[Brantel]

Does anyone have detailed pics on their web build logs on how they completed one of the new baffle kits? All the old faithfull sites have been obsoleted with this new technology!

Anyone got a ton of pics that want's to invest some time to post them here?

 

[jthocker]

New kit rocks

Brian
The new kit and instructions are very easy to understand. Just dive right in and you'll be done in no time. The hardest part is making the curved cone shaped "corner" on the outboard side of the inlet ramps.
The new kit is a HUGE improvement over the old one.

 

[Brantel]

I agree it looks a ton better! I have been working with it but I have some fit issues around the back of the engine and I did'nt know if it is me making a mistake or if these areas still need to be trimmed to fit.

 

[DarylT]

parts or instructions

Is the instructions that are better or has there been parts upgrade as well?

 

[Brantel]

Total redesign of the kit, parts and plans.

The parts are way different, it includes an oil cooler reinforcement, air diverters for the front cylinders, conical parts that fit the inlets better on the lower outboard sides, lots more prepunched holes, and plans/pictures ala RV10 & 12.

 

[jthocker]

Brian
On the 2 8's I just finished, the first one had an older Lyc. O-360 and the baffle at the back around the case had to be trimmed alot to fit.
On the 2nd the engine is a new ECI O-360 and it seemed like the baffle kit was designed around it. Not nearly as much trimming was required.
Both planes had the new baffle kit.

Good luck

 

[flyvans.com]

having just started on the baffling, can anyone chime in, wheter i should start working on something else and get the new kit instead?

is it that much easier to build?
less longterm issues to be expected?
if it saves me a week of work, i find it's an easy 250$ value...

thanks a lot for opinions!

bernie

 

[mike109g6]

baffle kit

I agree it looks a ton better! I have been working with it but I have some fit issues around the back of the engine and I didn't know if it is me making a mistake or if these areas still need to be trimmed to fit.

Talked to Van's about the same issue. Was told that on new kit about 3 extra inches added that need to be trimmed off. My corners have the same problem - I keep trimming and trimming and they still need more trimming. In the middle I'm down to the case attach bracket and I could go down another 1/2" really - top of my cowl nose bowl is about 1/4" proud. I'm really putting the pneumatic shears and vixen files to work. Seems that the
'0' series baffle could have been a better fit to begin with. I'm going to have to cut the front(flywheel) baffle down about half it's original height. What a waste of metal. My 0-290D has a small footprint compared to a 0-320 which is the baffle that I had to use.
Mike H 9A/8A

 

[dhall_polo]

baffling pics

Brian,

I'm working on baffling now. Hopefully wrapping up most of it this weekend. I just put my pics on my gallery. I don't snap every step, but maybe these pics and comments are useful. I did find a healthy supply of baffling pics searching other threads on VAF.
http://donka.net/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=rv7_engine&page=6

Even with the baffling kit being apparently much improved over what others have gnarled about, I bet I've still spent maybe 25-30 hours on it. Maybe I'm just revealing how slow I can be. All I know is that I'm happy to see how few plane parts are left on the shelf! One of these days...

Don

 

[Greg Arehart]

Brian,

Just finished putting the baffles on a 360 in my 9A. I found that all the parts can be gotten into place without trimming (you will need to trim eventually to fit the cowl etc.) but for some you need to get them in exactly the proper orientation or they tend to catch or bind on something.

FWIW, be careful of where you put the oil cooler. In trying to get the maximum cooling, I put mine too high the first time and ended up buying a new L rear baffle.

greg

 

[Noah]

When did they switch?

When did they start shipping the new baffle kits? How does one know if they have the new or old kit?

 

[Brantel]

Can you elaborate??? Most say get it as high as possible to get it out from behind the cyld. Did you have other results?

FWIW, be careful of where you put the oil cooler. In trying to get the maximum cooling, I put mine too high the first time and ended up buying a new L rear baffle.
greg

 

[noelf]

I have not seen what is being called the "new" baffle kit, but for the "old" kit (RV-6A) ...Work on getting all of the perimeter sections attached, and do not make any cutouts for the oil cooler...yet.

Once all the pieces fit, all the screws are in, all the clecos are in or out of the way...start fitting the top cowling. Keep trimming until you have provided the desired clearance between the Al baffle and cowling top.

At that point, you can then start playing with the location of the oil cooler and extra double rs. If you think you will end up with too much air through the cooler, now is a good time to look into fitting the "oil cooler shutter" from Van.

 

[dhall_polo]

oil cooler

On the oil cooler: Just line up the lower right corner of the cooler mounting plate with the upper of the two holes already in the rear baffle, and you'll come out good. Or wait till you're done trimming and come back to that.

Can you elaborate??? Most say get it as high as possible to get it out from behind the cyld. Did you have other results?

 

[Rick6a]

I have not seen what is being called the "new" baffle kit, but for the "old" kit (RV-6A) ...

Having installed both baffle kits, I can testify first hand the newer iteration is a considerable improvement over the old style baffle kit. Not only are the instructions far more detailed with several pages of clear and easy to understand drawings, the new baffle kit is partly match hole and a key improvement in the design is three much harder T6 alloy baffle parts in the oil cooler area. What can be improved upon is if the instructions gave a "heads up" for -8 builders because the curvature of the cowling prevents the builder from locating the oil cooler as high on the baffle as is easily possible with side by side models. Because of the curvature, the builder has no choice but to locate the oil cooler very low and an excessive amount of baffle material must be cut away to generate suitable clearance near the oil cooler.