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woodsideraff

Well Known Member
I would like to check/adjust the breakout force on the nosewheel to see if I can correct a slight shimmy. In order to do so I must get the nosewheel off the ground.

My search of the forums has come empty on lifting the nosewhee. Could someone please suggest a proper way to do this.

Thanks and regards,

Rafael
 
Rafael,

On my -9A all I did was to drill and insert an expansion bolt with a steel angle (with another hole in it) in my hangar floor, and then used a ratchetable hold down strap attached to the angle and the rear tie down. Can be quicker if you have someone hold down the tail, get the nosewheel off the ground, while you latch the strap between the 2 points. keep clear of the wheel while it is in the air and don't get 'under' anything..

Allan
 
Thanks, allan.

I was under the impression that it's not a good idea to pull the nose up by pulling down on the tail. I guess our RVs are much stronger than a 172, which I know does not recommend this practice.

Cheers,

Rafael
 
nose wheel break out force

have someone hold the tail down and use a fish scale on the nose wheel to measure breakout force. Five second job.

Pat Stewart
 
Here is what I do

I bought 2x4 studs from Lowe's and sawed them into short lengths roughly 12 inches in length and a small piece of 3/4" plywood that saw two squares about 12 to 14 inches on a side. I put one piece of plywood on the ground or pavement then stack the small 2x4 pieces "log cabin" style to provide a strong stable base as high as I need to go and place the second piece of plywood on top. I bought a car jack from an auto parts store for the lifting operation and it goes on top of the top piece of plywood. I have two airplane interfaces. For the main gear I sawed a with the grain slot in a piece of 4 inch long piece of 2x4 to mate with the wing tiedown ring. That is my jack point. For the nose landing gear I pad with rags, a fuselage width piece of 2x4 and place it on the jack stack aft of the exhaust across the fuselage. Be sure to chock the wheels to prevent rolling off the jack. I have used this method on two airplanes for many years. I am careful and have never had a problem.

Bob Axsom
 
I use 150 lbs of barbell weights and a 500 lb cap. small (size of your fist) chain hoist and pull down the tail (or you could just have a rope tied to the weights with a hook on the other end to hook the tie down ring but you will need help with this) to check the air pressure in the nose wheel about every three months.

During that time, I check the wheel bearings by spinning the wheel and shake it to check for play. I also grab the entire nose assy, and shake it right to left to see if there is any play in the one bolt that holds the entire strut on.

The last thing that I do, is lift the wheel to check for play in the lower bushing of the motor mount that the strut fits in. You can also pound the lower bend of the strut with your fist, the gear will clatter if there is play.

I did find play in the lower bushing. It was .005" But at the wheel, it moved about 1/8" up and down. As a temporary fix, I placed a .005" shim under the strut in the lower part of the bushing. Tied it off with safety wire to keep in one place till I can get a new bushing and figure out how to change it without removing the motor mount from the A/C. This should be a good temp. fix due to the fact that the load is on the top of the bushing.

If you don't remove the play, it will just beat it's self up.
 
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woodsideraff said:
Thanks, allan.

I was under the impression that it's not a good idea to pull the nose up by pulling down on the tail. I guess our RVs are much stronger than a 172, which I know does not recommend this practice.

Cheers,

Rafael
Click to expand...
On a 4 place A/C, the cg is more fwd on the landing ger due to the people in th back seats........ My 6A was ok but you might want to ask Vans about the 8A..........
 
I have a side-to-side shimmy Im trying to correct as well. My pull-out force is correct and the nose gear leg seems to be snug. Last thing to do was to check the wheel balance at a motorcycle shop. It was significantly out of balance - more than I would ever suspect for such a small wheel. Havent had a chance to check to see if the shimmy is fixed, but thought I would pass the info along. My balance job cost me $8 and was done in 5 minutes.

erich
 
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