SMO

SMO

Well Known Member
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I have just ordered a replacement right elevator skin for my recently purchased 1987 RV4. Any tips/gotchas out there from those who have done this before? I expect to reuse the spar, ribs and stiffeners. Is this a reasonable expectation?

I have just finished building the empennage for my F1 Rocket project so am familiar with the basic skills (including drilling out rivets!).
 
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Which skin version?

Mark - if you have 'just' order them it might be worth considering which of the skin options you want. Probably not too late to change. See here.
http://gikoncnsdr.blogspot.com/
See the 24 May 06 post, the very oldest one for more info.. " If you are going to build a -4 there are a few issues which you need to think about....."
 
Thanks

Appreciate the advice. I did spend "5 minutes" thinking about the .020 skins but for a couple reasons - am only doing one side, don't want to add more weight to the CW - I decided to stay with the .016

That said, there seems to be some specific things to do correctly to avoid the cracking others have experienced (my skins are not cracked and they have 450 hours on them). It seems there is some bending of the skin required and there is a proper technique for this - what is it? There is a note about using a little proseal somewhere - is this on each rivet?
 
Stiffners too

If it were me, I'd make new stiffners and not try to salvage. Way too much work drilling out all those rivets for something so inexpensive and easy to fabricate. Vans can pack some stiffner stock in your elevator skin shipping box.

Also, you might want to purchase a cheap angle drill attachment to back drill holes along the spar flange.

When finished... let us know how you made out.
 
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Getting there

Well I found out that the RVator thing is a book and downloaded a copy (after paying for it of course :rolleyes:). WOW, there is a ton of Good Information in there. Thanks for that.

Re the stiffeners, I can probably make them alright, I have a shear and a brake (also have the angle drill, I am a tool hound). I think I read somewhere they are made of .025 which I have a sheet of. Reading "27 years of the RVator" I see some advice about running these right to the trailing edge with a bit of RTV to join them together, doing this eliminates reusing the old ones anyway.
 
Skin cracks in rudder...

I have had a number of skin cracks develop at stiffener rivets. So far, it has been a total of 5. I stop drilled each crack and haven't seen any grow or any new ones in 2 years. I built a new rudder with 0.020 skin and followed the recommendation of using ProSeal, in addition to rivets, to attach both the stiffeners and the spar. I elected to make an entirely new rudder to minimize the downtime. The new rudder is complete and will be installed once I get it painted along with the cowl. The addition of ProSeal went smoothly and I'm happy with the new rudder. I would expect that you could re-use any or all of the internal structure, but agree with the previous post about not bothering to recycle the stiffeners.

Good luck,

Dean Pichon
RV-4/400 hrs
 
No problems...

I had to reskin mine due to "garage rash". Like the other guys said, make new stiffners...you will be much happier! The other structure is no problem. I found it very helpful to use brand new drills to drill out the rivets. They will not "walk" as much and thus help keeping your holes true.
 
My -6 has been flying for 15 years with .016" skins, no cracks, no proseal, no extra stiffeners, just built per plans. The big secrete is to complete the trailing edge bend properly. The skin should lay against the spar in the totally relaxed state. There must be NO bulging between stiffeners at the trailing edge. Final tweaking of the trailing edge can be done with seaming pliers covered with duct tape.
 
Exactly

Mel said:
My -6 has been flying for 15 years with .016" skins, no cracks, no proseal, no extra stiffeners, just built per plans. The big secrete is to complete the trailing edge bend properly. The skin should lay against the spar in the totally relaxed state. There must be NO bulging between stiffeners at the trailing edge. Final tweaking of the trailing edge can be done with seaming pliers covered with duct tape.
Click to expand...

If you make your stiffeners exactly as shown on the plans, it will be difficult to make the trailing edge bend without hitting the top of the stiffener and having it show through the skin. You can make the angle on the stiffener a bit sharper, ie longer, to avoid some of this. I consider a little "stiffener rash" as a sign of a well formed trailing edge.
 
new rudder...

I recently re-skinned a friends rudder. We did a little experimenting, and wound up doing the riveted trailing edge like on the -7 and -9. It is beautiful, and I plan on doing the same for my -6.
 
BryanArd said:
I recently re-skinned a friends rudder. We did a little experimenting, and wound up doing the riveted trailing edge like on the -7 and -9. It is beautiful, and I plan on doing the same for my -6.
Click to expand...

Hi Bryan,

Did you cut your own skins or were you able to use Vans elevator skins?
 
cut...

Hi Tom. I ordered two sheets of 2' by 4' .016 from Aircraft Spruce and a few pieces of that "wedge" that Van's uses for the other planes.

I then used the stock -4 rudder plans and trimmed the skins. In order to get the skins to lay flat rather than abruptly pull together at the trailing edge, the cord line of the rudder has to be extended about 1/2 inch. Then you just follow the instructions Van gives for the riveted trailing edge. I made a few test pieces before doing the actual rudder, just to get the hang of it!

I am getting ready to leave for a trip. I will be back Thursday night and then I will try to upload some pics.

Feel free to call me at 985-351-5655 in the mean time.
Bryan
 
Let's try this again...


img1153wn8.jpg



img1154pt9.jpg



img1157tz7.jpg



Dang, I think I got it!!! BTW, that is NOT me in the second pic. That is the owner of the -4 with a new rudder.
 
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