M

markscogg

Well Known Member
Is this a Van's 30 amp alternator? Is it from a Japanese car? (If so, what make and model?)
altbackka7.gif


altfrontss0.gif


Thanks
 
Off the top of my head

Its a pre 80's nippondenso, 35 amp/12 volt, CCW rotation, external voltage regulation, external fan.

The universal Lester part # 14197

Used On: (1975-73) Honda Civic 1.2L, 1.5L

Alternator wiring:
F = Field (goes to voltage regulator F terminal)
N = Neutral OR stator neutral junction - (goes to voltage regulator S (stator) terminal)
B = B-lead or battery lead (goes to battery/main bat buss)

Voltage regulator:
A = (+) Voltage regulator power, from main buss, 5 amp fuse/CB, "Master/Alternator' switch to 'A' terminal.
I = Ign/light - Ignition terminal on voltage regulator goes to 'charge light', which is connected to positive power supply (main buss). The 'charge light' can be left off. It's optional but recommend it. If you don't want leave unconnected.

Don't forget fuses or fusible links or Circuit breakers where needed. If you need help write me off line. A old Honda car manual will give you an idea of how to wire.
 
Last edited:
Diode?

Is that an external diode on the Battery terminal?

Is it a later add-on, or is it part of the alternator?

gil A
 
I have one about like it on my RV-6. Mine is from a Nissan. I recently had to replace it. The main ball bearing in the drive end failed after just over 200 hours of operation. The drive belt was not excessively tight. I'll be watching it closely at every oil change from now on.
 
hngrflyr said:
I have one about like it on my RV-6. Mine is from a Nissan. I recently had to replace it. The main ball bearing in the drive end failed after just over 200 hours of operation. The drive belt was not excessively tight. I'll be watching it closely at every oil change from now on.
Click to expand...
Ball bearings are standard items and easy to replace. There will be a number on them like 3206, and any bearing supply house will have them for pocket change. Loosen the belt and give the pulley a spin; if it rumbles, pop a new bearing in.
BTW, you can help yourself by knowing something about bearings and what grades they come in. Electric motor grade bearings are higher tolerance and better quality than the same number in a standard bearing. Also, you can specify sealed, shielded (one or both sides) or open bearings (no shields or seals). Electric motor grade, double shielded bearings are a good choice for alternators.
 
I worked in industrial maintenance for 40 years and was a machinist/tool maker, for several of those years. I'm quite familiar with ball bearings. This failure took me by surprise because the alternator was new when I purchased my RV-6. The outside race turned in the casting, rendering the casting unusable. It was cheaper to replace the alternator than fool with it.
 
Gary Bricker

Use a 3206FF or a 206FF in a BCA,Timkin, or NTN brand. The FF means it is sealed. A 206 SS is only shielded. As bad as I hate to say it Auto Zone does handle Timkin. They have a few good parts.
 
WATCH IT HOT!

Also this is clearly from Van's because the fan is removed. Van takes the stock fan off. I suppose this reduces HP loss but also makes it run hot.

YOU HAVE TO BE VERY Careful to not over load this alternator especially after start and on the ground. The scenario is you start and the battery is drawing 7 amps to recharge and you start piling on lights and radios. On the ground there is not a lot of air moving around the cowl and you melt the alternator. Also its 1970's technology.
 
gmcjetpilot said:
Also this is clearly from Van's because the fan is removed. Van takes the stock fan off. I suppose this reduces HP loss but also makes it run hot.
Click to expand...

Could be because the alternator is turning the opposite direction on the plane than on the car.
 
Mark,

Check with Tad. He knows some guy up this way who rebuilds alternators for a good price.
 
Alternator repair

There is pilot who has an alternator shop in Monroe, NC.
Dropped it off there today.
If he can't fix it, I will go to Autozone, to look for a Civic alternator.
It was working, just had a bent pulley and bearing was a little rough.
Thanks for the help.
 
markscogg said:
There is pilot who has an alternator shop in Monroe, NC.
Dropped it off there today.
If he can't fix it, I will go to Autozone, to look for a Civic alternator.
It was working, just had a bent pulley and bearing was a little rough.
Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...

The old Vans 35A alternator is the following unit:

NipponDenso as used on 1976-1979 Honda Civic CVCC without air conditioning. A common number you can find in Duralast and other reman alternators is 14184. The Beck/Arnley number is 186-0100.

My first one ran fine for five years until the stupid pilot in my plane ran the battery down one cold morning and the little alternator shot 49 amps into the battery for a couple of minutes. Guess I, uh, he cooked the diodes.

The replacement I purchased at Advanced Auto Parts (as long as I own the '77 Honda Civic I have a life-time warranty!!) per the above info is still working fine, and I left the fan in place. I figured air in motion, even if moving the "wrong" way, was better than no fan at all.

Advanced Auto Parts (wow, $14.99!!)
http://tinyurl.com/3do5gg

AutoZone
http://tinyurl.com/32f7jv

Napa
http://tinyurl.com/3x96gb

Don't use the alternator on your plane to charge a completely discharged battery!
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.