I just received both a right and left today. They mount on the 2 J stringers in the aft fuse just behind the baggage bulkhead. One is for my let and the other will be for my strobe power supply. I did not see what you are building but these are only for the 7 and 9's. I will post a few pictures from this weekend after I get them installed

-david
 
Left:
850911319_9qzU9-XL.jpg



Right:
850911289_cdqan-XL.jpg
 
ELT brackets

I am using these brackets on my RV-9A, left one for the strobe power pack, right one for the ELT.

Be sure to check the clearance between the flanges of these brackets and the rudder cables that run behind them. I spaced my brackets out at the top with a flange extension to provide extra clearance.
 
I just installed mine last night. I was thinking of removing the entire flange on both sides all together and using 2 pieces of angle positioned vertically one the edges on the front side. However this would only work for my stones because the elt hangs over both sides of the mount, I will post a few pictures of mine here in a bit.

-david
 
I made my own strobe mounts so I didn't have this problem but if I were using Van's mount (and I may run into this problem on the -10), I would rivet tabs between the mount flanges and the skin. Then you could drill the tabs for snap bushings to act as guides behind the mount for the rudder cable.

Another approach would be to put some caterpillar grommet on the mount flanges to cover the area the rudder cables might rub. Or create a nylon chafe block similar to how the shoulder harnesses exit the baggage bulkhead.
 
OK, how did you all pull the rivets on the bottom of these brackets? I got the top ones done (what a nerve-wracking experience, trying to make D*MNED sure the puller didn't contact the skin when it "pops"). But I'm holding off on doing the bottom rivets until I get some advice...

How'd you get the puller in there, and then pull the rivets, given the curvature on the bottom skin, etc.? I have a puller that's been ground off, and the little ferrule that accepts the rivet stem had been ground to an angle years ago for something else, but it still doesn't see to want to fit without the very real possibility of it jumping and hitting the skin.

Help!

ETA: I also have a swivel-head rivet puller, if anyone used that.

TIA,

Steve
 
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Put a piece of cloth between the puller and the skin (a shop towel works well) and then don't try to keep the puller away from the skin Push it to the skin (not too much pressure) and when it 'pops' it won't bounce as much. The curvature prevents you from pulling perpendicular to the hole but there's enough flex there that if you push hard on the rivet (along the axis of the nail) as you operate the puller, it will come out good. You may also not be able to get a full stroke with the puller but 2 or 3 short strokes will get it done.
 
I followed a tip I read somewhere which involves using a small piece of metal (with a hole drilled in it) between the rivet and the puller. The piece of metal is filed to about a 30 degree profile. This transitions an angled pull from the puller into a straight pull on the rivet. Pre-bending the mandrel a little also helps.
 
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I had a similar issue with installing these little cable tie cradles. I just used a #6 nylock nut as a spacer between the pull rivet and the tool.
IMG3607-M.jpg


When I installed the ELT bracket, I was able to get down in there with my narrow pull riveter (on the left) and a nut as a spacer to pull these tight.
608300024_r5jo2-M.jpg


Here is the bracket installed with the ELT on it.
IMG3597-M.jpg


Start with the bottom rivets and bend the bracket away at the top. Once those bottom ones are in, the bracket can get pulled back into position on the top.
 
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