Bubblehead

Well Known Member
Last Tuesday one of my sons and I flew from DeKalb, Illinois, to Lansing, Illinois and then took the Chicago lakefront tour and landed at Janesville, Wisconsin for lunch and fuel. So far so good!

As we departed Janesville the plane seemed a little sluggish, and at about 500 ft AGL the engine rumbled a little and the climb rate slowed. I checked boost pump on (it was), fuel pressure correct (it was, and there was no fluctuation), RPM (2500), manifold pressure (25") and a quick glance at 1 cylinder's EGT and CHT (normal). Since it was still delivering enough power to climb slowly I did not change any settings until reaching 3500 ft. During this time I turned toward DeKalb but kept Janesville and Rockford in sight and watched for alternatives.

I called Rockford Approach and told them I had a rough engine and would like to transit their airspace on a track that would allow a quick entry and landing. The guy at Approach was really great, and it felt somewhat reassuring that I was in communication. I then switched tanks, wit no increase in power. By this time I'm level at 3500 ft and power settings are 2500 rpm and 25" mp but I'm only seeing about 120 kts TAS! The engine would rumble every few minutes and run rough and then smooth out. I don't remember checking EGTs and CHTs. I was mostly concerned with aviating my way home and keeping good landing locations close at hand.

Once close to DeKalb I told Rockford I was changing freqs and would get back to them by phone or radio to let them know what happened. I went to CTAF, announce location and rough engine and several pilots in the pattern communicated they were leaving east to get out of my way! Again, my faith in human nature was confirmed!

After an uneventful landing I asked one of the guys in the pattern to contact Rockford Approach and tell them I was ok. I taxied to the hanger and took the cowling off. I could not see anything out of the ordinary except more oil than usual on the lower cowling. I knew the front seal of the engine was leaking a little but not to this extent. I pulled all the spark plugs, and they all were intact, undamaged, with normal gaps. They showed signs of running rich, which I was not surprised about since I typically err ont he side of caution because I don't have a EMS to help spot peak temps while leaning. Two showed a little oil film.

Next I drained the fuel sumps and the gascolator. I did not find any evidence of water or dirt in either place, although I'm going to pull the gascolator tomorrow. I pulled the fuel inlet screen on the fuel injection system, but it was clean. I replaced the two o-rings and reinstalled and lockwired it.

Just for grins I took of the air intake scat tube where it goes into the horizontal intake. The inside of the tube had some visible oil in it and when I looked into the throat there was an oily film on the butterfly valve. I reached in with a screw driver and scrapped a little off so I could look at it more closely. It was oily and fuzzy, like some paper had discolved in the oil! So I pulled the air cleaner and gave it a thorough inspection, but it looked very clean. No evidence of oil going through the filter or of the filter being carried away was visible.

A couple of local A&P/AI types stpopped by; one a fellow RVer. They looked everything over and the only thing they noticed was they thought I had the wrong plugs. The engine had Champion REM37BY plugs when I bought the plane and I did not question it. I'll check the Champion and Lyc literature later to see if they were right, but we all concluded that the wrong plugs were working correctly for a long time and they would not cause an intermitten problem like I had experienced.

Three other tidbits of info:
1) I recently installed an AWI 4-into-1 exhaust and positioned the breather tube to drop any oil on the exhaust collector. I cut the tubing at the end at a slight angle so air flowing through the cowling would not pressurize the engine and blow oil. Several people here and at other sites have mentioned doing that with good results. There is an oily film on the top of the collector where the breather would discharge oil.

2) the compresion on #3 cylinder was low at the November condition inspection 60/80. We have not checked the compression yet. We'll do that after the plug situation is resolved.

3) The engine uses the two in one magneto and there is no information in the log books signifying that it has been rebuilt. The engine has almost 500 hrs on it so perhaps it's rebuild time for the mags

Some of the things we found are issues but don't seem to add up to a rumbling engine. The engine ran fine on the plugs for the 100 hours I've flown the plane, but it's not one of the faster -8's around it cruised at 8500 ft 150 kts TAS and 9 gph. The oil leak needs to be fixed. In fact I'll start taking the propellor apart this week too, but it would not cause a sudden loss of power.

Any ideas? Oh, and yes, I am very glad the engine did not loose power while at 2400 ft and a mile off the Lake Michigan Shoreline. It would have been much more stressfull!

UPDATE according to the Champion website REM38E is the normal plug but REM37BY can be used if lead fouling is encountered.
 
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...checking the magneto timing... Is it set OK?

The approved spark plug list is here...

http://www.lycoming.textron.com/support/publications/service-instructions/pdfs/SI1042Y.pdf

We did not check the timing yet. That could definitely cause the overall loss of power, but does it explain the occasional rumbling? The rumbling was a vibration and a slight shaking visually noticeable when I looked at the cowling.

Thanks for the link. It looks like the info in that pub matches what I found at Champion.

BTW, I did a mag check on the ground and the mag drops were normal.

asav8tor - I wish I would have checked them in flight. I checked them during the mag check and they looked normal but it would have been better to check them during the event!
 
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#3 cylinder compression low

The timing checked out ok - 25 degrees BTDC.
#3 cyl was down to 45/80, it had been 60/80 for a long time so this is probably the root cause of the power loss. Other cylinders checked ok but I'm thinking about my options. Is it best to do a complete top o/h or should I just do the one bad cylinder?
 
Is it best to do a complete top o/h or should I just do the one bad cylinder?

You can do just the offending cylinder. Rebuild the mag(s) while you are doing the cylinder.

I am concerned about the "stumbling" while you were flying. It could be this cylinder, but it would have been a steady problem. You may have been running too rich and caused carbon to get under the valve seat, but 60/80 is borderline anyway when the others are in the 70's.

Might be a good time to have an A&P look at the entire set up. Idle, mixture setting, idle speed, timing, mags, harnesses, ect.
 
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Another possibility...

I have seen this rumble symptom before from an intermittently sticking valve.
It is possible that you have a valve acting up in one of the cyl that is not low on compression.
I agree that it is time for some in depth engine condition evaluation.
 
Lycoming SB-388...

I have seen this rumble symptom before from an intermittently sticking valve.
It is possible that you have a valve acting up in one of the cyl that is not low on compression.
I agree that it is time for some in depth engine condition evaluation.

...would help to evaluate this.

http://www.lycoming.com/support/publications/service-bulletins/pdfs/SB388C.pdf

Since the failure mode is usually a broken valve stem (often at TO power) an evalution would be a good idea.

See if a local A&P has the fixture... a lot of them don't even know about this SB....:rolleyes:
 
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How much time on those jugs,

-since O/H?
-since new?
-year of last O/H?

How much time on the bottom,

-since O/H?
-since new?
-year of last O/H?
 
As always on VAF, there are lots of good ideas and suggestions. I appreciate you guys taking the time to post. Here are some answers and comments.

asav8tor - The engine has about 500 hrs SMOH in 2000. The plane was licensed in 2001. I put the last 100 hours on it in the last year, so the owners before me only flew it 400 hrs in 7 years. The 60/80 compression was found during the pre-buy inspection and the price was lowered $1,000 to cover a cylinder swap.

az_gila - thanks for the link. I'll bring it to the AIs attention before we pull the cylinder. Seems you always have a link to important information.

rvbuilder2002 - not sure how to check an intermitten sticking valve. Compressions on the other 3 cylinders are 72/80 or better.

Geico266 - the rumbling could have been the engine just running ruff because one cylinder was not developing power. During the incident I did lean (carefully) once at a safe altitude with no improvement. The previous flight was about 2 hours long and the engine was leaned and adjusted several times during it. Power was normal and the engine ran smoothly.

I think checking the valve condition per the Lyc SB is a great idea. I've printed the bulletin and will discuss it with the mechanic.

Perhaps I should pull all 4 and replace them with higher hp pistons and cylinders??? Tempting!
 
LOSS OF POWER

It sounds like a sticking exhaust valve on your low compression cyl. When you do the compression check, see if it's leaking by the exhaust valve. If it is, you can remove the valve and ream the valve guide without removing the cylinder. I recently did this on an Lyc. O-320, which had two exhaust valves sticking. It took about 1.5 hours. I used a .499 reamer. Good Luck
Doug Knab
P.S. It would be a good idea to replace the valve springs with new ones.
 
up the hp?

We're going to check the valves before pulling the cylinders but I think it's more than that. I pulled the intake tubes off today and there were several ounces of oil in the intake sump. I don't know how it would get in there.

I wil definitely get the mags done while the other work is being done. With 500 hrs and 7 years on everything I guess the ignition wires should be replaced too.

If I have to do the top end I think I'd like to juice it up for a little more horsepower. Any ideas?
 
If I have to do the top end I think I'd like to juice it up for a little more horsepower. Any ideas?

Best you check with your propellor manufacturer if you plan on opting for high compression pistons. If you have a Hartzell CS they may give HC pistons the thumbs down.
 
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If I have to do the top end I think I'd like to juice it up for a little more horsepower. Any ideas?

The only top overhaul boosting things I can think of are;
Lyc Dyno proven
1. Flow port and polish the cylinders, angle grind valves
2. Go higher compression on the pistons

To throw out some more unconventional - uncertified options;
1. Ceramic coat the comb chamber, pistons - lower heat proven but not dyno as far as I know?
2. Ceramic coat the intake tubes to reduce heat transfer - ?

I have done a few of these to mine, but can't find a dyno near me so I will not be able to see the exact hp it produces. Bummer.:( But, if anybody knows of a dyno near San Antonio...?
 
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az_gila - thanks for the link. I'll bring it to the AIs attention before we pull the cylinder. Seems you always have a link to important information.

rvbuilder2002 - not sure how to check an intermitten sticking valve. Compressions on the other 3 cylinders are 72/80 or better.

The S.B that Gil referred you too is related to sticking valves. By doing the check in the S.B you are checking for a condition that can cause interm. valve sticking.
 
I would do a full power mag check and see if that showed any problems. If not, check your FI nozzles for obstructions and clean as necessary. If they are good and not the issue, I would look for broken valve spring or similar problem in the valve train. I don't think a cylinder with compression of 45/80 would cause the power loss or actually the poor operation unless something else is wrong with it. Try to get a handle on what is causing the problem before you start taking it apart so you can't run it any more. Once you can't run it, it is real easy to start replacing things on a whim to try and fix it. Expensive approach. BTW the mags are due for 500 Inspection?..always a very good idea with that style mag.
Good Luck,
Mahlon
?The opinions and information provided in this and all of my posts are hopefully helpful to you. Please use the information provided responsibly and at your own risk."
 
maylor_r - I didn't do a full power mag check as I did not want to risk nosing over. I did do a regular mag check several times and the RPM drop was minimal - maybe 100 rpm.

I have already started taking things apart. When I pulled the intake tubes ther was a couple of ounces of oil in the intake sump! The only way I can figure out for it to get there is for one or more intake valves to be leaking badly. After shut down a little of the oil from the top of the cylinder is draining back to the intake sump.

Thanks to everyone for their ideas.
 
Can someone suggest a good cylinder rebuilder

The cylinders are off and ready to ship. Any suggestions on a cylinder rebuilder? There is supposed to be a good one in East Troy, Wisconsin but I cannot find any reference for them on the internet.

I've also pulled the Bendix Mag and will send it to Aircraft Systems in Rockford, IL who are well regarded around here. I'll get the mag rebuilt and the wiring harness checked and replaced if necessary.

I've found a lot of other things while taking things apart. The baffles are a cobbled up design with many parts pop-riveted together. I have ordered a new set from Vans. One nut is missing from the starter mounting, and the screws on the solenoid were loose, possibly from vibratiion when the engine started running rough. The front crankshaft seal had been leaking and when I took the cowl off this time there was an unusual amount of oil on the inside of the cowl. When we removed the prop and flywheel etc. the front seal spring was there but not the seal! I have a new seal in hand and just need to find the Lyc recommended adhesive and we'll put it on.

I know I've opened a can of worms with the baffling but as long as it will be down for a couple weeks for the cylinders and magnetos I might as well improve the plane. I've already straightened out some wiring runs that were not to standard, and I'm going to install the two wiring pass-throughs in the firewall. If the cylinders get delayed I will install the eyeball bulkhead fittings on the engine control cables too.

My condition inspection is due next month so I'm starting to pull the access covers and interior panels off to do the inspection and lubrication work. Hopefully in 30 days I'll be back flying.
 
Is it really worth it to repair or O/H cylinders. ebay them add the money you would have spent fixing them and buy new.......