[niblettda]

I've got a question about installing the landing gear weldment up against the 904A and 904C parts of the spar. As you can see in the picture, I can't get the upper part of the weldment that bolts to the 904C part to be flush, it's proud by about 0.05". I'm flush on the weldment to 904A part (the inboard 4 bolts).

Secondly, on the lower part with the famous five bolts the bracket doesn't fit against the side skin as seen below. However, all the upper and lower 904 attach bolts fit and the front leg of the weldment is flush to the side skin. Is there supposed to be a washer in there? Also the brake line hole doesn't completely line up in the center of the weldment hole.

I've already ground a lot out of the lower 904 flange and before I keep taking more out I wanted to make sure that I'm not doing something else wrong.

 

[Rupester]

Initially I thought I had a similar problem when I put the gear weldments in my QB, but after some tugging, pushing, grunting, grinding and other similar hi-tech approaches, they suddenly fit like a glove ... everything eventually lined up perfectly. Wish I could be more specific, but that's really what happened. )

 

[cln1owner]

Mine was similar...

David,

I had similar issues. Both my weldments sat a little proud on the top outboard corners (notice the clamp). When wrestled into place and clamped I also had a gap on the sides. I built some spacers, drilled and moved on.

Close up:

Drilled spacers:

 

[niblettda]

I'm hesitant to take away more material since I'm pretty close on the bottom spar to cutting into one of the rivet bodies on the lower flange. I know per plans it shows getting very close to one of them, but not actually cutting into it.

I think when I tighten down the top flange of the weldment it will fit. (I know it will fit if I use an extra 6' piece of pipe ) My biggest concern was the gap on the five bolts on the bottom. Nate's suggestion was what I was expecting to end up with, but I like to ask before I reinvent the wheel.

I thought about removing some of the powder coating on the back of the top flange which should get it to sit more flush, but I'd prefer to keep that in place as a cushion between the steel and aluminum.

 

[ron sterba]

WD 921 GEAR WEB.

Well, also after having that lower gap with the five bolt flange and the lower side skin I checked around the airport for answers but nobody was home. Suddenly I hear on the aircraft radio theres 2 RVs inbound for landing. GREAT I'll head them off at the airport rest ramp. Tom Hart and buddy & Greg Halverson from 105. RVers can do this stuff! What a community we RVers have! They scratched their heads. Shim it or go see GUS and the team at VANs. Did talk to the team at VANs and was told I could SHIM IT and that would be fine.. Don't forget to use a drill bit by hand to ream out all the bolt holes of paint. Next use the wing bolts as alignment and tighten all the flange bolts. This will ensure easy wing bolt installation. I did learn that the slow build builders don't have a problem at this point because they know how to bend,twek,twist and use a rubber malet. My Hat goes off to them. I got a QB and I'am just learning that just because it shows on the plans it doesn't always fit. Its very close and this is where the ART of the RV smile comes in. Guys thanks for the posting of pictures. Don't forget you have to use proseal on the lower gear tube and bottom skin later on.
Thanks Guys, Ron

 

[Phil]

The plans on the RV-10 call for a shim. (WD-1021P)

It's cut out of .063 aluminum and measures 1" x 3 13/16".