txaviator

txaviator

Well Known Member
Again, this is coming from an engine rookie..Sorry for the dumb question.

But- if you are going to store an engine, be it overhauled already, new, or used, what's the best and/or proper way. Let's just say a person is a long way from hanging the engine...

I've seen them in the upright (prop end of the crank facing downward), level (on a converted auto-engine stand), etc.

What's the ideal way, and why? Thanks in advance, everyone.
 
Ideal position would be upside down with enough oil to cover the cam; but, that's not really practical. If the engine is in controlled environment, it really doesn't matter. The main thing is, DO NOT TURN THE CRANKSHAFT ONCE THE ENGINE IS STORED!
 
Storing your engine

Gary:

I can only relate to you my own experience with a new Lycoming I bought from Van's. It was shipped with the long term storage provision, i.e., it was shipped in a heavy duty cardboard box, cushioned by spray-in-foam and the engine itself was sealed in a clear plastic. I asked a Lycoming rep at one of the airshows if there was something I needed to do periodically, e.g., turn it every so often to be sure the preservative oil still coated all the parts, etc. He told me that as long as I never opened the plastic bag, there was no need to touch it. I left it in my garage untouched for three years before mounting it on the aircraft and it was in perfect condtion when I finally removed it.

You'll eventually need to drain the long-term preservative oil (there's not much in there but some) before you're ready to use it. I believe they tell you in teh accompanying instructions to NOT TURN THE PROP until the preservative oil is drained out. After I drained the preservative oil, I knew the engine was still going to be on the airplane for a while before I actually started it. So I would remove the top spark plugs about every three months and spray some Marvel Mystery Oil into the cylinders to prevent rust from forming.

Whether you need to do all that or not, I can't say for sure, I'm not an engine expert. But I can say my engine started the first time I cranked it and has been running like a top ever since despite the fact that it was about five years between purchase and first run.

I'm sure some other RVers can fill in info for other engines and scenarios.

Chris
 
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There are some great engine FAQ's on the Mattituck web site - I think that at least one of them deals with long-term storage. This is a great collection of knowledge from a company that has been building these engines for a whole lot of years.

Paul
 
Engine Storage

Mel said:
DO NOT TURN THE CRANKSHAFT ONCE THE ENGINE IS STORED!
Click to expand...

Why is this? I have an O-360 in storage and I roll it upside down every 6 months and turn the crank through a few revolutions. Why is this a bad idea? The rest of the time it has dryer plugs in the top and light heat in the box.
 
Turning over

You will loose the oil in the cylinders from the pickling and could have some corrosion. (Rust)
 
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Just filler up with oil :). Thats what alot of A&P's I know do, just fill it up with mineral oil, and put in the dryer plugs. YMMV
 
RVadmirer said:
Why is this? I have an O-360 in storage and I roll it upside down every 6 months and turn the crank through a few revolutions. Why is this a bad idea? The rest of the time it has dryer plugs in the top and light heat in the box.
Click to expand...
When you turn the crankshaft, you wipe the oil off the cylinders and leave the bare metal unprotected. See Lycoming Service Letter L180B.
 
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Cylinder Coating

So to get the coating back on the walls I do what? Pull the dryer plugs and spray some oil in the holes? I've heard about "fogging" but am not clear on how to do that.
Thank you for the help, I hate to damage this engine.
DV
 
Storage

The Jan. 19, 2007 issue of General Aviation News has an article on page 13 by their aviation fuels and lube expert Ben Visser about long term storage. Probably can look it up online at www.generalaviationnews.com. if you can't find a copy in your local fbo's office.
 
Really dumb question - fill it up with oil?

Ok, so I've got my engine, and I don't plan on tearing it down for a year, as I won't need it until early/mid 2009. It's a great runout, 2058 tt, flew the day it was removed. Part of me says 'fly the thing, don't touch it' . . .but that's another thread.

The fill it up with oil comment: how full? If I put 2 gal in it, won't it leak out the two open valves (one intake, one exh) that are open just about anywhere in the crank rotation? The rings aren't going to hold the oil in, for sure!

Rick 90432 working wings, engine arrived yesterday.
 
"Engine Saver"

http://www.aviationconsumer.com/issues/36_9/maintenancematters/5585-1.html

In addition to all the excellent advice already given I submit this suggestion. Use a dehydrator. I use the Engine Saver. I have seen it restore the full dryness in the dehydrator plugs with which my Superior came equipped. That's discernable from the color. The added advantage is that you can and should keep using it after the engine is running.

When an internal combustion engine burns gasoline one of the major results of that combustion is water vapor. Although we kid ourselves that getting the engine hot gets rid of the water in the oil, we are only putting more in while we run it. The air in the crankcase is very hot at the time of shut-down. Hot air can hold more moisture. As the engine cools off, it will reach the dewpoint for the gasses in the crankcase. As that happens, water precipitates onto the metal surfaces and the oil. If you fill the case with super-dry air, you lower the dewpoint to below the amient air's temperature. Because the dry air is under a little pressure, it reaches inside the combustion chambers too. My bright, deep blue indicator plugs proved it.
 
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