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prkaye

Well Known Member
I've got my HS skeleton all clecoed together, and have marked the parts with a blue sharpie marker. I've numbered all the ribs etc so that I get the right ones back in the right place when I re-assemble.
However, it occurred to me last night that when I disassemble the whole thing and prime the parts, the primer will cover up my markings. I've been thinknig of various ways to keep track of my parts during priming... just wondering if anyone here has come up with a slick scheme for doing this?
 
here you go

:D

yup.,,, the marker (sharpie) will bleed through the primer... however it may come off if you are cleaning the parts with thinner of some type.

I purchased an electric pen (engraver) at Cdn Tire for 12 bucks or so, and I've put a number on the part and the inside skin (very lightly) that corresponds,
haven't messed up yet.

Mike
 
Write the # on a piece of masking tape and stick it to the hanging wire. It will keep the part identified through all cleaning, chem-filming and priming.
 
Electric engraver

I got a Dremel Electric Engraver at the local HD. I think it was about $19. The tip just vibrates and you can adjust how hard it hits. I etch the PN in every part as I remove the blue plastic. After priming it's easily read, but doesn't stand out. If you didn't know it was there, you'd probably never even notice it. I also try to get it on the inside of the part, you wouldn't want it on the outside of a skin of course. It's on the Dremel website in the tool section.

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/tools/tool-detail.htm?H=188090&G=69667&I=66216
 
Phil,
The Sharpie pen will bleed through the primer. However, if you are Alodining the parts before priming, the Sharpie pen markings will prevent the Alodine from taking hold under the marks. Masking tape or Manilla ID tags on thin wire (available from McMaster-Carr) attached to the wire suspending the part, works well. Once the primer dries, I remark using the Sharpie pen.
Charlie Kuss
 
If you are laying out parts on a table to paint you can mark spots on the table corresponding to the part or just layout Left part on the left and so forth. If you dont like the idea of etching then a combo of methods may work for you. Good luck!
 
One more point about using Sharpie pens. The black pens contain carbon in the pigment. NEVER leave a black Sharpie pen mark on bare aluminum. The carbon will create corrosion under the primer. Either use another color, or clean the pen mark off prior to priming.
Charlie Kuss
 
If I leave the Sharpie on there to bleed through, would that undermine the integrity of the primer? Could the sharpie eventually cause corrosion, or cause the primer on top of it to start coming off?
 
Tag 'em

I made some 1" sq tags from some spare aluminium which I engraved with a number. I cable tie these to the parts and then cut 'em off once I'm done. Sorted!




Cheers,
 
I would be concerned that engraving would create a stress riser and lead to cracks sometime in the future.

I mark with a Sharpie. The acetone I use before priming takes the marking off, although I can usually see a slight difference where the pen mark was and can read the marking even though no color remains. So I lay all the parts out systematically and remark right after using the acetone. As others said, the Sharpie shows thru the primer.
 
The key is very light pressure and a low setting.

Look at your wing spars and center section. The matched numbers on them are etched using a similar, if not the same, device. Only I use far less pressure than those. Again, they are barely perceptable unless you are looking for them.
 
Black Sharpies

chaskuss said:
One more point about using Sharpie pens. The black pens contain carbon in the pigment. NEVER leave a black Sharpie pen mark on bare aluminum. The carbon will create corrosion under the primer. Either use another color, or clean the pen mark off prior to priming.
Charlie Kuss
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info on black Sharpies, didn't realize this and I was always wondering why "blue was the only acceptable color". Phil and I ordered our empennage kits about 48 hours apart so I have been following his posts rather closely.

And Phil, thanks for asking questions I never even thought of. Now where did I put my safety wire and those manila tags?

George Henson
RV-10 Empennage
Regina, Sask
www.mykitlog.com/markerthebar
 
Vans recommends using blue only because it sticks better. I would like to see proof of the carbon based corrosion causing black sharpies.
 
In building the empennage, there are usually only two of a given part, a left and a right. In that case, I use the corner of my bench grinder Scotchbrite wheel to grind a slight dip in an unobtrusive edge of the righthand part, then hit it with the softer polishing Scotchbright wheel. All of the Sharpie markings get removed by cleaning solvents prior to painting, but the parts are easily recognizable, and require no special handling to keep them straight. You can also grind in one, two, three, etc. divots to identify a sequence of parts. Very fast to perform and permanently marked.
 
RScott said:
I would be concerned that engraving would create a stress riser and lead to cracks sometime in the future.

I mark with a Sharpie. The acetone I use before priming takes the marking off, although I can usually see a slight difference where the pen mark was and can read the marking even though no color remains. So I lay all the parts out systematically and remark right after using the acetone. As others said, the Sharpie shows thru the primer.
Click to expand...


I agree!!!! :)
 
Use the tip of a drill to make a small depression in a flange that will be hidden when assembled. One mark means the left side; no mark, right, or whatever consistent scheme tickles you. Real fast. The mark could also carry additional info by displacement toward top, bottom, forward, aft, facing surfaces, etc. If it gets complicated, like tank brackets, work out a system and note it on the drawings. Written marks find a way to get obliterated just before you need them, and might need removal before further finishing, anyway.

John Siebold
 
markerthebarker said:
Thanks for the info on black Sharpies, didn't realize this and I was always wondering why "blue was the only acceptable color". Phil and I ordered our empennage kits about 48 hours apart so I have been following his posts rather closely.

And Phil, thanks for asking questions I never even thought of. Now where did I put my safety wire and those manila tags?

George Henson
RV-10 Empennage
Regina, Sask
www.mykitlog.com/markerthebar
Click to expand...

George,
The ID tags can be found on page 1803 of McMaster Carr's online catalog. That said, I'm sure masking tape or other ways will also work. My 8A project was not matched hole. I found the red Sharpie pens were the easiest to see a "center line" through the pre drilled holes in the skins.

Charlie
 
Tags

Hi,

I did exactly the same as Jeff in NZ as I had all my Emp. parts primed by one of the Airline maintainance facilities here in Hannover. The only slight difference was that I attached the Alum. tags with wire.
None came off and I just snipped them off when assembling.

I also used John Siebold's method on things like the spar doublers where for example I ground a slight edge indentation to show top and side away from spar (which I wrote down for re-assembley after priming)
 
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marking

I read somewhere (RV8tor maybe) about an experienced builder who built his slow build RV in something like four months, about two years ago. One of his time savers/force multipliers, was to perform task once, including priming. All priming done on the same day. He has a lot of space, apparently. Before shooting the primer, he had done all the usual prepping, and had marked everything with a sharpie. Afterward, he could still read the part numbers cuz they bleed through.

My pea sized brain can't keep that much stuff in order, and I did waste a lot of time looking for parts and performing repetitive prep work. However, that guy has a system that works for him...
 
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