KiloWhiskey1

KiloWhiskey1

Well Known Member
Here is the post damage pic:
dsc00371ah9.jpg


Thanks for any advice.

Keith
 
Last edited:
Totally repairable. You will want to lay in a layer of glass on the inside and outside where it creased. You'll know what I mean when you take it off. Just remove gel coat & filler down to the glass 1.5" on either side of the entire crease. Lay in the glass 1" over the crease. Fill, sand prime & paint.

Not sure about the bird. ;)

I heard / read somewhere to paint spinner 1/3 red, 2/3rd white, this is suppose to scare those pesky kamikaze's away. It would look to weird for me, but it is suppose to work.
 
Last edited:
I agree with Larry; fix it. If the area seems slightly weak, it is better (IMHO) to brace it rather than putting on many layers of FG. An easy way is to hold everything in place, put down one layer of FG, lay a rubber tube across it (1/2" or so in diameter) and lay a couple layers of FG over that. Press them down to make a "U" shaped brace channel over the weak area. This is of course on the inside surface. Exact shape/size isn't important. Let it cure and pull the rubber tube out. It will be really stiff and will hold its shape until the next bird comes along. Do the outside surface as needed.

Bob Kelly
 
Bird Strike

Keith,
It's definitely repairable. The gel-coat on the tips is very thin, so I'd use 6 -7 oz fiberglass with aeropoxy (mixed by volumn 3 to 1, no special pumps or scales) If the area is crushed in push it back in place as best you can, but don't over do it because the damaged area can become higher than surrounding surface. Next, mark out the cracked area on the inside surface at least 1 1/2 - 2 inches beyond damage. Sand the area using 60 - 80 grit paper. Make sure you sand past all the hairline cracks and broken glass. Lay up a single layer of glass and let dry over night. If you have a pneumatic high speed angle or straight grinder remove all the jell coat on the top using a rol-loc pad. These a aggressive on the gel-coat but don't grind away fiberglass that fast. Just watch what your doing. If you have only several cracks you can just grind away the gel-coat along the cracks only (about 1/2 wide swath) This makes it easier to fill and contour because your not doing a large area, however, if it's pretty much shattered you'll need to grind all the gel-coat off the damaged area. After removing the gel-coat I'd mix up some micro-balloons and us as a filler over the damaged area. After drying sand down until you're happy with the results. Blow the area off with compressed air and inspect for pin holes. You can use runny micro-balloons for a pin hole filler or 3M spot putty from your local auto paint store. It's not that bad a job, it just takes time and lots of detail work.
Charlie, Tucson AZ
 
videobobk said:
I agree with Larry; fix it. If the area seems slightly weak, it is better (IMHO) to brace it rather than putting on many layers of FG. An easy way is to hold everything in place, put down one layer of FG, lay a rubber tube across it (1/2" or so in diameter) and lay a couple layers of FG over that. Press them down to make a "U" shaped brace channel over the weak area. This is of course on the inside surface. Exact shape/size isn't important. Let it cure and pull the rubber tube out. It will be really stiff and will hold its shape until the next bird comes along. Do the outside surface as needed.

Bob Kelly
Click to expand...
That's a great idea!

One other thing, on the top surface, take a dremel with a cut-off wheel and work each of the spider cracks to expose the FG under the gel coat. Make the channel wider than the original crack. Be careful not to cut the FG. Then cover with micro balloons and smooth it all out. You can go with flox for extra strength but that won't be required with the patch on the underside. All you are trying to do here is make a good smooth surface for painting, one that will not pop off should the tip flex again.

Bummer to hear about this but hey, the tip is easier to fix than the leading edge. Oh, and be thankful you didn't hit a goose. Had that happened, the decision to replace the tip would have been made for you.
 
What are you talking about

I think its totally irresponsible trying to fix the bird that way...This bird is no longer airworthy..period...:)

Frank
 
Thanks for the advice!

Thanks to everyone for their advice on repairing the tip. I have seen some very bad gel coat repair jobs on boats, so everyone's tips have given me renewed faith that it is poosible to get good results.

After much consideration, I think I am going to do both replace it and repair it.

I know, sounds crazy. Here is my rationale:

The plane flies fine with the busted tip. I put some clear tape over the nav light lense and over the deep chips in the gel coat and this fix is holding up fine for now. I plan to buy a new wingtip and get it ready in my shop at home. I can change it out in an afternoon at the airport without taking the plane out of service for any significant time. So that is the reason for replacing.

Now as for repairing. I want to try my hand at repairing the gel coat and repainting the original. I know it will take me a little time to work through the different stages of getting the finish where I want it, so this way I won't be pressed for time and without an airplane to fly.

I will end up with two wingtips and more expense, but I flew the plane for the first time in January and I am having too much fun with it to take it out of service for what could be a lengthy repair.

Keith
 
Last edited:
Landing lights

The double landing lights are from Van's catalog. Most people seem to favor the leading edge lights. I haven't flown enough at night to have an opinion yet.

Keith
 
You must log in or register to reply here.