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alpinelakespilot2000

Well Known Member
Can someone point me to a source that indicates what (if any) lube should be used on the threads of the brass fittings that go into the master cylinders? I looked through 43.13 and millions of brake posts on this forum to no avail. Thanks.
 
What Matco said.

They recommended using some type of lube on the threads. I asked about using Fuel-Lube and they said "yup, that'll work."
 
All npt fittings should have a thread sealent on them. Fuel lube, baker seal, PST, esy turn...as long as it is compatable with the fluid your sealing, it will work.
 
robertahegy said:
I use a teflon sealant made by LockTite. It is a white cream. I think it is # 567?

Roberta
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That would be Locktites high temp PST with teflon. Thats my prefered thread sealent, I use a lot of it at work.
 
Locktite 567 good for fuel line fittings too

Would the locktite PST 567 be good for use on the fuel line AN fitting threads also?
 
on the 37 degree side? It would work fine as an anti sieze, we have to use it on every one of the thousands of stainless fastener we use at work to prevent galling. I believe normaly the 37deg an side is done dry, although I have heard of some people use some sort of antiseize. It wont do anything for sealing, that is acomplished on the mating 37 deg surfaces.
 
I tried everything

fuel lube, teflon, Baker seal and the brake fittings still leaked! I eventually removed them all, applied Baker seal, and tightened the fittings until I thought they would break off. That fixed it! For me, no matter what I used, I simply wasn't tightening the fittings enough. Surprisingly, I got an extra turn or 2 from what I thought was originally tight. Be sure and tighten these things until you think you can't turn any further.
 
hecilopter said:
fuel lube, teflon, Baker seal and the brake fittings still leaked! I eventually removed them all, applied Baker seal, and tightened the fittings until I thought they would break off. That fixed it! For me, no matter what I used, I simply wasn't tightening the fittings enough. Surprisingly, I got an extra turn or 2 from what I thought was originally tight. Be sure and tighten these things until you think you can't turn any further.
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My worry when I did this was I had to get them a FULL turn and it felts like quite a gamble. What if I started and I only got it to the 5 o'clock position? I elected to stop where I was and see what happens.
 
Bob Collins said:
My worry when I did this was I had to get them a FULL turn and it felts like quite a gamble. What if I started and I only got it to the 5 o'clock position? I elected to stop where I was and see what happens.
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Bob-
I think he's referring to the nut portion of these fittings that goes over the ferrule (?), not the part that threads into the master cylinders. I know what you're saying though. I probably could have tightened my master cylinder threads more but wanted to make sure I could go all the way around. We'll see if I went far enough when I put the fluid in later.

The other part of the connection is a regular compression fitting it seems. When I installed my dishwasher, I had to wrench really hard on them too to get them to stop leaking. Not sure if this should be the case, but it was my experience.
 
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