hartzell on my RV-4 and it was a great combo.


Well how bad is the W&B?

Do some W&B calcs to get a feel for this. I did some quick calcs before and the only time it's an issue, is with two people AND baggage.

The structural limit of the baggage area is 100 lbs. If you have a real light engine/prop combo, you'll be limited to say 50lbs aft baggage with a passenger, to stay with-in CG limits. Solo may not be an issue. A passenger shifts the CG aft; solo you may be able to carry near the full 100 lbs in the baggage area. Two up probably about 60 lbs in the baggage area.

If you must use a wood prop and don't want to limit the baggage too much you can consider a balast lead weight on the engine case somewhere as far forward as possible. However it makes more sense using a heavy starter and alternator first. It does not take much weight.

In my old RV a RV-4, I had soft luggage, duffel bags for light bulky stuff, which I stored under the passenger legs and on my sides on the floor. For a long cross country, two up I needed room for gear. Same with the RV-7, you can put some cargo under the legs on the floor, but strap them down so it does not interfere with the rudder pedals.

The RV-7 can take the IO360 (200HP) angle valve and metal constant speed prop, which is on the heavy end of prop/engine combos, so going with a much lighter 320 and wood prop is a significant differnce. The RV-4 and RV-6 was better with the 320 since it was made for that engine or a 360 (180HP) max.

Also be aware (this applies to all RV-7's), if you put lots of fancy external paint on the aft part of the plane or internally prime every square inch of the inside structure, you'll add to the aft CG issue. There is a lot of area to paint on the back half of the plane. Anything you add back there is adding to aft CG. Also all in one wing nav lights is a good idea, verses a rudder nav light. Again it's just something to think about. Performance wise you will have a super nice, light and good performing plane with a O320, with may be a little baggage limitation when dual.

Not suggesting but moving the engine out a inch or so and using the longer cowl would solve the CG issue. Ever fly a Piper Comanche, PA-24 single engine retract? That one airframe took engines ranging from the O360 (180HP), O540 (250HP) and IO720 (400HP). They just moved the engine back and forth on the engine mount. The O360 was hanging a mile away from the firewall.
 
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0-320

I have an O-320 with a sensenich contstant speed prop in my 7A and my performance matches close to the O-360 fixed pitch. I can out climb the fixed pitch but they are a little faster in cruise. My final weight with paint and complete interior with leather seats was 1091 and my cg has never been a problem. If you are looking at a used engine and its a good deal the O-320 makes a lot of sense. If you are going new I would look at the new IO-340 being offered.
 
Considering a -320 series engine in an RV almost seems to be a taboo for some reason. I have a 160-hp O-320 w/ CS prop on my RV-8, and am generally very satisfied - and not just because it cost less than my prop! W&B is not an issue. Actually, regarding the -8, it is a much better arrangement allowing more flexibility of loading and no aft battery installation.

Performance: Before a recent top overhaul about the best speed I actually had measured closely was 203 mph in the Sun 100 a couple of years ago. Obviously, that was at tree-top height + 5' and 90F/90%RH. I'm anxious to see what it will do after this recent top overhaul.

Practical comparison: A good friend of mine has a very nice -6A with a new O-360 and Sensenich FP prop. Before TOH, I had him by about 1-2 knots.

Price: In the recent past, on average you couldn't touch a -360 series engine for anything close to what you could get a -320 series. Maybe that's different now, but I doubt it. Lots more -320 series engines out there on 172's and Cherokees!

If you have some lattitude but are locked in on the -320, consider an IO-320 that has been hopped up. I hear it's relatively easy to squeeze 170 and even up to 180-hp out of a -320 series if properly configured.

Myself, I plan to use a O/IO-540 in my next RV-8 project beginning in about 5 years. Assuming Algore will allow the little people to continue buying fuel for these evil, "greenhouse gas" producing internal combustion engines!
 
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I am installing an O-320, and in addition to Peter, have talked to several others who have completed planes the same way.

My goal was to match or improve on the performance of the Mooney I used to rent (pre-citabria days) the mooney I rented could flight plan on 160kts at 11 gph pretty reliably with me and a co-pilot. It seems that with an O-320, 165KTS at 8 or less gph should be possible.

I have also focused on reducing drag where I can, like internal rudder stops, but I have used an external comm antenna. I am using the Sam James cowl, and plenum which looks to fit a bit easaier, because the engine mount places the engine nearly 2 inches further forward. I am also using a constant speed prop, but in my case I am using the WW 151, they will give you an extended version for no extra cost to make the James cowl fit easier.

I have also focused on keeping it light. My panel has only AS, ALT, Comm, TXPDR, Fuel, EIS, and a single axis ADI pilot with my existing 196.

Since the 151 is less than 30lbs, I am also using an old starter. MZ4222, which is fairly heavy, but also uses the fewest cranking amps, and as a collateral benefit is CHEAP, bought a used/rebuilt yellow tagged prestolite for $100.

O-320's are comming down in price on the used market, as others go for HP. I bought a first run engine, had the local machine shop check it out and rebuild the lower end. I installed 4 Lycon cylinders with forged (9-1) pistons, all of which were balanced in terms of weight and flow. In addition to a new carb, and new mags (slick trade in deal) I have less than $12K in the engine.

My only hesitance in all this is the starter. My injected Citabria started out with a traditional starter. I installed the sky-tec HT Inline starter. It was good for clearing a flooded engine, BUT it would also spin the engine fast enough to overcome the impulse coupling, and fire the non impulse mag. So, I made sure to keep the right mag off when starting, and it would still fire on impulse only after I releasesd the started and the egine began to spin slower.

But, with a carbed engine and impulse mag, the slower turning should be fine.

As to the sensenich prop, several who have tried them on an O-320 recomend against it strongly. You can NEVER exceed 2600 rpm with that prop on an O-320. This means that when you cruise, you have a partially closed throttle, giving lower power, AND lower efficiency.

If I had to do it over, I may have used a hartzell, and the James shorty cowl. But only time will tell.

I can tell you from talking to others, and my experience flying an IO-320 in my citabria, these are very smooth engines, general consensus seems to be that the shorter stroke, as compared to a 360 makes them a little smoother. I know that with regular maintenance, my 320 was very reliable. When I sold it there were 1800 hrs since overhaul, and it burned only on quart in 11hrs, compressions were within new spec. This engine spent about 20% of its time doing landing practice and another 15% in acro work, as it was a training plane before I bought it. I could easily run it at 5.5 gph for evening cruises at 2250, lean to rough and nudge it back in. In this setting it was glass smooth. And in the Citabria, you felt every rumble.

If you are going to buy new, I bet the $$$ just do not work out, the price to the more powerful engine is too close. But, if you find a good deal used, and work with your local clubs there is some cost savings to be had.

My hope is that with the cowl, and light weight, I will be able to close the gap in terms of cruise, somewhat closer to the 360 crowd. Climb with a CS prop is pretty darn good anyway. But in any case, I should be able to meet my goals with this engine.

Goals: 1st: Light, 2nd: CHEAP, 3rd: cheap to operate, 4th: meet performance goals.

I also hope to finish this plane for less than $55,000, and am on target to do so, even with a nice interior and many new parts. Went slow build, and looked for deals.
 
Aft CG

And there are other ways around the aft cg issue. I have a 17-18 lb Catto on my plane. I was doing some W&B calculations and found that I'd have more utility if I put more weight up front.

You can add a heavy prop spacer (got a 22 lb one from Saber Mfg)... you can add one of those Landoll weights that go on the starter ring or add one of his harmonic dampeners. And when building keep everything forward of the CG. I even drew where the CG is on the side of my plane for immediate visual reference.

The 40 lb+ Sensenich would really help in this situation. Plus top speed would be improved slightly.
 
Terry,

My RV-6 flew with an FP Sensenich and a O-320 for a couple of years before I put in a 180hp C/S setup.

It flew just fine, and in some aspects was more *balanced*. The difficulty I had was less performance during high altitude takeoffs in the Idaho backcountry and the normal formation station-keeping holding issues when all else around you are 180hp C/S <g>.

If that's what you want I'm sure you'll be perfectly happy with the results.

B,
D
 
Hey Terry! Nice to see you here! You'll get a lot better response on this question here than I could give you when we chatted about this the other day! Great info so far, and I'm looking forward to more! :cool:
 
As to conical mount, Mine is, and I will report how it feels. That being said my citabria, with non lord mounts and a conical 320 was smoother at cruise than many dynafocal 360's I flew. Others have had similar experience.

That being said, I did spring for the lord mounts, and have paid particular attention to balance, including rods, and crank, pistons and flow matching. Combined with a lightweight composite prop, I am hoping to be okay.

As much sound deadoning as people install in RV's, I wonder if the conical mount is really an issue. In my case it was worth the cost savings to me and so I went with the available used engine.
 
I have a 7 with a 0-320 with a sensenich prop I have 100 hours on it curently painting it will climb out at about 1800 fpm and will cruise easy at 180 - 190 mph at gross weight about 1500 fpm and 175 mph to 180 mph I usually climb and find a tail wind if i can to most fuel burn I have had is 9gph on a long cross coutry non stop from southern maine to northern maine full throttle 2500 rpm I have had heavy people with me and we still go fast and climb fast

For me it was cost I paid $3500 buck for the engine and I only had to install new mags all else checks out fine If I would have had to buy new or reman I would have bought a 180 hp I have no complaints as far as resale I have less in it so I can ask less if I would ever sell it

CG is an issue but not a problem just be aware of it

KEn in maine and can't waint to be done painting
 
No slow RVs........

There are no slow RVs unless they're very heavy or out of rig and lousy build/no fairings. a 150 still makes for a fast RV any day of the week. Just compare the physical size and gross weight of many other spam-cans with the same engine to the RVs. ;)