GEM930

GEM930

Well Known Member
Friend
Ok, first off I'm not asking this because I'm looking to save a few bucks on filter changes. I'm changing from a 320 to a 360 and the vacuum pad backup alternator I built will not clear the champion filter on the 360. I found the below pictured K&N (hp-2005) and adaptor that will work. The K&N has a bypass valve as well as an anti bleed back. Anyone using this? Any reason not to? If so are there any other aircraft filters that are about a 1/4 inch smaller diameter?

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K & N

No personal experiance with K&N oil filters, however a respected local engine shop uses them during the breakin/ground run after engine overhaul. Good Luck, Russ
 
GEM930 said:
Ground runs only??? Should that be reason for concern?
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Ground run/break-in should only be attempted if the proper test club, test stand, and cooling shrouds are used.

The aircraft cooling system is not designed to properly cool the engine on the ground.
 
Mel said:
Ground run/break-in should only be attempted if the proper test club, test stand, and cooling shrouds are used.

The aircraft cooling system is not designed to properly cool the engine on the ground.
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I meant should it be cause for concern that they Use them on the ground??? As opposed to using them in the air? Probably reading too much into it.
 
filter

GEM930,

I have used the K & N filter exclusively since I started flying my airplane. The airplane now has 183 hours on it and no issues whatsoever with the filter. My engine is an ECI Titan IO360. I change the oil every 25 hours.
 
GEM930 said:
I meant should it be cause for concern that they Use them on the ground??? As opposed to using them in the air? Probably reading too much into it.
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Probably because they are an engine shop, and don't fly airplanes? :rolleyes:
 
I had about 700 hours on my RV-6 using Napa Gold 1515 filters. Between myself and friends I bet we have over 4000 hours on those filters. They work just as well as a filter 4x the price.

For the threaded nipple you can remove one off of a Champion filter with two 3/4" nuts. I then shortened it on the lathe and installed it into the oil filter housing so that it stayed there permanently.

Show us some pics of your alternator!
 
rocketbob said:
For the threaded nipple you can remove one off of a Champion filter with two 3/4" nuts. I then shortened it on the lathe and installed it into the oil filter housing so that it stayed there permanently.
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Duhhh. I'd have never thought of that. Thanks Bob!
 
Any reason a napa gold might be better than a K & N?..... I ask only because I like the ease of safety wiring it. I found the adapter just by googling oil filter adapter...less than $8 shipped! I'll post some alternator pics in a few days. It's a kobota tractor alternator (20 amp, I think) I had a fitting machined that matches the pump so i can just use a standard sheer coupler. Can't get full charge at idle (around 12.5 volts), but anything over 1000rpm is 13.8 volts.
 
K & N oil filter

I use the K&N HP 1002 filter on my O-360. I am not sure if the filter diameter is any smaller but it is shorter and easy for you to check on the aviation aisle of your favorite auto parts store. This is the filter recommended by Casper Labs, the outfit that makes the angled oil filter adapter. I have used this filter for over 800 hours and change oil every 50 hours. I buy the filters by the case online. Dan
 
GEM930 said:
Any reason a napa gold might be better than a K & N?..... I ask only because I like the ease of safety wiring it.
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Safetying a filter not designed to be safetied is easy. Just place a worm-gear clamp around the filter and safety to the screw head of the clamp. We do this on the Rotax and Jabiru installations all the time.
 
Never understood the point of safetying oil filters. If they are loose enough to rotate, so much oil will be being pumped overboard that a piece of safety wire at that point is meaningless.
 
NAPA filters

The NAPA filters are re-labeled WIX brand. Dunno, but you might find the same filter in WIX brand a bit less expensive? Heck, we don't have NAPA around here, so I buy the WIX stuff at O'Reilly's. Never use safety wire either, but be sure to use DC4 compound on the O ring, not engine oil. Mels' tip about the worm clamp is spot on, if you want wire.

WIX #51085 fits my TCM 550, and my wife's 300 hemi too.

Carry on!
Mark
 
Normal oil pressure for an auto engine is generally in the 40-50 PSI range, not unusial for a cold Lyc with 50W oil to hit 100 PSI. Are you sure you really want to use that "save a few bucks" oil filter on your high dollar aircraft engine?
 
Yes

Walt said:
Normal oil pressure for an auto engine is generally in the 40-50 PSI range, not unusial for a cold Lyc with 50W oil to hit 100 PSI. Are you sure you really want to use that "save a few bucks" oil filter on your high dollar aircraft engine?
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Yes, I'm sure. I know the fella who did the testing - Rocketbob will chime in here soon enough. IIRC, 100PSI is about 30% of what it takes to pop the better brands of auto filters, so the auto filters are about the same strength as the coolers we all use. I think the filter cases are made of the same thickness materials as the AC filters too? Bob?

Carry on!
Mark
 
Walt said:
Normal oil pressure for an auto engine is generally in the 40-50 PSI range, not unusial for a cold Lyc with 50W oil to hit 100 PSI. Are you sure you really want to use that "save a few bucks" oil filter on your high dollar aircraft engine?
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Not interested in saving a few bucks, as stated in the original tread, I'm looking for a little more clearance for my backup alternator and the k&n will do it.
 
The napa gold 51515 will not work... Too wide. There are some other crosses from the k&n 2005 to wix filters. Noticed the bypass pressures are different between the napa and the k&n. 8-11 for napa and 11 to 17 for the k&n. Anyone know what the champion is?
 
K & N oil filter

Another bit of info on the K&N HP filters. The Casper Labs developer recommends the HP 1002 filter because (his words) that the 1002 filter is manufactured under contract by a well known aircraft oil filter outfit and they didn't change any of their processes or materials to produce an unbranded filter that simply has a K&N logo and filter number. Hence, the ability to use safety wire on it. Dan
 
Well after looking at a TON of info on the net I'd feel comfortable with either the napa gold or the k&n. I'd like to get the filter with the bypass pressure closest to the champion.
 
If you preheat your oil in the winter the bypass pressure will never be a concern. Or, if its so full of junk it bypasses. Then you have, uh, other issues. :)
 
True! Perhaps I'm, again, over thinking this! I did find that the correct tempest filter (aa48110) for my engine (0360a1d) has a bypass pressure of 12-14 psi so I guess the K&N might be the best choice, at least based on pressure alone.
 
guccidude1 said:
Another bit of info on the K&N HP filters. The Casper Labs developer recommends the HP 1002 filter because (his words) that the 1002 filter is manufactured under contract by a well known aircraft oil filter outfit and they didn't change any of their processes or materials to produce an unbranded filter that simply has a K&N logo and filter number. Hence, the ability to use safety wire on it. Dan
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Looks interesting (and promising) - but when I looked at in on the web, I didn't see any safety wire tabs - are they really there, and I'm not seeing them?
 
If you scroll down and read the description you see this:

"The drilled hole on the nut is for a safety wire attachment. Required for many types of racing, the safety wire prevents blown oil filters from falling on the track and representing a hazard to other race vehicles. "

How does an oil filter get "blown?"

While these filters are about half the price of a Champion and I am interested, I am also a bit skeptical. The hundreds of hours of use are useful but.....
 
blown filter

An oil filter becomes blown when too much pressure is applied and the filter swells. It will actually lift the gasket off the seat and leak there. It happens occassionally on hydraulic equipment when there is a detent valve malfunction. I've experienced it several times.

The K & N filter has a series of holes in the nut for safety wire.
 
rocketbob said:
Sounds like you've never been to a drag strip.
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Correct statement. I am all for saving money but the oil system is not one to go cheap. If this discussion proves that the K&N filter is perfectly safe for aviation applications...great.
 
K & N filter

K & N filters are safe to use on aircraft engines.......just my humble opinion from several years of experience using them.
 
K&N HP-1002 Filter

Just another data point: I've been using the indicated K&N filter for about 3 years now when I converted to the Casper Labs 90? adapter. I switched to this filter on the recommendation of the Casper developer, who is a retired Pratt & Whitney engineer.

For what it's worth, I have had no change in my regular oil analysis results since converting. I was also told that this filter was originally an aircraft design that ended up in the K&N product line through an acquisition. I pay about $10 per filter at Amazon, but better deals are probably out there. I like it a lot mainly because it takes up much less room in the engine compartment. Cutting it and inspecting the pleats is the same as the Champion filters I used to use. It has a hole through the top 1" nut for safety wiring.
 
Bob Ellis said:
To add an endorsement to the K&N HP-1002 Bart at Aero Sport Power approved it's use to me in an email. I had an issue with the Inverted oil pick up hose chaffing on the Champion filter. I haven't flown with it yet but have no doubts about using it.

Regards

Bob Ellis
www.rv-8.co.uk
The end is near
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The 1002 appears to be similar to the 2005. The 2005 is
an 1 1/4 longer, however, so if it will fit lengthwise, I'll just use it as I already have it, and perhaps the extra length adds some more filter media... Well see... Hoping to install the new engine soon!
 
I think I'll stick with the Champion, with about 4 filter changes per year average, annual savings for me could be as high as $40! Thanks but I'll pass.
 
Walt said:
I think I'll stick with the Champion, with about 4 filter changes per year average, annual savings for me could be as high as $40! Thanks but I'll pass.
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Once again.... Back to the original post..... Not trying to save money...... Trying to save space!
 
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