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David Paule

Well Known Member
I've never used any of the laser alignment tools that are out now. There are many kinds. If anyone has a recommendation and a few ideas on how they can be used, this would be a great time to share that.

I've got an RV-3B kit on order and it's not pre-punched. I get to do all that alignment myself.

My iPad has "Clinometer," a nice digital leveling app, and I know about the SmartTool digital level. I know it, too comes in numerous options. What do y'all like?

Incidentally, I've seen that the resolutions for these two digital levels are running at about 1/10 of a degree. That works out to about .20 inches across the ten foot semi-span of an RV-3B. Seems like rather a lot.

Thanks!

Dave
 
I can't speak to the laser level, but I would *strongly* suggest you discard any app-based level. They aren't as accurate as they might be advertised to be - compare it with a blue spirit (bubble) level, for example. Be careful to not confuse resolution with accuracy.
 
Agree about the app-based ones. They are not great.

I used a Craftsman digital level and it worked very well. The key to whatever tool you use it to take a measurement and turn the level 180 degrees and try again.

Oh yeah, the amount of leveling done on the -3 is probably on par with all the other RVs. Setting wing sweep and incidence and incidence of the horizontal stabilizer, getting the vertical stabilizer actually vertical and setting it's offset, etc. is all done "manually" on the pre-punched kits -- even the quick builds (not sure about the 10 and 12 on this). Now as far as getting straight rivet lines -- that's certainly easier on the pre-punched kits. :)
 
Laser Level

I have the use of a laser level and found it to be great. It has both a horizontal and/or vertical line. I've used it to level the fuselage longitudinally using the fuselage cabin sill, in roll using the motor mounts.

It helped me set the vertical and horizontal stabs, and even transpose the horizontal cowling cut lines, as well as making sure the cowling was on level and centered on the prop.

Found it very useful.

Don
 
I have a laser line generator and a laser level. With all that, I found a piece of string to be more useful for working on the -6. The laser can be handy for double-checking the alignment of the bulkheads on the jig, but that is about it. As far as levels go, use the digital for setting the control deflection (where only relative accuracy is required, not absolute) other than that, park the digital. Spend the money and buy the best bubble level you can get. Get one long (3ft+) and one short. I also have a digital level and have found it to be only moderately accurate, the buble level is much better.

For building the -3, -4, -6, the level is very important. It is not just used for setting the wing AOI, and making sure the tail is square. The level is used to align the assembly fixture, position the bulkheads, check the fuselage for twist, and is required to jig (and re-check) the wings for assembly. I use my levels very often.
 
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Machinist level

I used a machinist level. Much more accurate than my digital level or even a standard level. Accurate enough that it will drive you almost crazy when setting your wing incidence. Level right wing, level left wing, rinse and repeat about a dozen times.

example:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Master-Machinist-s-Level-12-x-0005-Per-10-/H2683

Text from the advertisers page:


"These incredibly accurate levels are used for setting up lathes, milling machines and other fine machinery. They measure to .0005" (half a thousandths of an inch) within a 10" span. If you even put a newspaper page under your machine, the bubble will move! Every machinist must have one."


Get it right and you will have a straight flying and fast airplane.
 
GLPalinkas said:
I used a machinist level. Much more accurate than my digital level or even a standard level. Accurate enough that it will drive you almost crazy when setting your wing incidence. Level right wing, level left wing, rinse and repeat about a dozen times.
Click to expand...

I second this opinion. I have a fairly expensive digital level that is not that accurate, even compared to a regular ordinary level but it is handy for checking control surface deflection angles. I also have a Starrett machinist level that is very accurate and most of the time thats what I use.
 
I also agree a machinist level is the only way to go. Only place I used a laser is setting the wing sweep. Getting everything as accurate as possible pays off in the end. Don
 
Machinist level and plumb bobs are the things to use. I only use a carpenters level to get close, then go to the machinist level. Often the carpenters is off as much a couple of tenths over a wing chord."Off" might not be the right word, they are just too coarse a measurement to use to get accurate settings.
 
The machinist levels are a great isea. That said, the professional series Empire level they sell at HD are advertised to be accurate within 0.0005 in per in. Over the length of a fuselage (say 15ft), that is 0.09 in. that is pleanty accurate. Most of the machinist levels I have seen are usually 10-16 inches long. It is very handy to have a level that is at least as wide as the fuselage and at least the distant from the main to rear spar on the wing, otherwise you have to find some bar or angle to use as a staightedge and who know how straight it will be.
 
one application

I used a laser level yesterday on my Cherokee. I made a new inspection plate for the top of the front nose gear fairing and since I didn't have the original cover, I needed a way to mark the screw holes. I placed the laser level on a camera tripod and aimed the laser at the tinnerman nut on the fairing at the same angle that the screw would be inserted. Then I put the new cover in place and marked the spot where the laser was pointing with a sharpie, drilled, set up the laser for the next hole, put ther cover in place with the first screw and marked the next hole. Repeat for remaining holes. Works like a champ! ;)
 
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