Adam Oke

Well Known Member
I have a couple black markers that came in a kit and someone made mention about using blue vs. black due to carbon content and corrosion. So I shot out an e-mail to Sharpie asking about corrosion and products to be used. I received this e-mail back.

Hello Adam,

Thank you for contacting us about suggesting a marker for your application.

The T.E.C. marker is from our Sharpie line of markers and comes in fine point – black only #13401. The ink batch number is printed on each marker. The T.E.C. marker is produced for the shipbuilding and aerospace industry and each ink batch is analyzed by an independent testing laboratory. The ink for the T.E.C. pen is given a letter of certification and a copy of the laboratory analysis which shows a breakdown for all trace elements which can cause corrosion or metal brittleness. Results of the analysis are provided with each ink batch.

We always advise our products be tested in all applications and processes. Please let us know if you require further information.

Have a good day, Adam, and thank you for your interest in our product.

Beverley McArdle
Consumer Affairs Representative
Sanford Brands - A Newell Rubbermaid Company
2670 Plymouth Drive
Oakville, ON L6H 5R6
Phone: 905-829-5051 x4308
[email protected]

000731773A

With that in mind .... who here uses blue? :rolleyes:
 
I can't speak for Sharpies, but you definately don't want to use a lead pencil on exhaust pipes or to a lesser degree on cylinders. The lead(graphite} will cause the pipes to crack right along the mark.....
 
Adam
At least they replied to you. When I asked, their reply was that the contents were "proprietary". I've always preferred the red Sharpies. I find that the red mark is easier to see. I have one of the older Pre-punched (not matched hole) RV-8A kits. I had to draw center lines on my ribs and bulkheads, so that I could transfer the holes from the skins and spars to them.
Why take a chance. Avoid the black, use red or blue instead. They are easier to see, anyway.
Charlie Kuss
 
What if you clean it off...

...with acetone after you drill, trim or otherwise form?

Sounds like M&P department overkill to me.

Jim Sharkey
 
I can't speak for Sharpies, but you definately don't want to use a lead pencil on exhaust pipes or to a lesser degree on cylinders. The lead(graphite} will cause the pipes to crack right along the mark.....
Lead (graphite) pencils work on aluminum very similar to a a scribe only with delayed results!
 
For me, the risk due to marking aluminum with various color Sharpies ranks just below being hit by an asteroid.:D
 
I am definitely not a chemist ... but I can imagine that the composition of each ink batch at the "marker mill" has minimal changes varying from colour to colour.

My take on the situation is that the ink used is likely the same throughout with minor changes for colour variation. The "certified ink", I can only assume, is the same as non-certified ... but comes with the stamp. Much like experimental Lycomings vs. Certified.

So my hunch is that certified, non-certified, black, blue, red, pink, yellow ... all sharpies will have the same recipe with very minor deviation.
 
After 2,178 flying hours over 11.25 years, my RV is going to fall out of the sky because I used Red, Blue, and Black Sharpies during building.

I found that all three colors would bleed through primer. Need to clean everything off before primer if you use primer.
 
I'm so blue

Hi Adam,

When I started building, I was told to use the blue marker. I was at a point where everyone knew better than I about building aircraft and I never questioned this. I mean, c'mon, it's a marker. And it does show thru the primer that I use when I want it there, and it cleans off easily when I don't want it to show. I use all the other colors I have for marking everything else I have the need to mark. Blue is for the plane. It almost feels wrong to grab for any other color marker than blue.

I mark brass for ammunition reloading with Sharpie (TM) markers and have never noticed any correlation in the marks on the brass I've made with any brass failure that I've experienced. I have used all colors for this and hadn't even thought that there was a potential for a corrosion issue. But, it's brass not aluminum.

I bet you are right that the big drums of ink at the pen factory are mostly the same and the "special" pens have paperwork backing-up the quality of the ink. But every marker might just pass the exact same standard.

If blue is wrong, I'm in trouble. :eek:
 
I just find it interesting that the majority leans toward a specific colour. Blue. When a non-certified blue is just as "bad" as a non-certified black. No one provides any evidence that blue, black, red etc. promote corrosion. In fact the company doesn't even suggest that the markers promote corrosion. They merely state that a select batch are analyzed to prove they are less likely and those select are stamped.

I wonder where this black marker fear came from. :confused:

Maybe from its other brother the pencil? :rolleyes:
 
As I stated in the thread from March-2008, I use and will continue to use black Sharpie brand markers on my airplane.

As others have said, Pratt & Whitney standard practices specifically prohibits the use of lead or metallic pencils, as this can leave carbon, zinc, copper, lead, or other dangerous residues. This is even more important on engine components than it is on exterior skins, because high heat accelerates carburization and/or inergranular cracking with these trace elements present. If such a mark is applied, it must be removed by an Acetone wipe.

As far as the color of sharpies approved for temporary markings on engine parts, the approved colors are black, blue, red, and yellow.
 
Next you'll tell me that the silver sharpie I used on dark components like the baffle seal will deteriorate the rubber... :eek:
 
If only they made the blue ones that held a point.... Actually, none of the sharpies that I have used seems to keep a decent point - even the really fine ones.

greg
 
Agreed - I've only run one sharpie dry, but I've thrown away 3 or 4 for worn out tips.