danielhv

danielhv

Well Known Member
I was following the directions the plans gave, and I guess I wasnt thinking or overlooked these holes, but now I've boxed myself in... This is the rudder, on the holes that rivet the skin, counterweight skins, and spar. What should I do? Drill out all these rivets and re-do? :( I did the same thing on both sides, so its six holes total. Should I just use MK-319-BS blind rivets to fix these 6 holes?

:mad:

img_2217.jpg
 
You probably could use the mk 319 bs rivets there. I personally don't see why you couldn't. Mostly cosmetics. If it were me, i would probably drill (very carefully) all of the rivets out of the tip and remove it too get in there and use the proper rivets. Don't sweat it is not that big of an opps, and either fix will work just fine.
 
will the 319's be long enough? The plans are calling for AN426AD3-4's. I know the 319's have been used in place of -3.5's but not sure about the -4's...
 
MK-319-BS

Correct, I overlooked the thickness of the material. Calipered thickness of the sheets on my particular rudder is .092 thick. Clearly MK-319-bs is not suitable in this application.
 
I had to remove the top rib rivets

danielhv said:
mmmkay, so what now? Drill all those rivets out or order some MK-419-BS'.
Click to expand...

The flange angles on my top rib weren't perfect and it caused cosmetic problems with the skins at the tip. So I debated for a few years and just recently removed the rib (drilled out the rivets), rebent the flanges and reinstalled the rib. Wasn't that big a problem. The only recommendation is to pre-squeeze the rivets prior to setting them.
 
I'd use blind rivets, that area would suck to do the second time around, unless you nail the drilling out process, which most people don't.
 
Personally, I'd just use the MK-419-BS blind rivets and be done with it. Yeah, solid rivets would look better, but I've made things worse more than once by trying to drill out perfectly good rivets in order to replace a blind rivet with a solid one.

I have blind rivets in several visible places on my project thus far, and if someone points them out and says they look bad then...to quote Kahuna..."they will be kicked, then ignored" :).
 
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not MK-319-BS

ChiefPilot said:
Personally, I'd just use the MK319 blind rivets and be done with it. Yeah, solid rivets would look better, but I've made things worse more than once by trying to drill out perfectly good rivets in order to replace a blind rivet with a solid one.

I have blind rivets in several visible places on my project thus far, and if someone points them out and says they look bad then...to quote Kahuna..."they will be kicked, then ignored" :).
Click to expand...

Yes... but I wouldn't use MK-319-BS rivets outside of the suggested application of the manufacturer....:rolleyes:

As a previous poster mentioned, get some MK-419-BS which have a grip length of 0.100 inches.

Use the correct part for the application....:)
 
az_gila said:
Yes... but I wouldn't use MK-319-BS rivets outside of the suggested application of the manufacturer....:rolleyes:

As a previous poster mentioned, get some MK-419-BS which have a grip length of 0.100 inches.

Use the correct part for the application....:)
Click to expand...

Yep, you are absolutely right. Typo on my part; I updated my previous post to reflect the correct rivet.
 
You could use cs4-4 there and counter sink them just a little more, of course you will need to drill out to 1/8. Counter sink a little extra and then put some micro fill in there and sand. I did this at the roll bar for my tip up at the skins, coudn't get in there with the standard rivits. Now it's nice and smooth and it's a, hay where's the rivets, type of thing, looks good if you know what I mean.
 
Not sure you should use MK's here...

I don't know - this area where the counterweight skin doubler ties to the rudder spar, end rib, and skin, actually sees a fair bit of loading, and potentially dynamic loading, during gust response because of the counterweight. I would be reluctant to deviate from the normal solid rivets here. If you are going to use blind rivets here, I would suggest real Cherry rivets.

Steve.
RV-8QB, canopy skirt and FWF
 
k, i put 3 cherrymax rivets in there. (6 total, 3 each side) Had to drill up to a #30 though, but it went in, and looks better than empty holes. Not as good as normal solid rivets tho. Oh well, some day I may just re-do the tail section just for fun or something. Till then, ill build on.

Thanks for all the help guys!
 
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