Kitfoxbill
Active Member
Does anyone have a good way to label the switches on the panel and side switch rest?
thallock said:Greg,
Thanks, I'll have to give that a try. These experiments are starting to get expensive.
Tracy.
Paul Eastham said:Problem was, I was not able to remove the botched decal without damaging the panel paint (rustoleum "professional grade") -- the pigment fused into the paint.
So with any errors requiring a repaint, it would take me years before I got done.
thallock said:FWIW, I was going to order a test decal kit from beldecal (http://beldecal.stores.yahoo.net/moddecpap.html), but decided not to when the shipping came out to be $29 on a $23 order.
YMMV,
Tracy.
Yes, I have since put that box around my labels, every one.Davepar said:IBill, I was looking at the sample label sheet on your site. I remember one tip in the Decal Pro instructions said to try putting a sacrificial box around each label. That way if there's any separation around the edges, it will happen on the box and not on your actual label. Then right before applying the label, cut off the box.
Tracy,thallock said:The other problem that I have is when transferrig the image from the mylar carrier to the test panel, I almost always have at least one character or line where part of the image stayed with the mylar (i.e., missng part of the image in the final product). I tried really pushing the image into the test panel, but this did not seem to help. Then I tried not pressing so hardl, and I finally got a perfect transfer. I just need to be able to repeat this every time.
Scott Will said:Frank... that may be the way I go since we have a nice color laser at work. What brand of clear label sheet worked best for you?
Thanks,
Scott