C

Crossbow

Well Known Member
Main Wing Spar Question

Hello all!

Just a quick question for those experienced RV-8 builders.

Currently, I am working the RV-8 Wings and I am just about ready to Rivet the Wing Ribs to the Main Spar and Rear Spar. Got the Ribs Primed, Nut Plates installed, Tie Down installed, Holes pre-drilled, and so on.

Now then, it seems to me that one could use a Rivet Squeezer to fix the Rivets on the Rear Spar; so no real problem there for a one person job.

However, can a Rivet Squeezer be used to fix the Rivets on the Main Spar? If possible, I would like this to be a one person job as well.

But since the Flanges on the Main Spar are so wide, it does not seem to me that a Rivet Squeezer could be used. Or is there a way that one person can fix these Rivets with a Rivet Squeezer?

Or is it better to get some Bucking help and fix the Rivets in the conventional way with a Rivet Gun?

Thanks much in advance!
 
Not practical with a normal squeezer. There are some alligator ones out there that could do this. Big $$$$

This is best done with a partner. Rivet the ribs to the main spar first because you can flex the rib out of your way. Then do the rear spar, mostly with the squeezer.

It is not hard to do, just be careful not to damage the spar. Using snap socks on the universal set will help keep your manufactures head nice and help to prevent smileys.
 
I just did this in the last month.

1st wing I riveted solo and did just fine. 2nd I had a helper. Either worked well but a helper is nice. Definitely do the main 1st for the ability to flex the ribs as stated above. It would be SOOOOOOO much easier if you put the manufactured head against the leading edge of the spar but they say the manufactured head should go inside against the thinner material of the rib flange. I did as told and it was a minor PITA. Do look at the limited spacing around the wing walk doubler. I believe I started with ribs 3 then 2 then 1 then 4 and outboard so as to avoid painting myself into too tight a corner so to speak. I was then able to the squeeze the aft spar without trouble.

Good luck
 
Steve, sorry, dont know a thing about the spar.

But, sure would like to welcome you to this site. Good choice to join in here.

You will get the answers for your question, and any others that come up in the future.
 
Thanks for the advice kind people, but it is still not quite what it is needed.

To explain, the Main Spar has Flanges that vary from about 2 1/2 inches to 1 1/2 inches in Height, and the Main Spar is about 7 1/2 inches Wide.

Now then the Avery Rivet Squeezer Yoke that I have is about 1 1/4 inches High and 3 inches Deep; which makes it too narrow to fit over the Flanges and too short to reach the Center Rivets. Therefore, this Rivet Squeezer Yoke cannot be used for setting the Main Spar to Rib Rivets.

Further, I talked to 'Rob' at Avery Tools (who is a very kind and knowledgeable individual) and explained my request to him, and he in turn explained to me that they do not sell anything which would do this job either.

However, he did tell me that Avery Tools can make a Customized Yoke for doing this work if I could send him a cardboard pattern of the needed Yoke Design, but that the cost would be about $1000. He went on to explain that while Customized Yokes are not used very often in RV work, they are sometimes used in military aircraft and other special work (such as missiles) because that is the only way to set certain Rivets.

Maybe I will get something like this for my next RV (or just splurge for the Quick-Build Wings). But for now, I expect to spend this week-end I setting these Rivets in the conventional manner using a Rivet Gun and a Bucking Partner.

Bye for now and thanks much!
 
I would strongly second Brian's suggestion for using Snap Socs (from Avery) if and when you decide to go ahead and buck them. I bucked every rivet myself on both wing spars and didn't have to drill out a single one. Both the factory and shop heads are perfect. No credit to myself, the snap socs are that good. Even though I'm much better at riveting now, I still use them whenever I have any of those "anxiety-producing" rivets to set. Good luck.
 
Crossbow said:
that is the only way to set certain Rivets.

Maybe I will get something like this for my next RV (or just splurge for the Quick-Build Wings). But for now, I expect to spend this week-end I setting these Rivets in the conventional manner using a Rivet Gun and a Bucking Partner.
Click to expand...

Crossbow, there will be tons of places where it will not be practical for you to use a squeezer and several places where you will need a partner. You will need to accept that fact in order to build that plane. Learn how to do it now and it will get easier as you go. Start training you a partner or two for those times you need them.
 
Brantel said:
Crossbow, there will be tons of places where it will not be practical for you to use a squeezer and several places where you will need a partner. You will need to accept that fact in order to build that plane. Learn how to do it now and it will get easier as you go. Start training you a partner or two for those times you need them.
Click to expand...

I agree. I did my -8 spars solo with a gun and bucking bar. One tip: I don't know how much hockey gets played where you are, but I have found the secret to perfect round head rivets is to use hockey shin pad tape. It is translucent plastic (not the fabric stuff that you use on sticks) and somewhat thick. You put a piece over the manufactured head and it provides just enough cushioning effect that the rivet set doesn't bounce. Once the rivet is set, you pull the tape off and the manufactured head looks like it has never been driven.

I went through a couple of rolls of the stuff on my -8.

Cheers
 
A couple thing I would do different

Make sure you drill your ribs in detail if you want wing tip conduit and/or and extra pitot line for AOA. I also seem to remember drilling the leading edge ribs where they mount to the main spar was difficult to reach. I thing the plans have you build up the leading edge as an assembly, take a look at drilling these holes without the leading edge skins installed.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.