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alcladrv

Well Known Member
Has anyone tried to lenghen the Vetterman exhaust pipes to reduce the drumming/vibration on the floor under your feet? Perhaps as far as the wing spar? I'd trade a little speed penalty for a little more comfort.

Mike

flying RV-7A
 
Do you have a bare aluminum floor?

I have 3/4" black sound proofing pad (from Becki Orndorf) glued to the floor between the stringers and a carpet glued on top of everything using 3M Super 77 Adhesive and I do not feel a thing on the floor.

Bob Axsom
 
Bob Axsom said:
I have 3/4" black sound proofing pad (from Becki Orndorf) glued to the floor between the stringers and a carpet glued on top of everything using 3M Super 77 Adhesive and I do not feel a thing on the floor.
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Bob, do you have a web site for them? Or a contact? I am looking at what I need to insulate my cabin. Do you have specific part numbers for the sound proofing pad you are referring to? Any help would be appreciated.
 
http://www.fly-gbi.com

The site is http://www.fly-gbi.com. Becki sewed the seat pads in the design I selected and supplied all the material which I used to upholster my own interior. The interior VHS video tape she supplied was a wonderful aid and taught me how to do the work by watching her do the various components then doing my own. The floor was part of the work I decided to do. The material glued directly to the floor under the carpet is described as follows at the George and Becki's website.

Bob Axsom

Floor Insulation $20.00 per foot
Lightweight vinyl/nitrile insulating material that will not absorb water or oil. It meets FAR 25.853b fire retardancy and insulates for noise and heat. The floor insulation is 3/4 inch thick to fill the space between the floor stiffeners in the side by side RV models. Comes in 4 feet wide sheets. 2 1/3 running feet will fill the forward floor of the side-by-side RVs so carpet will sit flat on top of the floor stiffeners. Install with spray adhesive. We recommend 3M Super 77 available at discount and home improvement stores.
 
Its not the length, but the angle that is key. Larry Vetterman advised me to ensure the angle between the floor and the tailpipe was at least 25 degrees when I was having the same problem. If you increase the length of the pipes then keep a very close eye on your ball joints, they can wear very quickly (within 10 hours) and start leaking badly. Call Larry, he is very knowledgeable.

Pete
 
Thanks for the info

Thanks Bob. I am going to contact them about my insulation needs. I need to get that done before I start stringing wires and cables throughout the fuse and sticking things on the firewall.
 
Along those lines

If you carefully work everything out ahead of time you should not have to route any wire or plumbing behind the upholstery and almost everything of this sort can be hidden. I did design my own "stair step" center console in our RV-6A that comes up between the side by side occupants that facilitates this (as well as 4 fuel filters, 2 fuel valves, aux fuel pump, primer solenoid, primer switch, aux pump switch and manual pitch trim control). All of the wires and coax cables that go aft from the instrument panel enter the top through ribbed flexible conduit then go aft through the the center of the spar web and into the corners of the pitch control push rod tunnel for distribution to the lights, servos, antennas, fuel tanks, pitot heat, ELT, and strobe control box. I routed the static line under the upper left longeron. It is a part of the build process that pays off later if you give this a lot of thought and work. It is a little surprising how much the upholstery does for the appearance and sound proofing.

Bob Axsom
 
My buddy runs the Wick's piccollo pipes on his RV6 and says they are great - certainly takes the bark out of it when it departs or passes over.
 
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