Q

qiutong

Active Member
Hi everyone,

I'm at the stage where I'm getting ready to attach the rib flanges of the assembled leading edges onto the spar webs of my RV-7 wings. I've contemplated using the solid rivets called for in the plans, but I'm convinced that I'd end up regretting that decision if I buggered up my spars. I've read many accounts of builders using blind rivets to get the job done and I've decided to do just that, however I'm not sure which rivets to use. The builders that I've followed most closely have used the MSP rivets and I was planning on using them also, but it occurred to me that these rivets are made of Monel, and it would be fastening aluminum. The thought of galvanic corrosion occurred to me and I was unable to find anything already in the forums.

Monel itself is very corrosion resistant, but the aluminum spar is not. Has anyone out there that used MSP rivets had any problems with this? Do you think it would be a bad idea to use these rivets? I like the idea that the MSP rivet is stronger than an aluminum blind rivet, but if I have corrosion problems because of it, I'd rather go with the aluminum. Any thoughts and opinions are appreciated.

Brad
 
See below for an email response from vans support on this exact question. I attempted to use solid rivets and ended up drilling almost all out.

From me to Vans:
Hello, I am building a 7 and I am attaching the outboard wing leading edge assembly to the spar (rib to spar). Solid rivets are proving challenging to set, I have read on various forms and builder websites (I am sure you love that statement) that I can use LP4-3,4 rivets. My question is, is this approved? If so can I use them for ALL 6 of the ribs? I would prefer this to lessen the chance of damaging my spar.

From Vans to me:
We use these rivits on the RV-12 for the ribs I see no reason why you cant
on a RV-7 but a better replacement for a solid rivet is the CR3212 and CR3213 varieties.


I used the LP4 rivets because I had them on hand and I had read where others had difficulty setting the CR rivets in these locations. The LP rivets were easy to set and I would do it that way again if I were to build again. I did have to grind my rivet pulled head to an angle and also bend the rivet shank to match the angle but it worked out great.

Hopefully this helps. Good luck.
 
Is it satisfactory to use LP4 on a 9? My LE ribs to spar rivet callout is AN470 4-5 and AN407 4-7 from memory. Are the LP4-3, LP4-4 OK for this? I'm talking about the length and substituting the AN470 4-5 and 4-7 with the same length. Does the LP4-3 sub for the AN470 4-5 and the LP4-4 for the AN470 4-7? I put a LP4-3 in the spar to check the length and there didn't apear to be sufficient protruding through the spar to hold the rib. I don't think it is possible to use a pop rivet puller in the LE, but I haven't tried as yet.
 
Hornet2008 said:
Is it satisfactory to use LP4 on a 9? My LE ribs to spar rivet callout is AN470 4-5 and AN407 4-7 from memory. Are the LP4-3, LP4-4 OK for this? I'm talking about the length and substituting the AN470 4-5 and 4-7 with the same length. Does the LP4-3 sub for the AN470 4-5 and the LP4-4 for the AN470 4-7? I put a LP4-3 in the spar to check the length and there didn't apear to be sufficient protruding through the spar to hold the rib. I don't think it is possible to use a pop rivet puller in the LE, but I haven't tried as yet.
Click to expand...


Pete your calculation is right. I did the same. Rivet puller fits in there.
 
I'm still confused about the problem with setting those rivets in the first place, I thought they were easy...:eek:
 
Leading edge rivets

Not exactly "easy" but I did them solo and maybe had to drill 3 or 4 out and do them again. There are several things you can do to make these rivets "easier"
-Use a fairly long straight rivet set so the gun is at a very slight angle when it rests against the main wing rib. I had about a 12" rivet set which was a bit too long for solo use. I have never had good luck solo with an offset rivet set.
-Use a tungsten bucking bar. Repeat, use a tungsten bucking bar.
-A good riveting partner helps here as do skinny arms.
-The inboard ribs are fairly blind and awkward. If you have Van's stall warner, I would put another access hole in the opposite side wing to provide easier access to this area. I had an earlier kit and only realized this after I had done the rivets. In my case I made a wooden bucking bar guide that I could jam between the rib(s) or the rib and tiedown AEX. This kept the bucking bar vertical.
 
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