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lr172

Well Known Member
I have purchased the ND 35A alternator(14184) and Van's bracket for my RV-6A (IFR equipped). However, I started adding up my electrical requirements and it just won't work. My standard load is 20 amps, which is fine. Once I add in 10A for Pitot Heat, 7A for Nav lights, 8A for Landing light, 5A for seat heaters, etc. I could end up using the battery reserve more than I like for IFR conditions. With the field current, I bet I can't get more than 30 net amps from this alternator and don't like the reliability running it near capacity most times.

I purchased an ND 14158 altterator that is 50 amps and also rotates CCW. However, the the mounting ears are not consistent with the 14184. They are wider apart and the front ear is 1/8" further from the pulley. I cannot use the van's bracket without modification. I tried to use my old generator bracket and that would have worked if the front ear wasn't 1/8" farther from the belt center line. The pulleys are so close together that 1/8" is too much to accept without a lot of belt wear.

My research indicated that several people here have used the larger ND alternators on the Van's mount. I found a 14131 alternator (45A) that appears to fit the civic that the 14184 came from (the 14158 came from an accord.). Does anyone know if this will fit? Any other recommendations?

I appreciate your assistance.

Larry
 
Depending on the measurements, I have had success with shimming the main mount bolts with washers to align the alternator pulley with the flywheel pulley.

Dunno if this will work in your situation.
 
PCHunt said:
Depending on the measurements, I have had success with shimming the main mount bolts with washers to align the alternator pulley with the flywheel pulley.

Dunno if this will work in your situation.
Click to expand...

I wish! On the generator mount, the config on the proper side of the ear leaves me 1/8" forward (need to remove, not shim). If I flip the alternator to the back of the ear, I lose an 1" of clearance due to the cylinder interference and feel that I will not have enough belt adjustment room without hitting the cowl.

I have been contemplating building up the ear of the generator mount with welding rod and re-machining. However, I have no mill and it is not easy with sanding gear. It is my last resort.

Similar issue on the Van's mount. As I a writing this, I am thinking that I'll just bite the bullet and weld. As I look at it, I may be able to weld up the vans' mount without machining.

Thanks,

Larry
 
ACS sells a universal bracket for boss-mount alternators. Has slots for the mounting bolts and is blank for the alternator bolt. Worked fine for me.
 
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Note that not all ND alternators are the same wiring wise, especially Hondas.
If you are following the generic (Vans, PlanePower etc) schematic for the 'sense' lead for running an indicator light, late model Honda alternators use this lead for a different purpose (zero to 5volt) and if you hook a 12volt light to it the alternator will go into an overcharge state & fry shortly after. Check your car alternators specific schematic to be sure.
 
WingsOnWheels said:
ACS sells a universal bracket for boss-mount alternators. Has slots for the mounting bolts and is blank for the alternator bolt. Worked fine for me.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately I do not have the boss. It is the style that uses 3 case bolts.

Larry
 
Ralph Inkster said:
Note that not all ND alternators are the same wiring wise, especially Hondas.
If you are following the generic (Vans, PlanePower etc) schematic for the 'sense' lead for running an indicator light, late model Honda alternators use this lead for a different purpose (zero to 5volt) and if you hook a 12volt light to it the alternator will go into an overcharge state & fry shortly after. Check your car alternators specific schematic to be sure.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up. I am using externally regulated versions of the ND alternator.

Larry
 
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