tciavola

Member
This has been posted in other forums, but I thought it would be good to repost.

The bolt and nut that hold the nosewheel rim on the front strut loosens over time causing a shimmy and the wheel pant to become loose and damaged.

I suggest that you periodically check and tighten the nut. I understand it should be torqued to 22lbs. You may want to confirm with Vans.

Regards,

Todd
 
This has been posted in other forums, but I thought it would be good to repost.

The bolt and nut that hold the nosewheel rim on the front strut loosens over time causing a shimmy and the wheel pant to become loose and damaged.

I suggest that you periodically check and tighten the nut. I understand it should be torqued to 22lbs. You may want to confirm with Vans.

Regards,

Todd

With the cotter pin installed I've never had mine slip in over 1,000 hours. I can understand the type of washer(s) used changing the tension but the nut shouldn't move.
 
Just for clarity's sake, I believe you two are talking about two different nuts. Post 1 is about the axle nut on the wheel. Post two is about the pivot nut with the Bellville washers and cotter pin.
 
Just for clarity's sake, I believe you two are talking about two different nuts. Post 1 is about the axle nut on the wheel. Post two is about the pivot nut with the Bellville washers and cotter pin.

Guy,

Maybe I'm confused here, you torque the axle nut to 22 pounds? Silly me, by that statement I just assumed he was referring to the pivot nut with the Bellville washers. For what it's worth, I don't torque my axle nut to 22 but I do check the pivot nut tightness with a pull guage indicating at least 22 pounds.
 
Just make sure it's right and stays right.

I didn't mean to offend anyone, I guess it's just my nature. Obviously there is some misunderstanding about which fasteners are being talked about in this thread. Just make sure both of the fasteners are correct. For different reasons, they can both change over time.
 
Nosewheel

Ok, I called Vans and have made two corrections to the fork and axle bolt/nut. First, the nut on the axle bolt should be torqued to 7-10 pounds and the wheel should spin with some resistance. Second, I drilled a 6mm hole through the fork into the spacer, tapped the spacer and added a stainless steel machine screw with lock washers to keep the spacer from spinning and galling the inside of the fork. I also checked the nut at the top of the strut mounting bracket that holds the strut in place. Now, all is well.