[10_year_plan]

I want to arm myself with the knowledge needed to pick out tools. What capacity receiver and CFM/PSI compressor did you get? was it enough for the job? too much?

Did you get a reversible air drill? Do you think you can get away without one or do you really need that switch lever?

what sort of drill RPM is best value for money? I know "higher the better" but if I get one that only spins up to 1800 rpm, am I missing out on something important?

I do want to get a DRDT-2, but I would rather put the front end on a steel frame that I make myself, is this possible?

I would like to use a pneumatic squeezer, is it okay to use an alligator one or does it have to be in line?

For the squeezers, can I make my own yokes with the right steel?

Anything on tools that helped you along in your build process that isn't common knowledge?

 

[dlloyd3]

It all depends on exactly what you are trying to do.
If you plan to paint, you need a larger compressor and tank. I got by with a small compressor on a 20 gallon tank. The compressor would run every 20 minutes or so while shooting wing rivets (there are a lot of wing rivets). Infrequently other than that. But every time it did run, it was loud--do not buy an oiless air compressor!
I have an air drill but used it only a few times. People swear by them but I used a 2500rpm battery drill. The air hose never got in my way and using it did not cause my compressor to run--do not buy an oiless air compressor!
The DRDT people do sell the front end only for your frame. Check their website.
Alligator is more money and will fit a few places the inline won't. A lot of airplanes have been built using hand squeezers and rivet guns.
Yep, you can make your own yokes, it is not magic.
Get the right tool for the job. Sometimes you will have to make that tool.

 

[10_year_plan]

I saw some second hand aligators for less than the in lines. I thought that for some reason the aligator squeezers are inferior.. Obviously not.

I do plan on painting my own aircraft, but I'm thinking of borrowing/hiring someones higher capacity compressor for the brief time that I will need the extra capacity. Would a compressor that's good for an air drill be suitable for light primer painting (corrosion proofing)?

Thank you for the help.

 

[clevtool]

ExperimentalAero.com shows the plans to build your own frame. Consider using 1/4" wall tube to limit flex.

I have been recommending for years to buy a good steel cylinder two stage oil type compressor at around 11cfm at 90psi. You only need half that for normal work, but go to the farm store and buy a larger pulley and appropriate belt to cut the speed in half. It will lump along making MUCH less noise than if you would have bought the 5cfm model. If you do want to paint, switch the pulleys back and you will have the volume. Tank size is not very important, just like a battery, the bigger it is the longer to charge and the more time between charges. Pipe the air inlet outside to get rid of about half the noise.

dlloyd3, what make and model drill did you find that turns that fast?

 

[Lemmingman]

Anything on tools that helped you along in your build process that isn't common knowledge?

Well, if you decide to go with a kit of tools from one of the vendors, then you might think that this is all you're going to need. This is not the case. I spent every other day of my tail build going to Lowe/Home Depot to buy one tool or another. Bench grinders, band saws, drill press, sanding stations, various files and saws....are all things that can help but are not strictly necessary.

There are items that you will get in a kit that it would be smart to buy replacements for before you need them. Through one misadventure or another I've broken the male dimple for my #40 die set twice. I now keep a spare in the shop for the next time. I also bought an extra female die that I ground down the side of so that I can dimple in tight spaces.

 

[Bill_H]

If you have not built before, strongly consider a preselected tool kit from Cleaveland or Avery for your plane. I got the Cleaveland for the RV12 VERY VERY happy with them. Now, even the folks that like Avery say to get the Cleaveland "Main Squeeze" squeezer. Great tool. I used a CORDED electric drill from Sears, variable speed up to 2500 plus. Worked GREAT and I avoided that noisy compressor. Just the thing for some holes. A battery drill will work for most others. Get a POWER SCREWDRIVER as well (that is not a drill), the kind where the handle can be positioned as either flashlight type or pistol type. A lot of basic tool questions get asked and answered in the RV12 forum because there are a lot of us first-timers there. A search there pulls up some very good advice.

 

[Sam Buchanan]

If you have not built before, strongly consider a preselected tool kit from Cleaveland or Avery for your plane. I got the Cleaveland for the RV12 VERY VERY happy with them. Now, even the folks that like Avery say to get the Cleaveland "Main Squeeze" squeezer. Great tool. I used a CORDED electric drill from Sears, variable speed up to 2500 plus. Worked GREAT and I avoided that noisy compressor. Just the thing for some holes. A battery drill will work for most others. Get a POWER SCREWDRIVER as well (that is not a drill), the kind where the handle can be positioned as either flashlight type or pistol type. A lot of basic tool questions get asked and answered in the RV12 forum because there are a lot of us first-timers there. A search there pulls up some very good advice.

Good advice except for one item.

A corded drill is potentially deadly when building a metal airplane. Drag the cord across the edge of something sharp like the firewall and things are going to get interesting (dangerous!) very quickly! Most sheet metal shops don't allow corded hand tools, this is one reason air tools are used.

 

[Mohammed]

You would be better off with preselected tool kit from one the vendors in this website like Avery or Cleaveland. I went with Cleaveland and I am happy with their services. You could still customize the kit (this is what I did) by adding and deleting but make sure that you check the required tools list at Van's website

Since you are like me living away from US it make sense to order only the DRDT-2 front. I ordered the front only and made the frame at a local steel shop. The required drawings comes with the front part. You could order it with your kit and the tool vendor can source it for you and ship it with your tools.

Mohammed

 

[diamond]

It all depends on exactly what you are trying to do.
If you plan to paint, you need a larger compressor and tank. I got by with a small compressor on a 20 gallon tank. The compressor would run every 20 minutes or so while shooting wing rivets (there are a lot of wing rivets). Infrequently other than that. But every time it did run, it was loud--do not buy an oiless air compressor!
I have an air drill but used it only a few times. People swear by them but I used a 2500rpm battery drill. The air hose never got in my way and using it did not cause my compressor to run--do not buy an oiless air compressor!
The DRDT people do sell the front end only for your frame. Check their website.
Alligator is more money and will fit a few places the inline won't. A lot of airplanes have been built using hand squeezers and rivet guns.
Yep, you can make your own yokes, it is not magic.
Get the right tool for the job. Sometimes you will have to make that tool.

Can someone elaborate on what all is involved in making a yoke? Any special type of steel required?

 

[AEA]

Good advice except for one item.

A corded drill is potentially deadly when building a metal airplane. Drag the cord across the edge of something sharp like the firewall and things are going to get interesting (dangerous!) very quickly! Most sheet metal shops don't allow corded hand tools, this is one reason air tools are used.

With gfi protected outlets and double insulated tools I'm not sure this as dangerous as you suggest.

 

[lorne green]

An oiled 20 gallon compressor that will do 100 psi will do the trick. My pneumatic squeezer is great. I included a foot pedal which makes the tool more flexible and the system saves me time and energy. I have the Wack-A-Mole style dimpler and have actually used it three times. It really was the only tool to use for those situations. However I use my DRDT-2 and love it!.

With gfi protected outlets and double insulated tools I'm not sure this as dangerous as you suggest.

I have a GFCI recept in my washroom where they're deeded. In my shop, I use unprotected circuits throughout. By all means, use cordless tools when it's more convenient, or corded if you are so protected, but I would use a premium air drill (3600rpm) as my primary drill. (Reversing option is useless) Most 12-18V -110VAC drill can't spin up to our required rpm s. Occasional use I think is OK.

I think the biggest issue with making your own yokes is steel strength. A flexing yoke is not going to work.
Best wishes.

 

[Sam Buchanan]

Good advice except for one item.

A corded drill is potentially deadly when building a metal airplane. Drag the cord across the edge of something sharp like the firewall and things are going to get interesting (dangerous!) very quickly! Most sheet metal shops don't allow corded hand tools, this is one reason air tools are used.

With gfi protected outlets and double insulated tools I'm not sure this as dangerous as you suggest.

Why even go there when there are much better (safer) alternatives to corded tools?? It would only take one instance of a GFI not working properly to kill a builder...or family helper...........

 

[wjb]

I saw some second hand aligators for less than the in lines. I thought that for some reason the aligator squeezers are inferior.. Obviously not.

I have an alligator squeezer and love it. With the alligators, though, you need to get a set of different length squeezer dies so it can be set up for the correct length rivet. The c-frames have an add-on that, like a hand squeezer, can be adjusted to close the proper amount at full throw. I found that Spruce has an inexpensive selection of dies of different sizes. These plus a handful of AN960L washers and I can easily set the alligator to the right gap. I noticed that there are a pile now up for sale on eBay.

 

[Bill_H]

My power source when building the plane was an overhead drop-down extension cord from a tension reel. The cord doesn't drag over anything. I judged my "risk" from that issue to be acceptable.

 

[E. D. Eliot]

FWIW

GFIs are cheap and are easy to install - maybe ten minutes after you turn off the juice. ALL 120V circuits in my garage are GFI protected = peace of mind.