[Davepar]

I was blindly drilling out the holes in the tip-up canopy skin and made a minor screw-up. One of the #40 holes came out right next to an existing 1/8" splice plate rivet.

This hole:

came out here:

My choices seem to be:
1. Forge ahead and use a 3/32" rivet there next to the 1/8" rivet.
2. Fill the #40 hole with epoxy and leave the 1/8" rivet in place.
3. Remove the rivet, drill out the hole to #10 and replace with an AN509-10 flat head screw.

I'm leaning toward option 3 at the moment. The only drawback is that there's not quite enough edge distance on the canopy frame underneath the splice plate for a #10 screw. The material is plenty thick enough to countersink for the #10 screw head.

Dave

 

[Scott Will]

Yeah, I found that too! Van's better update their drawings to make this align. I hadn't riveted my splice plate in so I used new ones. I didn't drill that hole and used the skin as my guide.

For you, I'd probably do option 2 or 3.

 

[DeltaRomeo]

FWIW Dave,

I did the same thing. I opted for #1 (put in a rivet).

It looks cool from the left seat .

Best,

 

[robertahegy]

I did # 1 option. Been flying for a year and a half with no problems. There's enough overbuild there that one little misplaced rivet won't matter. Just be careful when bucking or squeezing that 3/32 so the shop head looks nice.

Build on,

Roberta

 

[RV7Guy]

JB Weld

Clean it up, tape the back and fill with JB Weld, sand smooth and you're done.

Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
Also a victim of this

 

[Davepar]

Thanks for the advice. You're right Roberta. There are 4 other rivets on just the one half of the splice plate. It's not going to fall apart. I think I'll just stick a rivet in there and move on. I'm ready to be done with the canopy.