[jls32]

I think my countersinks in the lead counterbalances for the elevator are too deep. I kept drilling until the dimples in the counterbalance skin seemed flush but that required countersinks 0.085" deep - almost twice the depth as the dimples. Does it matter though? Will the lead weights move relative to the counterweight skin?

 

[Ralph Inkster]

Ideas:
1 - find a bit of lead from a plumbing supply house & melt it into the countersunk area, than re-drill & re-countersink to proper depth.
2 - fill countersink with 2 part epoxy (JB Weld or similar), drill out & re-countersink.
3 - dimple some AN960-10L washers & glue it in the oversize countersink
4 - glue a A3235 SS 020 #10 tinnerman washer to the lead weight countersink
... & keep building...

 

[JDA_BTR]

I’d let Vans answer the lead may not care.

 

[Norman CYYJ]

Tire shops are a good source for lead.

 

[wirejock]

Plumbing solder

If you melt lead, you might want to use tire weight.
Plumbing solder may have acid core.
I prosealed mine in place as well as using the Vans specified hardware.
Also, don't cut weights. If they need reshaping, tap the area with a hammer. You can always remove lead later by drilling holes but adding weight is not so easy.
Many add nutplates to the tooling holes. Weight can be added with heavy washers and bolts.

 

[agent4573]

I don't think it will matter. The mount bolts may deform the skin into the overcut reliefs if you overtightened them, but the lead weight won't move around because of that gap. I also had to add a ton of weight onto my left elevator to compensate for the electric trim servo, so you'll have plenty of non-lead adjustment to balance the surfaces if you went with electric trim.