rmarshall234

Well Known Member
I picked up an original TR ElectroAir unit like the one I had on my RV3 years ago and am installing it on my 180hp Lyc O-360 but want to use automotive plugs this time. What are you guys -that are running this system- using as an automotive plug? I have chrome cylinders and burn a bit of oil so might need something on the hotter side.
 
I used to run the Jeff Rose system and tried the Autolite 386's for a while using an automotive harness.

With the modified aircraft plugs harness, I used REM37BY's.
 
I used to run the Jeff Rose system and tried the Autolite 386's for a while using an automotive harness.

With the modified aircraft plugs harness, I used REM37BY's.
Thanks guys! In my previous experience with this unit I ran the REM37BYs with good success but want to use automotive plugs this time. Autolite 386’s got it! There is a hand written note in the box that says NGK BR8EIX but have not idea where that came from or the reliability of it. Maybe the cross-reference plug for the 386’s.
 
Thanks guys! In my previous experience with this unit I ran the REM37BYs with good success but want to use automotive plugs this time. Autolite 386’s got it! There is a hand written note in the box that says NGK BR8EIX but have not idea where that came from or the reliability of it. Maybe the cross-reference plug for the 386’s.
The Autolite 386 is a 18 MM hot plug for a lycoming. It also has a tapered seat unlike an aircraft spark plug. Be careful not to damage the seat in the cylinder head. And, please don't use to much timing. The NGK BR8ES 14 MM series of plugs with adapters will perform well. Set the plug gap at .025 . Also, make sure the vacuum line is secure and unable to detach form the unit. It will go to full advance and detonate if it comes loose.
 
The Autolite 386 is a 18 MM hot plug for a lycoming. It also has a tapered seat unlike an aircraft spark plug. Be careful not to damage the seat in the cylinder head. And, please don't use to much timing. The NGK BR8ES 14 MM series of plugs with adapters will perform well. Set the plug gap at .025 . Also, make sure the vacuum line is secure and unable to detach form the unit. It will go to full advance and detonate if it comes loose.
I would think it would fail to ambient air pressure, which is more than MP, and would give you less advance than if the vacuum line was attached.
 
The Autolite 386 is a 18 MM hot plug for a lycoming. It also has a tapered seat unlike an aircraft spark plug. Be careful not to damage the seat in the cylinder head. And, please don't use to much timing. The NGK BR8ES 14 MM series of plugs with adapters will perform well. Set the plug gap at .025 . Also, make sure the vacuum line is secure and unable to detach form the unit. It will go to full advance and detonate if it comes loose.
Thanks Full Throttle, that is good additional information. No worries about timing running away…I have the panel mount timing display -as I did on my RV-3- and wouldn’t install EI w/o one. That is interesting about MAP line…my unit does have the MAP sensor and I plan on using it. The manual talks about adding a switch to disable the feature if it fails - which may speak to your comment and concern. I’ll test that feature when I do the installation and may very well install a switch. According to the Vacuum Advance Curve Chart in the manual…maximum advance of 18 degrees would be achieved at 17 inches of manifold pressure. This, in addition to the RPM advance which tops out at 30 degrees at 3,000 rpm.
 
My questions have been answered - thx again guys - but thought some might be interested in seeing the advance curves from this original TR Electroair user manual…
 

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I have 1600 hours on a Jeff Rose system with 386's. The Autolite 386 is a gasketed plug, not a taper seat as previously quoted and requires no adapter to install. Remove the supplied washer and use a copper aviation plug washer. Also use a pair of dikes and crimp the tip to prevent loosening.

GM
 
I have 1600 hours on a Jeff Rose system with 386's. The Autolite 386 is a gasketed plug, not a taper seat as previously quoted and requires no adapter to install. Remove the supplied washer and use a copper aviation plug washer. Also use a pair of dikes and crimp the tip to prevent loosening.

GM
More good info, thx 444!

The manual is 20 pages..
 
Thanks Full Throttle, that is good additional information. No worries about timing running away…I have the panel mount timing display -as I did on my RV-3- and wouldn’t install EI w/o one. That is interesting about MAP line…my unit does have the MAP sensor and I plan on using it. The manual talks about adding a switch to disable the feature if it fails - which may speak to your comment and concern. I’ll test that feature when I do the installation and may very well install a switch. According to the Vacuum Advance Curve Chart in the manual…maximum advance of 18 degrees would be achieved at 17 inches of manifold pressure. This, in addition to the RPM advance which tops out at 30 degrees at 3,000 rpm.
I have a switch to disable vacuum advance in my Rocket, and I use the EFIS to display the timing. I also experimented with changing the advance curve by intercepting the MAP sensor output and inserting my own timing advance curve using a microprocessor. This allowed me to optimize performance.

I could gain a few knots of extra cruise speed this way, but I ended up removing this modification because of the risk of breaking something. I had an oscilloscope connected to the P-Leads to analyze the ignition waveforms in flight and it would clearly indicate misfires. In the end, factory is best.
 
After this discussion I will be adding a switch to control the MAP advance curve. Seems like the prudent thing to do and I can see the changes realtime on the advance display that TR always provided as an option. Also, ordered 2 sets of Autolite 386 plugs from NAPA, less than $3 ea.😁