SeanB

SeanB

Well Known Member
I'm trying to find a single leg or corner nutplate that is countersunk for a -06screw. No luck so far. Anyone know of such an item and where to buy?

Thanks,
 
Thanks, guys. Checked with GAHCO earlier...no luck. Will give B&B a call tomorrow.
 
Aircraft Spruve sells them

I have bought and used them.They are on page 72 of the 2011-2012 catalog. Like many things they have several names (even the old mil specs gave them different names). In this case Anchor nut, Dimpled, standard, single leg and corner.

Bob Axsom
 
rocketbob said:
If you cant find what you want, put a countersunk shim in between the nutplate and the skin.
Click to expand...

I'm trying to visualize this, without success.......:confused: Any photos, or a longer description in 6th grade English for guys like me?? :rolleyes:
 
AC 43.13-1B don't leave home without it!

SeanB said:
I'm trying to find a single leg or corner nutplate that is countersunk for a -06screw. No luck so far. Anyone know of such an item and where to buy?

Thanks,
Click to expand...

Sean,
Check out chapter 7 of FAA AC 43.13-1B. You can download this "must have" document from the FAA web site. It's over 400 pages, so they break it down into chapters for easier downloading. Chapter 7 details info on aircraft hardware, including nut plates [pages 7-63 through 7-68]. The info you want is on page 7-65. FYI, you will note that there are 2 part numbers shown with each photo. The numbers differ only in the last digit. Numbers ending in an odd number are passivated steel [same as what comes in your kit] Changing that last digit to the next higher "even" number, specifies the same part, but either cadmium plated or made of stainless steel [stainless nut plates are handy to use in your instrument panel, as they are non magnetic]
Single leg and corner nut plates come in flat, countersink, "normal leg" and "mini leg" sizes.

Use the link below to download chapter 7 and the other chapters of this very useful document.

http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulator...99C827DB9BAAC81B86256B4500596C4E?OpenDocument

I have used all of the vendors mentioned above to buy nut plates
Wicks Aircraft also carries them. An A&P friend turned me on to M&M Aerospace. They carry all the "oddball" hardware you can not find elsewhere.
They are now a division of B/E Aerospace. See

http://www.mmaero.com/cm/contact/contact.cfm

Charlie
PS While Vans uses the archaic AN [army/navy] part numbers, the rest of the world has moved on to the current MS [military spec] numbering system. It's much easier to get what you want from a vendor, IF you know the proper MS part number for the nut plate in question.
 
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PCHunt said:
I'm trying to visualize this, without success.......:confused: Any photos, or a longer description in 6th grade English for guys like me?? :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Pete,
You simply fabricate a piece of aluminum [2024-T3 or 6061-T6] of a thickness which will allow you to countersink into the skin/spacer so as not to have the countersink contact the center hole of the standard nut plate. Cut the spacer slightly larger [length & width] than the nut plate. Place the spacer between the nut plate and the skin or structure. Back drill the rivet holes from the nut plate, through both the spacer and the skin. Pilot back drill the screw hole through both the spacer and the skin. You can now cleco the spacer to the skin and countersink for the needed flush screw [and rivet holes if needed]. After de-burring and any desired corrosion control steps, simply rivet the nut plate/spacer pieces to the skin or structure.
I have several photos, but they do not give enough detail to be of use. I took them with an old disposable camera.
It's a bit more work, but useful when you don't want to stop progress on your project to wait for hardware to arrive.
Charlie
 
B&B

Just got some from B&B. Got both corner and single lug.

Call them. The web site isn't accurate.
 
PCHunt said:
I'm trying to visualize this, without success.......:confused: Any photos, or a longer description in 6th grade English for guys like me?? :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Take a rectangular piece of .063 or whatever and countersink that for a #6 screw. Since the skin/rib/whatever is dimpled, that goes in between and is sandwiched between the nutplate and the dimpled surface.
 
Switch to #8 screws

Sean,
I would like to suggest that you consider switching out all those #6 screws to #8s. I was advised by my RV guru [Jody Edwards, A&P, IA, RV-4 builder] to avoid #4 and #6 screws. He told me that they are much more prone to break when attempting to remove them. #8 nut plates allow you to avoid that problem. The #6 and #8 nut plates share the same rivet spacing, so #8s can be easily substituted for #6s. I have done this on my 8A. I see that ACS DOES carry MS21053-L08 single leg, countersunk #8 nut plates. See

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/anchornuts5.php

Genuine Aircraft Hardware has them in #6 & #8

http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com/store.asp?alternate=MS21051L06K

Genuine uses an odd numbering system. MS21051 is SUPPOSED to be a non countersunk one leg nut plate. MS21053 is supposed to be the countersunk version. The old AN nomenclature added the letter K onto the suffix to denote a dimpled [for countersink] nut plate. For some odd reason, Genuine lists the MS21053 as MS21051-06K [a corruption of the two standards] No wonder why you could not find them!
Charlie
 
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Charlie,

Thanks for the recommendation of going with #8 screws and plates. I may have to do that if I can't get this solved.

I could be wrong, but it appears the "K" suffix on the part numbers you provide indicate a dimple on the nutplate for the rivets, not a countersink for the screw.

Thanks,
 
I can taste my socks!

SeanB said:
Charlie,

Thanks for the recommendation of going with #8 screws and plates. I may have to do that if I can't get this solved.

I could be wrong, but it appears the "K" suffix on the part numbers you provide indicate a dimple on the nut plate for the rivets, not a countersink for the screw.

Thanks,
Click to expand...

Brain fart on my part! :eek: You are correct.

Charlie
 
Thanks for sticking up for us!

SeanB said:
Charlie,

Thanks for the recommendation of going with #8 screws and plates. I may have to do that if I can't get this solved.

I could be wrong, but it appears the "K" suffix on the part numbers you provide indicate a dimple on the nutplate for the rivets, not a countersink for the screw.

Thanks,
Click to expand...

If any you see an error of AN/AS/MS/NAS item #'s let me know!
share what reference you saw it in, preferably a bonafide print from the agencies that are listed just above in bold letters.

This would also be good if it is from actual manufacturing prints/documents.

We strive to Helpful & Accurate.:cool:
 
AN Hardware

Two additional sources:

Inaco Inc, San Antonio, TX 210-344-8711

nor-calsupply.com San Leandro, CA 210-344-8711(near Oakland Airport)
 
Charlie,

Your response just cracked me up..haha..no problems.

Tom,

Thanks for jumping through hoops trying to help me on the phone yesterday.

Everyone else...great ideas and thanks for the leads for a solution/source.
 
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