N941WR

N941WR

Legacy Member
Van's continuous improvement of the kits just blows me away.

On Friday I flew up to Copper Hill, TN to inspect Bret Smith's very nice -9A and eat some good Mexican food.

While there we pulled the baffle kit out and laid it out on the floor so he could see how it goes together.

The kit that I received two years ago is the old one, with the 8x11" hand drawings. This new kit is based on the RV-10; the drawings are done in CAD, the kit is much better made (redesigned), and much less confusing to assemble.

I kind of feel like an RV-6 builder talking about the pre-punched kits. Boy do you guys have it easy! ;)
 
Hey Bill, I was kind of scratching my head by some of the comments made about doing the baffles...I think it took me 10 to 15 hours to get them installed, rather than some of the 100+ hours I've heard from others. It still wasn't a "fun" part of the build, IMHO, but it wasn't the nightmare I was expecting, either! :cool:
 
The best line on that hand-drawn sheet is, "Trim if/as required." If required? Well it's only 4 inches taller than the cowl.. :D
 
Is the baffle kit really better or just the instructions? If so do you think I could ask for another copy of the instructions????:D
 
DarylT said:
Is the baffle kit really better or just the instructions? If so do you think I could ask for another copy of the instructions????:D
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It is a better kit. Different than the old one, the parts are different, they fit together different. For example, the hole for the cabin heat fitting is pre-punched, including the rivet holes to hold the flange on.

The new instructions probably won't work with the old baffle kit.
 
As an extension of this thread, my new baffles have holes over the aftmost two spark plugs, obviously to get a wrench extension in to the plugs. The holes are oval, about 1/2 inch diameter. No indication on the plans what to do about these in terms of airflow. Other parts of the instructions indicate it is appropriate to seal the baffles wherever 'excess' or 'non-cooling' airflow can seep around the baffles without doing its work. So, one would presume that these plug access holes (if thats what they really are) should also be plugged (pun intended). Anybody have ideas on whether and how to plug them appropriately (I've been thinking of screwing on a small piece of aluminum)?

thanks,
greg
 
Greg,

Could you plug the holes with some airseal fabric? That way you could just lift it out of the way when you need to get your plugs out. Either that or add a plate nut on either side and make a cover you screw into place.
 
Greg Arehart said:
As an extension of this thread, my new baffles have holes over the aftmost two spark plugs, obviously to get a wrench extension in to the plugs. The holes are oval, about 1/2 inch diameter. No indication on the plans what to do about these in terms of airflow. Other parts of the instructions indicate it is appropriate to seal the baffles wherever 'excess' or 'non-cooling' airflow can seep around the baffles without doing its work. So, one would presume that these plug access holes (if thats what they really are) should also be plugged (pun intended). Anybody have ideas on whether and how to plug them appropriately (I've been thinking of screwing on a small piece of aluminum)?

thanks,
greg
Click to expand...

I used the precambrian baffle kit and drilled circular holes for plug access. Used 1/2" snap-plugs to seal them up, inserted from the inside.

Almost anything will work, seal strips, small aluminum plates, aluminum tape...

By the way, where do the new baffles recommend the heater duct take-off point to be? The old sets had the flange mounted to the back right up near the top, but the scat tube routing didn't work out. Like others, I mounted the flange down lower to get a straighter shot to the muff.

Vern
 
vlittle said:
IBy the way, where do the new baffles recommend the heater duct take-off point to be? The old sets had the flange mounted to the back right up near the top, but the scat tube routing didn't work out. Like others, I mounted the flange down lower to get a straighter shot to the muff.
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Vern, there is no recommendation on the new kit. The holes are already punched on the lower angled section, behind #3 cylinder.
 
Tinnerman type washers

I believe the new baffle plans reference (if you look real hard) using a pair of tinnerman washers in those holes. I know I puzzled over this quite a while.

I'm out of town today and will post an update letting you know what I did after I get home late tonight.
 
Rick is Right

Rick is right......................


The kit provides 4 # 10 Tinnerman washers to cover the holes in question.
 
Tinnerman + flat washer

I checked my installation. I put a tinnerman on the outside and a flat washer + a tinnerman on the inside, secured with an all metal stop nut.
 
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