hammer408

Active Member
I'm beginning to rough-out some preliminary electrical systems stuff for my 9A and came upon some literature I got from Oshkosh last year. The MC 10 looks like an interesting piece of electrical equipment. I looked on Lamar's website, but their site isn't very helpful.

Has anyone installed this unit into their aircraft: feedback, pro's, cons, etc. Any feedback greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Henry
Pittsburgh, Pa.
N918HB (reserved)
 
KISS

hammer408 said:
I'm beginning to rough-out some preliminary electrical systems stuff for my 9A and came upon some literature I got from Oshkosh last year. The MC 10 looks like an interesting piece of electrical equipment. I looked on Lamar's website, but their site isn't very helpful.

Has anyone installed this unit into their aircraft: feedback, pro's, cons, etc. Any feedback greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Henry
Pittsburgh, Pa.
N918HB (reserved)
Do a search on these forum's and there is info. Here is one thread:

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=6260&highlight=lamar

The folks at Lamar who make the MC10 and starters are nice, but as far as this product its BIG, HEAVY, EXPENSIVE and does not really FIT. That should be enough but read on if you want the full meal deal.

You really are not going to save any real effort, and you will have to GO IT ALONE. In other words its not going to be per plans and only one or two have been installed (see link above). So if some problems turn up, which is a real possibility, you will be on your own. Stick to the plans. You know what is going to happen, it will go together like 1000's of other RV's made per plans. Seriously where would you put it?

Van's kits do have some electrical provisions provided, but it's far from comprehensive. On the other hand its not hard. You know the location of the alternator, battery, master relay and starter relay/contactor, which the plans lay out already. Also you know where the components are, about where the switches are and where you will put the central ground and distribution block (Fuse block or CB gang). Once you have these items, connect the dots, one circuit at a time. It is very simple.

Also the MC10 device has provisions for external battery jack/jump, which some find a must have. For a RV if think it is extra weight that is not needed. If you have a 100% dead battery you should (must?) take time to charge it. To jump a battery, start, yank the cable out and go for it does not sit right. Also many alternators warn NOT to do this. We can debate why, but that is the recommendation, don't jump dead batteries, by many manufactures. I don't think it good for the battery either.

You can charge thru a cigarette lighter jack or other jack in the cockpit, so you don't have to peal the cowl off to get to the battery. You simply wire a plug or jack you can access in the cockpit direct to the battery, not thru the master relay. Of course have fues protection on.

Some wire a battery plug and clamp it to the engine mount near the oil access door to plug a battery charger in. The charge time for the Odyssey for 0% - 100% power with a 10 amp charger is 2 hours, 1 hour with 20 amps. (Recommend in 2 amps for 6-8 hours. Don't leave a large battery chargers unattended in your hanger while charging.) I'm sure you could charge the battery enough in 30-45 minutes to start. You could leave the battery charger connected when cranking. Once started, unplug the panel jack and hand the ground crew the charger who can stand behind the wing. If its in the oil access door it would not be a good place for a ground crew with the prop going. The same applies to ground crew jumping with the MC10. From what I read, the MC10 would put the external battery jack forward of the wing and firewall thru the cowl. It's just too dangerous for anyone to work that close to spinning prop. Best plan is charge the battery.

The MC10 is just money. I think it's about $1100 last I checked. You can spend say 1/4th of that and get all of the basic electrical system wiring per plans.

It is like other similar electrical products that try to package a bunch of component, like offer panel switches and circuit breakers in special panels. Nice but not really necessary. The cost of switches and CB's or fuses are less than these pre made switch panels. Again nickles and dimes. NOTHING WRONG with them, but the savings in time and increase in reliability and function is a big question mark to me. I don't find they are value added, but others may chime in and say they love there choice.

A lot of these all in one units are nice for production, but for an individual building a plane labor is not an issue. In a plane factory setting, a pre-made box they can bolt in and handle all kind of functions is a time saver, but the who plane's electrical needs to be made around it. I think the RV is not really suited for an all in one box, for one, room to install it.

If you are new to building here are a real time saving suggestions. First by not spending time thinking about all kinds of other ways to re-invent the wheel or use something like a MC10 you save time. KISS: Keep it simple, stick to the plans and keep it light. Planning for maintenance is always good (access, nut plates). Be super critical when thinking about adding anything "special". DO YOU NEED IT? Take pride in making it as light and simple as possible. You may have to work on it down the road, so the better you have it laid out, labeled and simplified the easier life will be.

Bottom line is the MC10 is interesting and sure it works fine, but you will (I guarantee) spend more time and money in the end. You RV will not care and will not fly faster, higher, further or better with the MC10. You can build a super reliable, efficient, cost effective electrical system with discrete components. THIS IS MY OPINION. Don't let me stop you from being a pioneer :D , but when you price it and price doing it with other parts the answer will make sense and Cents. :D
 
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