[burgundyja]

i am puting in the nut plates on the longrons and i am having trouble. the counter sink micro stop does not fit and the angle for the manual one is not right. i have been able to get some rivets in but it takes a lot of work and time. does anyone have a trick to make it easyer. also there are two rivets that i can not get behind and buck can i use blind rivets on nutplates?

 

[Rick6a]

i am puting in the nut plates on the longrons and i am having trouble. the counter sink micro stop does not fit and the angle for the manual one is not right. i have been able to get some rivets in but it takes a lot of work and time. does anyone have a trick to make it easyer. also there are two rivets that i can not get behind and buck can i use blind rivets on nutplates?

Without exception, I always use NAS1097AD3 rivets to attach nutplates. No countersink microstop is required. An open countersink and a deft touch will do. If accessability is still a problem (shouldn't be) you can twist a 3/16" or larger drill bit through your fingers to generate the shallow countersink required for 1097 rivets.

Yes, if need be you can use blind rivets to attach nutplates.

 

[Mel]

Yes you can!

Yes, you can use blind rivets on nut-plates. These rivets are not structural.
On another note, you need to get a countersink stop-cage with one side cut away. You will need this in other places before you are through. These cut-away C/S cages may be found at most fly-in "fly-marts" or you can make one yourself.

 

[airguy]

Yes, you can use blind rivets on nut-plates. These rivets are not structural.
On another note, you need to get a countersink stop-cage with one side cut away. You will need this in other places before you are through. These cut-away C/S cages may be found at most fly-in "fly-marts" or you can make one yourself.

I've got an extra countersink cage that can be sacrificial for this - got any pictures of how it needs to be cut up?

 

[b17fe]

Greg,
You can just cut part of the foot off ... use a strait edge across the foot.
Leave as much as you can for stability.
Cut a little and grind the rest till it fits snug in the angle stock.

 

[rocketbob]

Without exception, I always use NAS1097AD3 rivets to attach nutplates. No countersink microstop is required.

I do the same, the 1097 rivets have a little bit of a radius on the top so they expand nicely in holes that may be countersunk too deeply.

 

[noelf]

If you have some how ended up with an "extra" countersink cage (like...when you drop your drill with the cutter and cage installed and end up bending the cutter shaft so it no longer spins without a big wobble...which makes the whole thing useless), you can cut down the cage so it can be placed very close to an adjacent protruding surface, asuming that you have ordered a replacement tool.

U.S. Industrial Tool & Supply Co (ustool-new.com) has a down loadable catalogue, and page 105 shows what one looks like. You can order several different types of cages...but just be sure what you order will fit what you have, as there are many different types and sizes of micro-stop countersink cage tools.

I have found the "cut-down" version quite handy for the tight quarters situation, but I still use the full cage most of the time.

 

[mark schoening]

I have used a "deburring" tool to countersink in tight places. carefull use and test depth with rivit . Works so well, I've used it in non-critical places.

 

[Rick6a]

I've got an extra countersink cage that can be sacrificial for this - got any pictures of how it needs to be cut up?

Common practice in production shops, my collection includes these two examples of the many ways a countersink cage can be modified to fit a particular situation.