GAHco

GAHco

Well Known Member
No Problem, all it takes is Money? (quick release pins)

Bob Hoffman said:
Tom,
Your response to Jesse, If applicable,might be of interest to some of us --Is there such a thing as a red(or any color) handle quick release pin??
thanks Bob
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We can get custom quick release pins made, to look and act like pretty much anything.

Typically the first truly economical manufacturing qty is 100, and after that it gets somewhat but not a whole lot better.

Provided just what the specs are, and the assumption that many people will need the identical item, it would not be difficult to get some started.

The lead time would be 10 weeks to 18 weeks depending on the specs.
That is after we had enough firm orders to start the deal.

Let me know how we can be of help, Engineers come forth!;)
 
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McMaster Carr sells many different types of quick release pins. I used two to make my slider canopy ejectable.
 
Just so ya'all know

what we're talking about here.

I've seen posted that some guys with -8s (and maybe other models) have used quick release pins for sliders, where the roller fitting fits into the canopy frame. This would allow the pins to be pulled and the canopy ejected in flight or removed on the ground easier.

The pins are commonly available with black anodized handles. I'd like a couple that are red anodized, as this would indicate a pretty important handle and the color sticks out more, making it easier to locate.

The pins look like this.


By veetail88

They usually sell for around $20 a piece, but I haven't been able to find them with red handles.

There are manufactures that specialize in this type of product and will make up anything you want, but as Tom has stated, they likely have a minimum order number.

So, if we could get enough of us to commit to buying them, maybe we could get Tom to place the initial order and then carry them for folks that might want them in the future!

Tom, if the price isn't astronomical, put me down for 2!
 
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Can you disassemble the black ones, and have them stripped and re anodized red? One point, any anodized part that is exposed to the sun is going to fade. Just painting them red would last longer.
 
If you are interested post a response.

A true Red Andodize will last longer than we will.

All I need to do is get the actual dimensions of the pins that really work.

I am not thinking tee heads though, they can catch things when not wanted to, and you may need to take extra time to rotate them before ejection.

I am thinking the heads that look like a little flying saucer, in bright durable Red Anodize.

These should be a 2 retaining ball set up, if not 4.

Please let me know how many you would want, and I will see what I can do once I get most of the responses.

If you don't want any, don't respond, just get what you think will be best for you.

With enough positive requests I hope to be able to provide a good deal.
 
Just curious, which of the two fasteners in the photo below would these pins be replacing?

20070914_roller.jpg


If it would be used in place of the screw that runs fore/aft and attaches the roller weldment to the canopy frame, I guess I'm just having trouble figuring out how the "ball end" of the quick-release pin won't hit the rollbar when the canopy's closed. Not to mention clearance issues with the side skirt brace.

If you mean to use the pin to attach the roller wheel to the weldment, what are you planning to do on the outboard side of the roller?

Just wondering. Seems like a good place to have a jettison ability, just trying to figure out how it works.

thanks,
mcb
 
mburch said:
Just curious, which of the two fasteners in the photo below would these pins be replacing?

If you mean to use the pin to attach the roller wheel to the weldment, what are you planning to do on the outboard side of the roller?

Just wondering. Seems like a good place to have a jettison ability, just trying to figure out how it works.
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The top one. See the highlight box on this oldish photo of my plane:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/funkym0nkey/111514227/in/set-72057594080611752/

If doing this mod, I recommend yawing the hole you drill through the frame so the inside pushbutton is pointed slightly inside, but it is not required.
 
kevinh said:
If doing this mod, I recommend yawing the hole you drill through the frame so the inside pushbutton is pointed slightly inside, but it is not required.
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Good thinking, and thanks for the explanation. Maybe I'll incorporate this idea on the next airplane. :)

mcb
 
That helps me understand.

kevinh said:
The top one. See the highlight box on this oldish photo of my plane:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/funkym0nkey/111514227/in/set-72057594080611752/

If doing this mod, I recommend yawing the hole you drill through the frame so the inside push button is pointed slightly inside, but it is not required.
Click to expand...

That helps me understand, I am just starting my fuselage slow build kit, so I have a way to go before putting the canopy on.

The great part about a really slow build project like mine is that I have time to incorporate the cool options I find out about from my buddies in the field and on the forum.

I just need a consensus on the dimensions and I can work up an offer.
I do realize its hard to go in for the deal with an unknown cost, we will see if I can remedy that.

Dimensions Please!
 
Mine (on the -8) are like Kevin's, except "yawed" 45 degrees. I pulled the pins once the canopy was locked when I was test flying - now they only come out when I need to pop the canopy off for maintenance - very useful feature for that!
 
Currious??

Paul,

How do you get the rear slider block attach for the canopy off. Mine can't slide back far enough without the canopy hitting the horizontal/vertical stab fairing. This seems to an issue only on the tandem models with a slider.

Ted
 
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Ted RV8 said:
Paul,

How do you get the rear slider block attach for the canopy off. Mine can't slide back far enough without the canopy hitting the horizontal/vertical stab fairing. This seems to an issue only on the tandem models with a slider.

Ted
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It's in the way you build the rear of the canopy skirt Ted. Some change the shape so that it is shorter than stock. I cut little diagonal notches that allow the skirt to slide back and nest in the Empennage fairing just enough to get it off. Since you're doing a bunch of free-form fiberglass back there anyway, you can make it fit....just!

Paul
 
Tom,

The OD of the tube on the -8 is .76". The plans call for a 10-32 screw.

I think 3/16" diameter pins are probably the smalles you can get.

So I don't know what to tell you about grip length. I'd be afraid 3/4" is just too short, but 1" is going to be sloppy.

Suppose if you custom order them though, you should be able to get what ever length you want?
 
Nailing it down...... I think?

Veetail88 said:
Tom,

The OD of the tube on the -8 is .76". The plans call for a 10-32 screw.

I think 3/16" diameter pins are probably the smallest you can get.

So I don't know what to tell you about grip length. I'd be afraid 3/4" is just too short, but 1" is going to be sloppy.

Suppose if you custom order them though, you should be able to get what ever length you want?
Click to expand...

Cool, 13/16th's is an option.

I am assuming that this pin is holding the Roller Assembly to the Canopy Frame, not the Roller itself as a pin/axle.

Chime in please.
 
mburch said:
Good thinking, and thanks for the explanation. Maybe I'll incorporate this idea on the next airplane. :)
Click to expand...

Btw - the 'yawing' is optional, it just makes it a bit easier to press the button if need be. I switched to pins later, I had drilled the hole using the standard directions. Initially I was using the plans spec screw.
 
GAHco said:
Thanks for the pictures, that helps.

Do you think it would be better to put the pins in parallel to the Roller pivot bolt, or parallel with the rail?

That would be if the holes were not drilled and you still had an option.
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It might very well be model-dependent Tom, but when I played with it before drilling in the -8, I decided that the best option was to have them at a 45 degree angle to the rail - much easier to pull and insert. I used standard "Pip" pins that look like a mushroom with a button on top. Same diameter as an AN3 bolt (I think) and 3/4" grip (I think). A T-handle would be neat!

Paul
 
What do you think, either way could be done?

Originally Posted by Ironflight View Post
It might very well be model-dependent Tom, but when I played with it before drilling in the -8, I decided that the best option was to have them at a 45 degree angle to the rail - much easier to pull and insert. I used standard "Pip" pins that look like a mushroom with a button on top. Same diameter as an AN3 bolt (I think) and 3/4" grip (I think). A T-handle would be neat!
Click to expand...

Paul
Here is what I was thinking and would like it considered as a possibility from my previous post.

(GAHco)I am not thinking tee heads though, they can catch things when not wanted to, and you may need to take extra time to rotate them before ejection.
Click to expand...

I am thinking the heads that look like a little flying saucer, in bright durable Red Anodize.

This might make them a little less expensive and safer.

What do you think? either way could be done.
__________________
 
If they;re red anodized,

I'd buy em with the button or the T-handle. Preffer the t because I don't see the problems, but like I said, I'd buy em if they're buttons too.

Unfortunately, I'm letting my emotional side of me dictate this. I like the T because I think it looks "Cooler"! Maybe the buttons are better.

Quick release pins for a safety improvement, red anodized T handle because it's cool.

Juvenile? Sure, but oh well? I also have a very "Cool" sounding SuperTrapp exhaust on my Harley because I think it's "Cool"!

Just me. I'm never growin up!:D:D:D
 
I'd vote red round ones (or t handle if it will fit the non 45 deg angle installs). Depending on price I might just replace my two silver mcmaster versions.
 
I sure am hoping!

kevinh said:
I'd vote red round ones (or t handle if it will fit the non 45 deg angle installs). Depending on price I might just replace my two silver mcmaster versions.
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I sure am hoping, that we can get enough folks to go in with us, cuz now after spending a few hours on the project, and sharing all these good ideas, I wont be able to go without them come canopy time.;)

So............... Anyone else?

Post REPLY if you would like 2ea Red Handled Quick Release Pins for your canopy, ,

estimated price for each is $15.00 to $22.00 each. NOTE,You would be notified of actual price before you had to fully commit.
 
You guys have way over thought this! A t-handle on the 8 will hit the seat back brace. 3/16's works, as well as .75 inch grip. Yawing a t-handle may work though. I got my pins from the Jergens company in Cleveland.

http://www.jergensinc.com/pin_select.aspx?ms=en&style_ID=300&dia=0.1875&grip=0.75

15 to 16 dollars apiece in stock, quick shipping, order them and be done with it. Paint them if you must, but for crying out loud get off the 'net and build your planes!!!:D
 
Mine look just like the ones JT posted the link to (except they are black and red) - work just fine, and I agree - the T-Handle might very well hit the mid-cabin brace.

Paul
 
Thanks for the info.

Ironflight said:
Mine look just like the ones JT posted the link to (except they are black and red) - work just fine, and I agree - the T-Handle might very well hit the mid-cabin brace.

Paul
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I appreciate the experience input, Paul.
Thanks.
 
Pull-Pins

Tom -

I'd like a pair of quick-release pins.
I'd prefer round heads and red anodize..
 
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