bhester

bhester

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Can anyone out there using the LSE Direct Crank help me.

The mount that gets attached to the engine has to have holes drilled and tapped in the engine. but the prop flange is in the way. Does the prop flange have to be removed? I've looked at some pictures and it kind of looks like they might be able to be drilled thought the holes in the prop flange. I'm at home and can't look at it on the plane right now.

I'm planning to install the new Mini sensor but it has to have the holes drilled and tapped in the engine also.

Hoping someone can give me some insight, before I get back to the hanger.
Thanks!
 
You sure you don't have the holes already there? :) You can drill through the flange hole.. you can't really remove the flange.. so short of splitting the engine that's your best bet. This is covered in the manual.. but again, only applies if you already do not have the holes in the case. For reference, my engine (built from an ECI kit) had the holes already in there ready to go..
 
As I recall, you have to press out one of the prop flange ferrules with a large C-clamp, then you can drill the hole where it needs to be. Use a progressive 3-tap set to tap the hole a bit at a time.
 
Kent Ashton said:
As I recall, you have to press out one of the prop flange ferrules with a large C-clamp, then you can drill the hole where it needs to be. Use a progressive 3-tap set to tap the hole a bit at a time.
Click to expand...

Correct. Emphasis on the LARGE c-clamp. Get a collection of 1/2" sockets, you'll find a combo that works with the clamp. Also, you'll need a high strength bolt of the correct thread to push and pull against the insert.
 
The ECI cases are already drilled and tapped, assuming your XP engine is Superior I'd give them a call and ask about their cases.
 
Halls Effect Module broke

My engine does not have those holes, I was really hoping that they were there, but they are not.

The reason for the upgrade is because my Halls Effect Module failed, most likely from hormonics after 622 hrs.. The new Mini Sensor looks like a better setup. I sent my flywheel to Klaus to be machined and have the ring install.

Here's the picture of the failed module:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/YQqelpKJGfd_ba9pT4K3N9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink

Thanks to everyone that replyed. I have a good understanding of what I've got to do now. I have a buddy that owns a machine shop that I'll be calling for help.

I didn't think that the prop flange comes off but wasn't sure.
 
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Pictures

Ok, made to the hanger to look it over and here are some pictures does this look right?
After I remove and bolt bushing am I going to be able to drill a strait hole in the bosses?

IMG_00675.jpg


IMG_00676.jpg


IMG_00674.jpg
 
bhester said:
Ok, made to the hanger to look it over and here are some pictures does this look right?
After I remove and bolt bushing am I going to be able to drill a strait hole in the bosses?

IMG_00675.jpg


IMG_00676.jpg


IMG_00674.jpg
Click to expand...

Make a drill jig that fits in the flange.
 
When I drilled mine, I made a template out of .032 sheet off of the direct crank sensor mount plate. I don't have the mini, maybe the same can be done with it. I started off with a #40. Remember, you will need long drill bits. :) Oh, and on the large older style direct sensor plate there are crank tabs you need to use for centering up the sensor plate. Don't forget to break the tabs off when you're finished and ready to mount permanently. Klaus told be you need 4 out of the 6 bolts in the plate to the boss locations, some are easier than others to get too and line up drilling and tapping tools.
 
Great pictures.
I had the same issue installing mine. I made a jig and did the best I could.
I removed a bushing and made a jig.
After I got the holes tapped, the holes were a little off. I have to wallow out the holes in the mount a little. The only problem I ever had afterwards was that once when I removed it, this past week actually, since the mounting plate could move around a bit before tightening the 3 bolts, it turns out it is possible to get the mounting plate out of round just a little from the crank. This since you will remove the supporting tabs after you get it ready to install. THis meant that the pickups on the flywheel did not all work on reassembly. A dial caliper made it easy to get the plate concentric with the crank.
 
Don't drill deep pilot holes

because regular drills don't cut well in existing holes. They are designed to make original holes. Use Klaus's exact instructions and you will get accurate holes. If you do need to enlarge a hole, get the support of an experienced machinest so the hole does not become a mess. Sheet metal drilling is another story, but we are talking about case drilling, not sheet metal.
Good luck, as always,
 
It doesn't appear that you removed a ferrule/bushing in the prop flange. Press one out with a large C-clamp and some judicious tapping with a ball peen or plastic hammer. It will let you align the drill and taps to go straight into the new holes.
 
Bushing not removed yet

No, I haven't removed the bushing yet. I was just wanting to make sure that everything looked right before I got started. I won't have the parts and instructions until the end of next week. Just trying to get it all worked out in my head. Lots of good info guys!
 
Kent Ashton said:
It doesn't appear that you removed a ferrule/bushing in the prop flange. Press one out with a large C-clamp and some judicious tapping with a ball peen or plastic hammer. It will let you align the drill and taps to go straight into the new holes.
Click to expand...

I tried the big c-clamp method. Couldn't get it to budge.
What did work was to place a bolt in the bushing threads, a rivet gun on the bolt side and a bucking bar on the crank flange. Little guys come right out. There is of course a special tool for this and anytime you commit rivet gun to crank flange you are asking for trouble. I do not recommend this method. I only state what I did and I have removed several of these over the years with this method.
 
Got a bushing out!

The c-clamp was useless and I did not like the sound of using a rivet gun, thanks for letting me know about it though. Here is what I used and it came right out. I did start with a larger all piece of all thread before I used the socket which required the smaller dia. all thread. I think the larger one was 3/8 and the smaller one was 1/4. I made a spacer for the back side of the prop flange. Used a 7/16 socket on the front side to push it through. More info and pictures on my web site: http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/2012Flying.htm

IMG_00687.jpg
 
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