M

markduffield

Member
I currently have a dual rocket link setup on my RV-8 for control of the tailwheel. I am finding it a little bit twitchy and perhaps prone to overcontrol. From my research, the traditional chain and spring setup may be more docile and predictable which is what I am looking for. I want to try it out and see for myself. I am looking for a recommendation for a complete kit to include the eyebolts (not sure this is the correct term) that go into the holes in the rudder horn pivot points and into the control arm on the tailwheel assembly to prevent them from being subject to wear from friction. And if anyone has a quality setup that they have sitting around unused, I might be willing to buy it. Thank you all in advance for your advice and help.
 
I just recently did this. Before I switched to chains I rechecked the wheel alignment an adjusted to zero toe in/out (as close as possible). Added the chains and no more twitchy landings. I’m thinking it’s the alignment and not the chains that corrected the twitchy roll out.

For the chains you’re looking for eye-bolts in the rudder horns.

IMG_2079.jpeg
 
I have had similar to the above post in all my RV's but have the eyebolts in the steering arm instead of the rudder horn. This lowers the chains to give more clearance to the rudder fairing. I also just use the Vans supplied clips and have never had an issue. Dan Horton has previously posted a nice cable solution which many use for a more elegant look.
 
I have the eyebolts on both ends and the Van's clips and 800 hours with no problems, the shackles on Foghorns photo are a clean looking approach. The note about the chains on the bottom is right on to protect the rudder fairing. I will have to check out Dan's solution next week.
Figs
 
With a spring arrangement if you want to fine tune the relationship between rudder movement and then TW movement…

Matco offers springs with different tensions

An old spark plug gasket allows for an adjustment that is less than removing or adding a link In the chain
 

Attachments

  • B889677F-8336-4BE7-AF78-666730395836.jpeg
    B889677F-8336-4BE7-AF78-666730395836.jpeg
    1,011.4 KB · Views: 89
"Slack" in the chain/cable setup ...

What are the member's thoughts (those that use chain/cable), wrt the installed slack between rudder movement & TW steering?

Two completely separate schools of thought, and it's always interesting to get "users" viewpoints & experience on the subject.

Thanks - HFS
 
I have slack in the chain, holdover from my prior Pacer, I think it helps me not over control but that may be just my imagination:cool:
Figs
 
Typically I set "snug" with weight off the tailwheel. This will give a small amount of slack when loaded.
 
Foghorn said:
I just recently did this. Before I switched to chains I rechecked the wheel alignment an adjusted to zero toe in/out (as close as possible). Added the chains and no more twitchy landings. I’m thinking it’s the alignment and not the chains that corrected the twitchy roll out.

For the chains you’re looking for eye-bolts in the rudder horns.

View attachment 66488
Click to expand...
Where do I get the hardware you have on the ends? Part numbers? source?, Website?
 
What is the part number for the interlocking springs, I need a couple for my Champ project?
Thanks Figs
 
rmarshall234 said:
An old spark plug gasket allows for an adjustment that is less than removing or adding a link In the chain

1721595820145.png
Click to expand...
Thanks for this tip. I added spark plug gaskets this morning to take out some slack, where taking out one link made it too tight.

IMG_4039.jpg
 
RV8JD said:
Thanks for this tip. I added spark plug gaskets this morning to take out some slack, where taking out one link made it too tight.

View attachment 66888
Click to expand...
Interestingly….
Since I’m running a Matco TW assembly on my airplane I ran the idea past George - the owner of Matco - and he thought it was a clever idea and said his only concern would be the softness of the material and to keep an eye on it. After 50 hours of operation of mostly T&Gs and hard use, I can see no noticeable deformation and I used new gaskets. Having a used (hardened) gasket would be even better.
 
rmarshall234 said:
Interestingly….
Since I’m running a Matco TW assembly on my airplane I ran the idea past George - the owner of Matco - and he thought it was a clever idea and said his only concern would be the softness of the material and to keep an eye on it. After 50 hours of operation of mostly T&Gs and hard use, I can see no noticeable deformation and I used new gaskets. Having a used (hardened) gasket would be even better.
Click to expand...
Good info. I also wondered about the softness of the copper material, and I also used new gaskets since I didn’t have any old ones around. So I’ll keep an eye on them too. Maybe I’ll swap them out next time I clean the plugs and use the work-hardened ones.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.