steve murray

Well Known Member
Just started flying my RV8 (I am a new tailwheel pilot) and have expereiced an unpleasant event twice. :eek: (My guess is it is my technique)

I have got the touchdown part workig pretty good, but twice with a crosswing coming from the right, and the tail now on the ground, I have found myself going to the right edge of the runway. I keep adding more left rudder but it feels and behaves like the rear wheel is not engaged to the steering mechanism at all. On the last event, I had full left rudder but no effect and I had to apply breaking action to the left wheel to prevent egressing the runway into the grass.

I checked my rear wheel tonight and it appears to be functioning correctly, it locks in place when straight and breaks free when put into a sharp turn.

I am wondering if something in my technique is causing the wheel to break free and I am losing steering capability?


Would really appreciate some thoughts
 
Tyres and Gyroscopics

Steve,
In a crosswind you need to stop any swing AS SOON AS IT STARTS. The further out the tail swings, the more it wants to continue.
It would be better to fractionally over control and keep the nose on the downwind side of the centre line.

Other possibilities are;
Lowering the tail quickly (the same as raising it quickly) will induce a swing, caused by gyroscopic precession of the prop.

Also, you might check the inflation of your right tyre.

Pete.
 
Practice and brakes

Steve:

Work up to the crosswind stuff. Fly a lot and lots of pattern work. Sounds like you are wheel landing and these are easier to master. Keep the tail up as long as possible. If you find yourself uncomfortable, give it full throttle, raise the flaps and go around. Do not hesitate on the go around. It may keep you from breaking something. If your strip is long, say 5000', you may be able to try twice. I've been where you are now. Don't give up, it gets better with practice and light use of the brakes after you run out of rudder/tail wheel.

Good luck and relax.
 
A couple of questions come to mind Steve - the asnwer might be dependent on some of them:

1) Configuration - do you have the stock tailwheel and screen door springs? Or are you using somethign difernt?

2) Is the wind gusty or steady?

3) How is your speed when this is happening - are you full aft on the stick, loading the tailwheel?

4) Is the rudder centered or deflected at tailwheel touchdown?

Paul
 
steve murray said:
(snip)I have got the touchdown part workig pretty good, but twice with a crosswing coming from the right, and the tail now on the ground, I have found myself going to the right edge of the runway. (snip) I had full left rudder but no effect and I had to apply breaking action to the left wheel to prevent egressing the runway into the grass.

I checked my rear wheel tonight and it appears to be functioning correctly, it locks in place when straight and breaks free when put into a sharp turn.

I am wondering if something in my technique is causing the wheel to break free and I am losing steering capability?


Would really appreciate some thoughts

Hi Steve.

I am relatively low time in the RV-8 (around 160 hours) but haven't noticed this behavior. I have a couple of thoughts, but there are others with more experience who might be more helpful.

Exactly where does your tailwheel steering break loose? My understanding is that full rudder shouldn't be enough to unlock the tailwheel, without adding a touch of brake. If your rudder stops are allowing just a little too much travel, you may be unlocking your tailwheel right when you need it the most.

I usually put the tailwheel down very late in the landing roll, especially in a crosswind. Most of my landings are tail-low wheel landings. At the end of the roll after a crosswind landing, the stick will be buried forward and into the wind, with lots of opposite rudder. As the tailwheel touches the runway, I ease off the rudder momentarily or I'll get a little swerve (I'm using one of the Jantzi/Rocket links and my tailwheel steering is a little more sensitive than the rudder at low speeds.

The rudder on the -8 is enormously powerful, and crosswinds should become relatively routine.

Is it possible that your wheel alignment is off? This can cause squirrely ground handling. Also check tire pressures.

Last, I know a very good tailwheel instructor out of PDK if you need or want a referral.

James Freeman

Here is a short tailcam view of a mild crosswind landing. I welcome constructive comments, but snide remarks regarding the centerline will be ignored;-)
 
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Side slip

steve murray said:
Just started flying my RV8 (I am a new tailwheel pilot) and have expereiced an unpleasant event twice. :eek: (My guess is it is my technique)

I have got the touchdown part working pretty good, but twice with a crosswind coming from the right, and the tail now on the ground, I have found myself going to the right edge of the runway. I keep adding more left rudder but it feels and behaves like the rear wheel is not engaged to the steering mechanism at all. On the last event, I had full left rudder but no effect and I had to apply breaking action to the left wheel to prevent egressing the runway into the grass.

I checked my rear wheel tonight and it appears to be functioning correctly, it locks in place when straight and breaks free when put into a sharp turn.

I am wondering if something in my technique is causing the wheel to break free and I am losing steering capability?


Would really appreciate some thoughts
Well you are taking a good first step, self critique and looking for help. You are clearly not in total control and either landing not aligned with the runway (Crab) or in a drift or a little of both.

Look you should NOT have both main gear tires on the ground until the wing has almost stopped flying. You literally are rolling out ON ONE WHEEL with stick into the wind and anti-weather vane rudder (opposite of stick). The down wind wheel should not touch down until you have almost ALL of the stick into the wind. Rudder is only half of the battle. That just keeps the airplane aligned with the runway, but the ANTI WIND control or dirft is from BANKING, even while on the ground. You can be BANKED on TOUCH DOWN AND ROLL OUT. Not only you can but should. It seems radical at first but its a must to master.

YOU NEED THE HORIZONTAL COMPONENT OF THE WIND TO COUNTER DRIFT. The rudder is only used to align the longitudinal axis of the plane with direction of travel or direction wheels roll.

Suggest you find a cross wind day and practice low passes down the runway with some power and no attempt at landing in a SIDE SLIP. That is the KEY SIDE SLIP.

There are two types of slips,

FORWARD SLIP is when the side of the plane is FORWARD

SIDE SLIP is when the side of the plane is on the SIDE (meaning no crab, airplane fuselage is aligned with its flight path).

With a Fwd slip you have way more rudder in and the side of the of the airplane is going forward or into the wind.

A SIDE SLIP requires a balance of aileron and rudder to counter the cross wind component. The only way to counter cross wind is with the Horizontal component of lift, meaning you are banked. You can practice side slips away from the airport. Find a straight road you can fly fairly low over 500-1000 feet safely, that has a good cross wind. Than fly up and down the road in a side slip (fuselage aligned with road). It helps if the road has a land mark at the end to uses to detect drift, yaw or crabbing.


You can't or should not land in a crab and you can't or should not land in a forward slip. Trikes are forgiving, taildragger may get you Mr. Toads wild ride.

Practice as I suggest over the runway or over a road. Learn to fly wing low (windward side) with the fuselage aligned with the runway. Fly down the runway 5-20 feet above with some power. Altitude is not important but drift and longitudinal alignment is. If you drift, more aileron. If your fuselage is not aligned with runway, add more or less rudder. Look down to the runway end to judge drift and alignment. Play with them until you are COMFORTABLE WITH HOLDING CROSS CONTROL and making fine adjustments without thinking about, while keeping the wing low, no crab tracking of runway, in a SLIP. What kind of slip? Side slip of course.

Now the touch down. COMMON mistake is to relax the anti-wind side slip controls when the first (windward) tire touches down. The trick it to HOLD the side slip on touch down and KEEP the controls PRO side slip and increase those cross control deflections (aileron and rudder) to keep the down wind wheel OFF the runway as long as possible. YOU NEED BANK TO KEEP FROM DRIFTING, EVEN WITH ONE TIRE ON THE GROUND.

Pilots are afraid to land in a bank or on one wheel. Its a must. However keep in mind x-winds can exceed plane limits. In large Jets with wing mounted engines the limit is dragging the engines. In a RV the limiting factor is probably a little of everything, rudder authority, wing tip clearance and just its low weight, but the real limiting factor is pilot skill. There is always GO AROUND, add power and takeoff. Cross control IS NOT natural for many pilots but is a needed skill for landing in x-winds.

The other method some use is the KICK it straight in the last foot before touch down. That may work in a Trike but will get you in trouble. The other TRICK is landing in a crab. Tail draggers are not that hard and will tolerate a little "kick it straight" and a little landing in a "Crab" technique but you should learn to land aligned with the runway in a controlled way. With large jets some time you have maxed out the slip and can't bank any more and need to land in crab or kick it straight, due to engine clearance. You may use all three in a Jet under severe conditions, side slip, crab and kick in. With Jets we have the advantage of landing spoilers that kills the lift and plants the plane firmly. Of course 300,000 lbs does not hurt.

You will touch down at say 50 mph but you should not stop flying until you are to taxi speed (or tied down). So you'll hold that down wind wheel off until you have almost ALL the aileron in. Of course if windy, you need to hold the controls in the common anti0wind positions.

TAXI: I think some one on these fourms said picture the direction a HAT would blow in the wind: Winds from the Fwd quadrants, Opposite the way the hat blows (up elevator & into the wind). Winds from the aft quadrants, In the direction the hat would blow (down elevator & away from the wind).

In years of flying RV's there was ALWAYS enough rudder.

Good Luck and pick your days for cross wind and limited to smaller cross wind components. However do not accept any (ANY) drift or forward slip on landing (crab) and hold that down wind wheel OFF as long as possible. IT IS FUN TO ROLLOUT ON ONE WHEEL. Once the down wind wheel is on the ground you have full weight on the wheels and and control of the plane.

I did not mention, but I land in a tail low wheel landing attitude, especially in cross wind. You don't want to over do it, but a little extra speed gives you a more control. Trying to land in wind near stall in a three point is not the way to go IMHO. When you get good you can do a wheel landing touch and go and even with out a X-wind you can "fly" down the runway while rolling on one wheel. Bob Hoover did this in his act, but he would hop up and put the other wheel on the runway and dance back and forth on one main or the other. Not suggesting you do that, just illustrating what can be done. I never tried it, but do think I achieved proficiency in cross wind landings. The trick? Practice.
 
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steve murray said:
On the last event, I had full left rudder but no effect and I had to apply breaking action to the left wheel to prevent egressing the runway into the grass.


I've had similar experiences. I guess I'll be the odd man out here and ask why is it wrong to consider uneven brake application one of the tools at your disposal? I've done the same. Usually as I decelerate through maybe 35 kts on the roll-out. Rudder starts to loose effectiveness, etc. It's worked for me so far, but I'm still a rooky and haven't had to deal with anything greater than a "stiff" x-wind.....
 
Tail wheel springs?

1) Configuration - do you have the stock tailwheel and screen door springs? Or are you using somethign difernt?

Paul may be on to something here. If you've got springs, check the adjustment. I have seen people adjust the tail wheel springs way too loose. Put some weight in the plane and the situation gets worse. This could possibly be why you're not getting tail wheel steering. Try getting in the plane and have someone watch your tailwheel, make sure you've got plenty of steering control. Loose tail wheel springs can make for interesting off runway excursions, one of the above posters knows!!!
Good Luck!
 
Forget technique for the moment and FIX YOUR STEERING. If you have FULL application of rudder and aren't getting any response, then your tailwheel has likely broken free...or the chains are way out of adjustment.

Too much grease in the tailwheel pivot can cause the key to stick in the shaft, allowing the control horn to swing freely relative to the tailwheel. That's just a starting point. Check your springs as well...consider upgrading to a Rocket steering link (very positive control).

Take a close & objective look at this mechanism.
 
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Do you have one of the steering links installed that replaces the kit supplied springs and chains?

If so this might be some of the problem.
I personally have a strong dislike for them.

All of them I have seen cause the tail wheel to break out when the rudder hits about 2/3 of full travel. You should be able to use full rudder deflection without it activating the breakout function. This should only happen when a side load is applied to the tail wheel (such as turning sharp with with one brake applied).

As already mentioned, if you have the chains and springs they may be set too loose. I prefer them "slightly loose" so that you have a small amount of rudder movement without the tailwheel moving. This reduces the sensitivity when steering at highspeed with the rudder.
 
What was the crosswind.

In my experience on grass and gravel, where tail wheel steering is far less effective than on bitumen, the -8 and the -7 have ample rudder to handle 20KT.
Steve, just how strong was the crosswind. As some one said earlier, start off in a gentle breeze and work your way up.
I would like to reiterate my earlier comments. Years ago I gave a lot of tailwheel endoresments on the Tiger Moth- the only thing available at the time.
The Tiger is a handful on the ground. Impossible to taxy in much over 10KTS and has NO BRAKES and only a tailskid. At slow speeds to keep it straight it is often neccessary to give a burst of power to make the rudder effective, which is embarassing if the fence is coming up.
So what becomes really apparent when flying the Tiger, is that as soon as any swing is percieved you must boot FULL rudder and then centralise it before it goes the other way.
We all learn to do this after a few hours and don't realise how active we are on the rudder in limiting crosswinds. As an instructor you are in a sitiuation where you get to observe these things.
When flying a tailwheel you need to always keep in mind that it is dynamically unstable on the ground and the rudder and tailwheel are fighting to keep the C of G behind the main gear.
And as for brakes. Use them. I have used them to keep a 777 on the runway in Hong Kong in a 50KT crosswind in a typhoon. It works.
Pete.
 
Don't be bashful

Just one more thing comes to mind besides all the good ideas which others have offered. Don't be bashful with your feet! Active feet are a must in a tailwheel.

Tim
 
Keep on trying????

that is how I got by it,my aircraft solo is a little nose heavy so I do wheel landings and moves my feet on the brakes,to be ready,as soon as I touches the ground,and keeps the tail up for as long as possible,I use the same method with passenger if there is crosswind.
then you can avoid a ground-loop.
I got scared a couple off times,but was lucky,I keep my feet on the brakes when I taxi, just in case,there is a gust.

sincerly
Jorn Moller
OY-RVS RV8
300 hours
 
Brakes good and bad, happy feet

Brakes are great just be careful. Most of the time I stay off them, in a strong cross wind, use them U-betch-A. Just keep in mind too much brakes can get you in trouble, but "dragging the down wind brake" helps but use your rudder option first.

The Happy feet comment - good advice, small jabs to counter a drift with stops back at natural. KEEP IN MIND, if the tail wheel is firmly planted you want the tail wheel straight if you want to go straight. If you put an input into the tail wheel, you'll turn and keep turning until its straight again. Its much like you drive a car down the highway at high speed, small corrections and take it out back to center, than small correction again as needed. Dancing feet in calm weather little or no rudder or tail wheel movement is needed. Don't dance the pedals just for the sake of it. If its gusty, than you will be busier with the feet. Over controlling is as bad as under controlling.

If you are going straight than leave the rudder alone. Drift - small correction to counter and back to center, need more correction, pump a gain, small quick, precise inputs but back to center. If you have full rudder and you are drifting brakes are great, but I have never got to that point in a RV-4, in all kinds of weather and cross winds, except once, that needed brakes. That was a strong gusty wind on a slick rain soaked runway. Rolling out the plane was going straight in the right direction but was skidding walking sideways, BUT directional control was maintained, meaning it did not weather vane. I did use some brakes, but I was going pretty slow by that time.

There have been some RV accidents thought to be due to inadvertent brake application, especially related to rudder pedal mods which put your feet in a different postion. You should be able to move full deflection without dragging the brakes; just be careful.

steve murray said:
tail now on the ground, I have found myself going to the right edge of the runway. I keep adding more left rudder but it feels and behaves like the rear wheel is not engaged to the steering mechanism at all. I am wondering if something in my technique is causing the wheel to break free and I am losing steering capability?
I guess there could be mechanical issue, but if the wheel is free castering for some reason, the rudder and brakes should keep you going straight. You may want more detent pressure? Its possible during you landing the rudder is deflected when the wheel is down and you break it out to free swivel? Also are you holding full back stick? FULL BACK STICK, I MEAN ALL THE WAY INTO THE STOP, GUT or OTHER BODY PART, WHAT EVER HAPPENS FIRST. FULL FULL BACK STICK I YOUR FRIEND.
 
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aileron

I would pay close attention to George, he said it right. Its not the rudder that keeps you from drifting off its the aileron. With a strong right cross wind you should have enough right aileron to land on the right wheel. A little dose-e-doe with the left rudder keeps it going straight. With a right cross wind you might notice your right foot is flat on the floor doing nothing and your dancing with the right aileron and the left rudder. If you start drifting off to the left, carnk in more right aileron and dance on the left rudder just a bit. U cant let off that right aileron even when the tail gets on the ground or it will turn left on yee. Practise practise practise

The worst I eva saw was I lannded a Piper Arrow in 40 kts at 290 while landing on rwy 32. I had the left aileron all the way to the stop.