[drmax]

Hello. I need to order this front fairing due to it getting into something and damaging it. Is this piece ordered seperately? Besides painting it, is there anything else that needs to be done to it, like drilling any of the holes, or is it pretty much ready to go on? Thx, DM

 

[cubdriver]

Fairing

You might want to order from fairings.etc. as they make nice products. You will need to I stall the hinge to close the back and paint.

 

[qtrmiledan]

Front Gear Fairing

I have a new one from van's- if you're needing the long one that covers the tapered rod. $20 plus shipping if you want it.

 

[cubdriver]

Anti Splat

I have a brand new anti - splat which comes with the fairing. I will sell it to you $50 cheaper than Allan at Anti-Splat and pay for shipping if you want to go that route.

 

[drmax]

wrong fairing gents

It's the tire fairing covering the front on the tire. Sorry, I should have added "tire" in the subject. Does it come ready to paint and install, or is this part of the 49/51 rule which I'd have to create? I got into something with it and messed it up. I can either try to repair.....or would rather buy new and stick it on there. Thx

 

[William]

The wheel fairing from vans does not come ready to mount. You need to drill all of holes that attach the fairing to the fairing mount base. The holes to attach the front of the fairing to the rear fairing need also to be drilled. There is quite a bit of body work that needs to be done to the fairing before it is ready for paint. None of this is hard but can be a little time consuming. How about a picture of the damaged nose wheel fairing and we can help direct you if it will be quicker/easier for you to repair your current fairing or purchase new.

Bill

 

[drmax]

 

[aerhed]

You can repair that faster than you can build up a new one. First thing I noticed though, is that the turning stop was installed backwards. The tangs that engage the cap screw stops should be forward. There seems to be a number of builders that have gotten their brain backwards and installed that wrong.

 

[drmax]

You can repair that faster than you can build up a new one. First thing I noticed though, is that the turning stop was installed backwards. The tangs that engage the cap screw stops should be forward. There seems to be a number of builders that have gotten their brain backwards and installed that wrong.

Ok on repair. So to reverse the stops, does the tire need to be yanked, and that collar turned around? This will be a first for me. Any good photo of how this is suppose to look? Also torque values and proper assembly of wheel back onto gear? Maybe its a blessing this all came about? Thank you much...DM

 

[drmax]

Ok on repair. So to reverse the stops, does the tire need to be yanks, and that collar turned around? This will be a first for me. Any good photo of how this is suppose to look? Also torque values and proper assembly of wheel back onto gear? Maybe its a blessing this all came about? Thank you much...DM

Can some post a pic of how this collar is suppose to look? Thx

 

[MauiLvrs]

... does the tire need to be yanked, and that collar turned around?

Should be able to pull the bolts and spin it around 180 deg.

 

[Finley Atherton]

Ok on repair. So to reverse the stops, does the tire need to be yanked, and that collar turned around? This will be a first for me. Any good photo of how this is suppose to look? Also torque values and proper assembly of wheel back onto gear? Maybe its a blessing this all came about? Thank you much...DM

No photo but here is a previous discussion.

The collar needs to be rotated 180 degrees around the strut so that the stops are on the fwd side of the strut. You will need to remove the split pin at the bottom of the strut and remove or loosen the big nut enough so there is no pressure pushing up on the collar before you will be able to remove the bolt from the collar.
When reinstalled the big nut will have to be tightened so there is a 22 lb (from memory) sideways break-out force on the fork as measured at the wheel axle location.

You have not explained how the fairing came to be damaged but damage like this is considered to be the beginning of the nose gear digging in/flip over event. Be carefull!!
Could be an optical illusion but the tyre looks a bit flat and this would decrease the fairing/ground clearance especially as the tyre will compress more if it hits a bump.

Fin
9A

 

[drmax]

No photo but here is a previous discussion.

The collar needs to be rotated 180 degrees around the strut so that the stops are on the fwd side of the strut. You will need to remove the split pin at the bottom of the strut and remove or loosen the big nut enough so there is no pressure pushing up on the collar before you will be able to remove the bolt from the collar.
When reinstalled the big nut will have to be tightened so there is a 22 lb (from memory) sideways break-out force on the fork as measured at the wheel axle location.

You have not explained how the fairing came to be damaged but damage like this is considered to be the beginning of the nose gear digging in/flip over event. Be carefull!!
Could be an optical illusion but the tyre looks a bit flat and this would decrease the fairing/ground clearance especially as the tyre will compress more if it hits a bump.

Fin
9A

Hello. Taxi'ing from grass to concrete and hit a lower spot on soil. Fairing made contact with the concrete....and not the nut. I am well aware of the "nose gear digging in" issues. BTW, this is the newer style gear leg. Thx for the pointers on getting the collar spun around. I'll have to find some way to torque that nut. Got the wrench, just not that big off crow foot. DM

 

[Rupester]

I don;t have a good pic, but ...

... the correct installation is straightforward (so to speak ) The "tab" with the ears goes straight to the front of the gear leg. It restricts the side-to-side pivoting of the nosewheel to about 60 degrees or less on each side. Once you flip it around you'll immediately see how it works with the two allen-head screws on the top of the nosewheel carriage.

 

[drmax]

... the correct installation is straightforward (so to speak ) The "tab" with the ears goes straight to the front of the gear leg. It restricts the side-to-side pivoting of the nosewheel to about 60 degrees or less on each side. Once you flip it around you'll immediately see how it works with the two allen-head screws on the top of the nosewheel carriage.

With it installed the way it is, do I then have a greater turning degree?
I'll get at this soon. Installing an engine heater 1st.

 

[drmax]

I hate to be spoon fed and I do appreciate the help. Do I need to get the wheel off the ground for this job, or can I loosen/retorque with it on the ground? I finding this going to be a big job, without the propper jack to get it off the ground, if required.
Thx, DM

 

[Rupester]

Find a big buddy ...

If he just puts his weight on top of the aft fuse, the nosewheel will pop right off the ground. Then just block up the fwd fuse while it's in air. One of my pilot/RV/ hangar buds weighs about 250. He has NO trouble popping my nosewheel off the ground.

 

[bhester]

Pics

Hello. Taxi'ing from grass to concrete and hit a lower spot on soil. Fairing made contact with the concrete....and not the nut. I am well aware of the "nose gear digging in" issues. BTW, this is the newer style gear leg. Thx for the pointers on getting the collar spun around. I'll have to find some way to torque that nut. Got the wrench, just not that big off crow foot. DM

I tried to find a better picture but couldn't.

You shouldn't need to take any weight off to turn it around. You just need to removed the bolt that run through the gear leg, torque is no be deal on that one, tighten it down and call it done. As far as that big nut on the bottom you don't torque it either you can use a large adjustable wrench to turn it. tighten it until you can do this: Use a fish scale attached to the end of the fork and pull it the nose wheel fork should not turn until there is break out force of 22lbs.

Don't worry about making a scale hook just hook it on the edge of the fork.
Hope this helps!

 

[drmax]

If he just puts his weight on top of the aft fuse, the nosewheel will pop right off the ground. Then just block up the fwd fuse while it's in air. One of my pilot/RV/ hangar buds weighs about 250. He has NO trouble popping my nosewheel off the ground.

that had crossed my mind, sorta like as you'd spin around a 152. Didn't wanna put undo stress anywhere, though.

 

[drmax]

I tried to find a better picture but couldn't.

You shouldn't need to take any weight off to turn it around. You just need to removed the bolt that run through the gear leg, torque is no be deal on that one, tighten it down and call it done. As far as that big nut on the bottom you don't torque it either you can use a large adjustable wrench to turn it. tighten it until you can do this: Use a fish scale attached to the end of the fork and pull it the nose wheel fork should not turn until there is break out force of 22lbs.

Don't worry about making a scale hook just hook it on the edge of the fork.
Hope this helps!

Thx Bobby. This REALLY helps!...I did find that lowes has a 1.5" socket for only $7. I'll keep it.

 

[drmax]

bolt

Welp, took some weight off the nose a bit, and drove the bolt out. Spun collar and now getting a tap/die set. May be able to clean up the threads...dunno. Gathering tools I've never (until I bought this thing) had a need for...

 

[Finley Atherton]

Welp, took some weight off the nose a bit, and drove the bolt out. Spun collar and now gotta go get me a die set, or find an equiv. bolt at the hardware store to replace. May be able to clean up the threads...dunno.
Gathering tools I've never (until I bought this thing) had a need for...

Do not recut the thread with a die or use a hardware store bolt. If you need to replace the bolt use the correct AN5-17A bolt available from aircraft parts supply shops such as Aircraft Spruce.

I see you bought your RV rather than building so it may be wise to seek out someone with experience to help with or to do the maintenance/modifications/repairs on your RV.

Fin
9A

 

[drmax]

finished with question

Hello. Got the bolts cleaned up and reinstalled. Something I seen and will ask....

The nut end of the turn collar bolt extends over the collar cap screw, while fork is in the turn. If it isn't adjusted so the flat of nut isn't flat, it will slightly catch on capscrew. I adjusted flat and goes over fine. To me, this would indicate wrong hardware. It's clearing and will leave alone. I don't see it rotating and if it did, it would be a minor rub.

There was maybe 1 lb of pull force to the fork. I tightened up to 20 lbs. Another notch would go over to 25. I "guess" it was good my wheel pant got damaged or I would not have found this issue. I can imagine she won't wander around the run way on takeoff/landing as much now?

I did notice my rim took a minor ding as when it hit the concrete edge. (reason for being where I am) I don't see this as an issue, unless someone else wants to speak about it. I don't see it as being a balance or vibe issue.

If there is anything else I should ck while she's up, please let me know. I figured I'd shoot some grease in it and call it a day.

 

[drmax]

Do not recut the thread with a die or use a hardware store bolt. If you need to replace the bolt use the correct AN-17A bolt available from aircraft parts supply shops such as Aircraft Spruce.

I see you bought your RV rather than building so it may be wise to seek out someone with experience to help with or to do the maintenance/modifications/repairs on your RV.

Fin
9A

Minor thread cleaning on original bolt. I can order another bolt. Tire pressure is reading 25ish.