[GAHco]

I am re-posting this in General Discussion as It got some response in RV6/RVA/ Now I need help? Anybody? Ail Trim cable.


I just did not get what I was looking for.
________________________________________________________________

This is probably common to most models so chime in.

I am wiring the left wing of my 6, I have electric aileron trim and I am running the 5 wire Ray Allen cable through the wing and then out.

The question is where do you put the hole in the rear spar?

It seams to me that it needs to be just outboard, of the inboard aileron bracket, but high, or low, I didn't know.

It will need some kind of slack to allow comfortable full travel of the left aileron without causing interference.

If you have done this or seen it done and work well over a period of time, let me know.

I saw nothing in Vans supplement that came with the kit.

I would appreciate your kindly assistance, measurements, photos, etc.

Thanks, Tom

 

[Rick6a]

Tom,

Using a 5 pin Radio Shack connector supported by a simple bracket, I routed the trim cable to the outboard wing rib then through the wiring conduit. If need be, removing the aileron will be greatly simplified. The electric elevator trim was done in a similiar manner.

 

[GAHco]

That looks pretty good

Tom,

Using a 5 pin Radio Shack connector supported by a simple bracket, I routed the trim cable to the outboard wing rib then through the wiring conduit. If need be, removing the aileron will be greatly simplified. The electric elevator trim was done in a similiar manner.

That looks pretty good, what kind of quick disconnect did you use?
I'm still thinking of putting it closer to the servo so I don't have to run the wire though the whole aileron, but I have not yet made up my mind. The ease of maintenance your picture shows is tempting.

 

[mannanj]

Trim

Tom:

On the 8 the aileron trim servo is connected to bias springs connected to the stick torque tube, all in the cockpit underneath the seat. Probably not relevant to your situation. The 8, being narrower than the side by side models doesn't suffer as much from out of balance fuel conditions, therefore doesn't need as much lateral trim input. In fact, I set my ail. trim on the second flight and haven't touched it since. I switch tanks every half hour.

On the elevator trim, I used DB-9 computer 9 pin connectors underneath the fairing. Easy to disconnect should you ever have to remove the left elevator.

 

[Rick6a]

...........what kind of quick disconnect did you use?......

...On the 8 the aileron trim servo is connected to bias springs connected to the stick torque tube, all in the cockpit underneath the seat. Probably not relevant to your situation.....

Tom,

Mannan is referring to this spring bias system. He's right. It is a completely different animal than the trim arrangement in our 6A's. My only thoughts about it at the moment...as I continue construction...is that it imparts a bit of resistance to sideloads on the joystick by virtue of the springs so you don't get that virtually friction free feel I love with the older design.

The "quick disconnects" you asked about are what I already mentioned. They are the 5-pin connectors purchased from Radio Shack. They simply mate together like any typical male and female receptacle and friction keeps them joined. Mounted through the bracket, I tied Dacon (wire bundle) cord around the 5-conductor wire to the bracket in an effort to prevent the unlikely possibility of vibration ever working the components loose.

 

[osxuser]

I believe all the 'new' RV kits (-7, -8, -9, -10) use the spring bias system for aileron trim. If I was building a '6, I'd consider looking at the -7 setup and maybe just copying that.

 

[AntiGravity]

Useful picture for later on...

Hey, Rick, you don't have a slightly larger version of this picture do you? I'll be doing this to my -8 at which ever point it is required and your picture speaks volumes.

Cheers,

 

[GAHco]

Thanks Guys.

I do appreciate all your efforts

I have installed the RC Allen / Mac type servo in the aileron itself several years ago and made my custom (not ugly Vans) trim tab, so I have a bit invested time and money wise.

I have been thinking about it and will try something tomorrow.
I will let you know what I come up with.

Doesn't look like too many have installed the electric aileron trim, so unless more have experience with the same setup, I am going to give it a go with what I know.

I did make my aileron gap seals removable and I think that will help my installation, inspection, and maintenance easier.

Thanks again.

 

[grantcarruthers]

Maybe stupid question???: if you have/plan an auto pilot is there any reason for aileron trim??

 

[GAHco]

It's a good question Grant.

Maybe stupid question???: if you have/plan an auto pilot is there any reason for aileron trim??

It's a good question Grant.

I bought the wing and trim kit 7 years ago, and now with the forum I am exposed to more & more mostly useful information.

An autopilot would take care of the wings level thing very well.

I will most likely put one in, and most likely, infrequently use the aileron trim, but it will be there if/when I need it.

I do plan on a lot of non autopilot engaged flight and I would like to be able to adjust the trim to hands off regardless of passenger of fuel load, while tooling around.

 

[n2prise]

Auto pilot and aileron trim

It sounds as if you understand why both aileron trim and an autopilot get installed. I had my A/P fail on a trip to Florida and had to fly it by hand on the 600-mile return trip. The aileron trim on the RV-9A uses the bias spring tension method, but my trim handle is in a box in the hangar, not in the airplane. Does that give you an idea of how often I used trim in 232 hours of Hobbs time on the airplane? And yes, I too, change fuel tanks every 30 minutes.

Jerry K. Thorne
East Ridge, TN
RV-9A - - N2PZ

 

[Mel]

Keep in mind that the A/P trim is only effective when the A/P is ON.
I have the manual roll trim in my -6. I switch tanks every 5 gals. I use the roll trim rarely, but it's handy. At one time I removed it because I used it so infrequently. But, by the next annual condition inspection, I put it back in.
Of course I also removed my A/P because I used it so infrequently. I haven't missed it at all.

 

[GAHco]

Thanks.

It sounds as if you understand why both aileron trim and an autopilot get installed. I had my A/P fail on a trip to Florida and had to fly it by hand on the 600-mile return trip. The aileron trim on the RV-9A uses the bias spring tension method, but my trim handle is in a box in the hangar, not in the airplane. Does that give you an idea of how often I used trim in 232 hours of Hobbs time on the airplane? And yes, I too, change fuel tanks every 30 minutes.

Jerry K. Thorne
East Ridge, TN
RV-9A - - N2PZ

Thanks, that is the scenario I would like to avoid.
I would bet your handle is installed now.

 

[L.Adamson]

Maybe stupid question???: if you have/plan an auto pilot is there any reason for aileron trim??

There are auto-pilots out there, that let you know of an out of trim condition, using warning lights. And there are auto-pilot accessories such as TruTraks automatic trim system that compensates for out of trim.

I don't like the thought of applying A/P to out of trim conditions to start with. Although somewhere along the line, the A/P will be compensating unless you turn it off, to really know.

The TruTrak "automatic trim" system; whether elevator, ailerons, or rudder, uses the aircraft's electric "trim motor/servo" to make trimming changes, and doesn't rely on constant pressures against the elevator or aileron control servo.

L.Adamson

 

[GAHco]

Sounds good!

There are auto-pilots out there, that let you know of an out of trim condition, using warning lights. And there are auto-pilot accessories such as TruTraks automatic trim system that compensates for out of trim.

I don't like the thought of applying A/P to out of trim conditions to start with. Although somewhere along the line, the A/P will be compensating unless you turn it off, to really know.

The TruTrak "automatic trim" system; whether elevator, ailerons, or rudder, uses the aircraft's electric "trim motor/servo" to make trimming changes, and doesn't rely on constant pressures against the elevator or aileron control servo.

L.Adamson

Sounds good! I was already thinking Tru-Trak

Thanks, Tom

 

[GAHco]

My local Radio Shack was un-helpful

My local Radio Shack was un-helpful

They tried but could not come up with a connector that would work for me, everything they showed me was HUGE or just not what I could use.
They even looked on their own site since catalogs for them are a thing of the past.

I will surf later and see what I can find.

It's these little details that slow done the aluminum construction which is what I like most.

 

[Rick6a]

My local Radio Shack was un-helpful.....They tried but could not come up with a connector that would work for me, everything they showed me was HUGE or just not what I could use.....
They even looked on their own site since catalogs for them are a thing of the past.....

A few days ago, I decided to wire in the electric trim system and went to Radio Shack seeking connectors. You are right, the connectors I used for the servo's are no longer available. The type shown below was purchased a few years ago. However while I was there, I did buy the 9 pin connectors. I decided to make the trim LED's "quick disconnect " so they can be easily removed during the course of construction. Those same 9 pin connectors can easily be used with trim servos located elsewhere.