jbDC9

Well Known Member
A question for the constant speed prop guys, or more specifically, those with Vans MT governors;

I've flown many CS props, but never with this governor installed on a new engine... I'm curious as to what RPM does the governor take effect during a run-up? And, on a new engine/prop, did the first prop cycle take awhile while waiting for the oil to work thru the system?

I've been running my engine (O-360-A1D, Hartzell blended) a bit at low revs while troubleshooting an ignition problem; today the glitch is fixed, so I ran it up to 1500 RPM while checking it out and decided to try and cycle the prop. Since I was in front of my hangar and not at the run-up pad I didn't want to run it any faster, and didn't have time for a trip to the pad for a higher rev run-up; at 1500 RPM with the prop lever pulled back for maybe 20-25 secs, nothing happened, no RPM drop. Was this due to the low RPM or waiting for the oil to work up to the hub... or perhaps a little of both?

What'cha think?

John
RV-8
Houston, TX
 
John,

I don?t have your governor, mine is a Woodward. Mine will not cycle below 1600-1700 rpm and it takes several tries to get it purged after re installing it after engine OH. Your probably fine.
 
I have the ECI IO-360 with the Blended airfoil prop and an MT governor.
I run up at 2000 RPM and it cycles fine but at 1700 RPM, it doesn't really want to cycle.
FWIW- if I remember correctly, on the break in instructions for my engine, they say to NOT cycle the prop for either 5 or 15 minutes into the first flight, but to leave it in fine pitch and to watch all temps carefully, etc., etc..
 
About the same as others have reported - mine won't cycle below 1750 - I run up at 1800, and it cycles enough to let me know it is working. I have always been warned against deep cycling at higher RPM's - extra load on the parts, and doesn't prove much. I do cycle a couple of times if the oil is cold, just to make sure warmed stuff is getting in there.

Paul
 
MT Govenor

John:

I have an MT Gov. behind a McCauley (don't laugh, I got it for a good price and it might outrun your Hartzell) on my RV-8. The engine is an IO-360-A3B6D out of a Mooney 201 which uses basicly this same prop.

After reading horror stories of RV taildraggers pulling themselves over onto their nose at high RPMs, I choose to do my run-ups at 1700. Cycling the prop at 1700 brings the revs down to 1400 (or less) quite rapidly. This with less than a two inch pull on the blue knob. Just pull it back and shove it forward.

Call me at 770.519.4999 about another problem, possibly related that I had that is too long to go into here.

Mannan Thomason Msgt. USAF (Ret)
RV-8 N161RL (No. One Girl)
Almost 50 hrs. Saving up for paint.
 
MT

John
I have the same setup and had the same issue. On the 3rd engine run I ran it up to 2000 and it finally started to cycle after 15 or 20 seconds.

I run it up to 1700 and never had a problem with it cycling.

Gary Kremers
N715AB 260 hours
 
Me too.

My IO-360M1B, MT Prop, MT Gov. combo behaves as described by others.
However, I no longer exercise the prop, as recommended by John Deakin, who advises that procedure is only required by thousand plus HP recips. and some how has become a procedure on puddle jumpers.
On no take-off have I heard the governor struggling to control the prop and as the revs approach 2700 there is no overshoot or hunting. So Deakin seems correct.
Mind you I don't live in Canada where I believe even Kerosene (Paraffin to some) freezes on cooler days.
Pete.
 
John Deakin, don't follow normal procedures

fodrv7 said:
However, I no longer exercise the prop, as recommended by John Deakin, who advises that procedure is only required by thousand plus HP recips. Pete.
That John Deakin. yea why check the prop.

Hey why check the ignition for that matter, it always works. Carb heat, what they hey, its not sitting on the ramp must still work. Sure skip the prop check, why check it. Hey lets forget a control check while we are at it, they are always free and correct as well. :rolleyes:

I think John Deakin has a better way to do everything. Here is a AOPA article that Hartzell, McCauley contributed to.

http://www.aopa.org/asf/publications/sa06.pdf Check page 6 - Prop exersise.

Respecfully I think John Deakin is 100% wrong. Props and govonors are complicated and need to be checked.

You check the ignition at approx 1700 rpm, where the pressure is high enough to load the ignition. While you are there, why NOT check the prop? It takes 5-10 seconds to pull the prop back slowly and check it once or twice. As soon as the rpm starts to change, push the control back to high rpm. Why not?

Exercise that prop; you will avoid or reduce surge on take off, which is not desirable or good. Pete you allude to some surge. In cold weather it more critical to get warm oil to the prop. Failure to do so may result in an engine over speed.

Some may think you're wearing out your prop or governor by testing it? Well may be its better to get oil and grease moving in the prop, governor and lube the seals under a lower load, getting ready for 100% power and rpm?

All these procedures are determined by designers, engineers, test pilots and the FAA. John Deakin seems to have disdain for either the procedure's or the people that write them. His standard argument is engineers, pilots and FAA does'nt know what they are talking about and procedures are casually written with no thought, based on trivial reasons, like they only apply to large radials. (WHAT?) I'd like to see the proof. Could John possibly be the one missing something? :confused:

Why do we do prop checks:
Forces oil into the prop hub
Prop is responding normally @ min governing rpm **
Prop returns to low pitch
Controls and lines functioning

**( Broken or out of adjusten cable, blocked passage or failed govonor. The later two can lead to overspeed and engine damage.)


Granted a DC-3, B-17 or B-25 has more to check with a feathering circuit and so on, but this does not mean a little prop on a little Lyc is no less important or less deserving of a functional check before takeoff. What if 1,700 rpm normally gives you a 100-200 rpm drop but during check nothing? I don't know? I'm not a prop expert but call you prop and gov manufacture and ask them. I am sure they will tell you to check the prop during run up. Than tell them about John Deakin. John who?

It gives me a funny feeling accepting an experts opinion that's totally different than every FAA approved flight manual. John may have a point, but there's trade offs to no checking. I have seen real smart pilots not do procedures, because they found a better way. at times it led to problems at some point, but sometimes they get a way with it. They may be lucky and never have an issue. It's like run-up. Roll the dice, why do it at all, its always good. :rolleyes:

The day may never come, but if that day comes, when you pull on your prop during run-up and nothing happens, it may be an indication of a small or large problem! Don't you want to know before taking off?

There is no need to go crazy with a prop check and yank on it abruptly or lug the engine down too much. I would recommend following the normal procedures. That's just me. Call me crazy, following normal procedures. What's up with me. The argument that "Its just for big high HP radials" is unconvincing. I will always check the prop on the first flight of the day. There are times on rough strips with rocks I'll not check my prop to avoid blade damage, but thats not normal. Just my 0.02 worth.
 
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Welcome back.

Good to have you back George.
After 100 hours my MT prop needed $1300 repairs due stone damage. I mean from 1/2 screenings on taxiways.
There isn't a lot of bitumen in Aus.
And so I now start up on the Concrete apron. All 20' x 20' of it. Warm the oil to 40?C, check the mags at 1000rpm to make sure the wires didn't fall off overnight.
I then taxi NON-STOP at a good pace and Take-off.
I apply take-off power at such a rate the the RPM arrives at 2700 as if it has been there all the time and so the governor is cruising.
Airborne on the cruise I do a PROPER mag check at 65% power.
Before shut down I DO check the mags in the OFF position before pulling mixture to idle cut-off so that I know my prop is unlikely to bight me if I pull it through.
Since I adopted this procedure I have not seen any stone damage.
Pete.
 
Ahaaa that makes sense

fodrv7 said:
Good to have you back George.
After 100 hours my MT prop needed $1300 repairs due stone damage. I mean from 1/2 screenings on taxiways. Pete.
Ahaaa that is cool. You have a good operational reason. I do the same kind of thing on rough strips, a rolling ignition check for example. I understand now. I thought we where talking about do nothing. I agree with your technique/procedure 100%. Cheers. Clearly judgement and conditons may call for changes in the letter of procedures, as long as some attempt at the spirit of the procedure is made.
 
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Wow.

Wow, George.
Don't know what to say.
Very flattering.
Thank you, 'Buddy'.
Pete.
 
MT

Whirlwind 200RV prop, ECI IO360. Runups at 1700RPM, oil temps at least 90 degrees, 2000 RPM, two slow cycles of prop per Whirlwind recommendations. It will not cycle much below 1800.

During the first 50 hours I was experiencing some significant surging on the prop. Example, when on final and power was added the prop would "grab" like popping a clutch. Slow application was fine such as take off.

At 55 hours a seal went out and oil went everywhere. The prop was removed and sent back to Whirlwind. (Great timing since I was taking the plane out of service for paint after that flight anyway.)

Apparently a seal inside was installed improperly during manufacture and this was the cause of the surging problems and obviously the oil leak.

R&R and it has been great for another 100 hours. Smooth as silk.
 
Thanks for the responses guys... I kinda figured it was just the low RPM causing no response, but couple the low revs with a new prop with no oil in it and it made me wonder. Also, I should've mentioned that although I have lotsa time behind CS props, it's been a few years and I tend to forget these little details. Doh!

RV7Guy said:
Apparently a seal inside was installed improperly during manufacture and this was the cause of the surging problems and obviously the oil leak.

Man, I just hate it when that happens... whether it's a manufacturing defect or another defect missed during an inspection or overhaul, it'll just ruin your day. Back in '91 when I was flying cancelled checks in Cessna 310Rs, I had a prop failure in flight; the right prop had been overhauled 300 hrs prior, but apparently there was a crack in the hub that was missed. Oops. The hub split open just after takeoff and shucked two of the three blades; made a helluva racket when one blade went thru the nose. Yep, I was scared.

Here's the NTSB report;
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id=20001212X18432&key=1
 
Roger, roger over

fodrv7 said:
Wow, George.
Don't know what to say.
Very flattering.
Thank you, 'Buddy'.
Pete.
I don't know what to say. :D With a call sign of "Fod" rv7, you can't be too careful. Just to be clear, I did not mean to lecture you, but your first comment was I no longer exercise my prop because John Deakin says so. It makes sense for your operations, but not for the reason John D says. That's all, Cheers. :D

jbDC9: I did not what to cast dispersions on the MT prop gov, but I have "heard things". It is lighter built than a Woodward, and some prop shops and other pilots have had some marginal comments. Many are very happy with the MT, espcially the price. I have heard from prop shops that the MT Gov's they see come in worn. I'm glad I tracked down an older overhauled Woodward. I am told they wear very well.

Too bad Woodwards new price got stupid ridiculous crazy. If Woodward's management would market to experimentals with discounted units, they would sell a lot of units. May be they are more interested in the turbine market?

Any way if you are not getting response at a reasonable lower RPM it could be anything. It could also just be the nature of the unit. The governor is not putting out the pressure the prop needs at lower RPM's. It could be for many reasons. Find out what RPM is normal, what it takes, and if that changes over time than check it out.
 
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