Great, now the "new" foam floats have a SB against them? Lovely lovely lovely... Glad I didn't jump on the bandwagon on that one. Happy with my brass float here :).
 
Well since "certain additives' are causing problems with them, I'd guess NO! Go brass or go home. I suppose the epoxy is a solution if it's resistant to everything.
 
Huuu?

Did you guys read the data on that page?

The new float is not having problems, the old foam ones had problems.

Here is Volare's verbage on what this newer float is made of:

"3. [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman][FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]Background[/FONT][/FONT]: Foam floats may deteriorate in certain fuels and fuel additives. Brass floats, regardless of manufacturer, may crack, leak, corrode, and/or mechanically fail. White plastic hollow floats may leak. Deteriorated, leaking, or broken floats can negatively affect engine performance, regardless of the identity of the manufacturers of such floats. Volare and its immediate predecessor Precision Airmotive have worked arduously to address these issues by developing the first solid, blue epoxy composite float. This float is impervious to the fuels and fuel additives used in the aviation industry today. The solid, blue epoxy float is not a "foam" float. It is not a thermoplastic. It has no soldered or riveted joints. Being solid, it cannot fill with fluid and sink, even if pierced. The float is essentially chemically inert. The stainless steel bracket is cast securely into the float body and is not subject to separation in normal use. This float design has been in production for several years. It is installed in thousands of carburetors, including carburetors sold by Volare and its predecessor to current engine manufactures since its introduction. There are no known cases of failure or malfunction of this design."

For people who hate to read or have trouble with reading technical documents, here is a visual of the ones to replace or keep straight from Volare:


2w5un9e.jpg

osxuser said:
Great, now the "new" foam floats have a SB against them? Lovely lovely lovely... Glad I didn't jump on the bandwagon on that one. Happy with my brass float here :).
Click to expand...

guccidude1 said:
Guys: Has anyone determined/heard if the new foam floats are ethanol tolerant? Dan
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osxuser said:
Well since "certain additives' are causing problems with them, I'd guess NO! Go brass or go home. I suppose the epoxy is a solution if it's resistant to everything.
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LifeofReiley said:
I love my brass float... they can kiss ^#@...
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The "Old" foam float this year was the "new" foam float last year... SB came out, and I opted not to change it... glad I did :). The brass floats last forever almost all the time, they can scuff, and develop pinholes, but it's RARE. The main problem is people trying to solder the pinholes and blowing the darn thing up in their face because the gas fumes inside ignited.
 
I would not put a foam float in my carb for any reason. Brass floats work and perform well if the plane is flown and water is no a factor. I've had brass floats in my aircraft for years (20 +) with no issue. BS bulletin if you ask me.

JMHO...
 
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Yea, its hard to imagine a brass float that has been around for over a hundred years in use in millions of engines could fail. I guess you just have to have someone close to you with a very new engine and carb almost die because one sunk to bring out the fact that they can and do fail.
 
I've got a Marvel Schebler carb typical of these aircraft carbs on my '49 8N Ford tractor. It also has a brass float, and I must say it looks original and functions well. The tractor has tried to kill me before, but the float wasn't the cause. :eek:

Just look at how foam deteriorates in water alone, and they want to put foam in my carb??? NOT! :D
 
Boy did I ever get lucky!

Back in December of 2005 I sent my carb off to Avstar Aircraft Accessories, Inc to get overhauled.

When the float replacement AD's/SB's came out last year I checked with them to see if I should replace my float, the answer was, "Let me check our records. (click, click, click) Here it is, no need. We make our own copper float which we put in your MA3 cab and it is not subject to any of these AD's or SB's."

I like it when things work out like that!
 
LifeofReiley said:
I've got a Marvel Schebler carb typical of these aircraft carbs on my '49 8N Ford tractor. It also has a brass float, and I must say it looks original and functions well. The tractor has tried to kill me before, but the float wasn't the cause. :eek:

Just look at how foam deteriorates in water alone, and they want to put foam in my carb??? NOT! :D
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Reiley,

That is too darn funny!! I thought I'd be the only RV-er who has that ol' reliable 8N... A couple years ago I had it's MB carb apart also. Looked perfect after almost 60 years...

No carb tho on my Superior IO-360 (sure sad to see them go...)

Jerry
 
Jerry Cochran said:
Reiley,

That is too darn funny!! I thought I'd be the only RV-er who has that ol' reliable 8N... A couple years ago I had it's MB carb apart also. Looked perfect after almost 60 years...

No carb tho on my Superior IO-360 (sure sad to see them go...)

Jerry
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I also have an ol' reliable 8N Ford tractor!!

I have a brass float in my MA4-5 that's on my RV.
I wouldn't want it any other way.
I've seen the white plastic float and can't believe it was ever approved!!

Sure, the new float is supposed to be better than all the rest.
Give it 20 years, if it's still working good, maybe I'll switch:D

Mark
 
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OK, so I have the white plastic float in my carb. I think the total time on this carb is less than 50 hours, but I feel compelled to change to the blue-composite float. Can anyone tell me where to get one? I called Jesse at AERO and he sent me an e-mail with a quote for $150. :eek:

It must be cheaper than that, somewhere.
 
lostpilot28 said:
OK, so I have the white plastic float in my carb. I think the total time on this carb is less than 50 hours, but I feel compelled to change to the blue-composite float. Can anyone tell me where to get one? I called Jesse at AERO and he sent me an e-mail with a quote for $150. :eek:

It must be cheaper than that, somewhere.
Click to expand...

I paid $88.17 from AERO for just the float and then ordered the other parts needed alacarte from them as well.

He may have quoted you the kit that contains all the other stuff you will need as well. That price seems close if that is the case, if not might be a mistake.

I have always found AERO's prices to be very good.
 
If anyone pulls a good brass float to do this kit, I'll pay shipping to "properly" dispose of it... to me :).
 
FYI...the Tempest / Volare web site contains a description, parts list, and installation instructions for the carb kit. It is listed as E-1002 Instruction Sheet.
 
Are they getting the literature...

noelf said:
FYI...the Tempest / Volare web site contains a description, parts list, and installation instructions for the carb kit. It is listed as E-1002 Instruction Sheet.
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..translated from Chinese?

3.10 Insure that proper clearance exists between the float and carburetor bowl using gage M-510 and a .081? drill rod as prescribed in Volare? Carburetors Aircraft Carburetor Service Manual. If proper clearance does not exist, the float bracket may be repositioned laterally by loosing the attachment screws, repositioning, and re-torturing as prescribed in Volare? Carburetors Aircraft Carburetor Service Manual.

Don't torture your brackets....:)

And this one is a great example of mixing units...

3.1 Install the float valve seat and 16-224 (.031?) float valve gasket using tool #M-104. Torque to 10-12 foot pounds. NOTE: Initial run-in torque must be at least 6 inch-pounds. If run-in torque is less than 6 inch-pounds, the nylon locking element is degraded or damaged, and the float valve assembly must be replaced.
 
What tool are you using (M-103)?

What tool are you using to remove and reinstalled (torque) the float valve seat? I don't want to spend a bunch for a one time use tool.
 
Here is the tool

Here is the tool I ended up using to remove the float valve seat:

2009-03-15%20029.JPG


It is a chisel that is hex shaped so you can get a socket on it to torque it back it.
 
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