R

Rupester

Well Known Member
Re: upper intersection fairings;
1) the logical location for the front screws looks like it (they) will be under the gear weldment in the cabin (A model). That could be done with, say, rivnuts, but not platenuts. Do any of you have intersection fairing screws in that location? How'd you do it?

Re: lower intersection fairings:
2) the instructions recommend splitting the fairing vertically at the wheelpant split, and then bond to front and rear halves.
- does this imply the original aft split point gets bonded?
- Did anyone not do the vertical split, and opt to remove the lower fairing anytime a wheelpant half must come off? How big a pain does that turn out to be?
 
Rupester said:
Re: upper intersection fairings;
1) the logical location for the front screws looks like it (they) will be under the gear weldment in the cabin (A model). That could be done with, say, rivnuts, but not platenuts. Do any of you have intersection fairing screws in that location? How'd you do it?

Re: lower intersection fairings:
2) the instructions recommend splitting the fairing vertically at the wheelpant split, and then bond to front and rear halves.
- does this imply the original aft split point gets bonded?
- Did anyone not do the vertical split, and opt to remove the lower fairing anytime a wheelpant half must come off? How big a pain does that turn out to be?
Click to expand...

I did it a little different. I did not split the lower faring at all. I bonded it two the front wheel pant half and left the split at the rear. When you remove the forward wheel pant half, the split opens up and slides over the gear leg fairing. The rear of the fairing is held to the rear half of the wheel pant with two screws and nut plates in the pant. It is aerodynamically cleaner, and easier to do than the vertical split.

Here are some shots. Unfortunately I don't have a close up of the mounted fairings. http://s232.beta.photobucket.com/user/jsoliveira/library/RV9a Wheel Fairings

On the upper fairings, you can place a couple of the screws so they go into underlying longerons or angle stock. Then drill and tap the mounts. I only used a nut plate once on each side.

I am sure there are a lot of equally good ways to do this.

John Oliveira
N709RV
 
JSOliveira said:
I did it a little different. I did not split the lower faring at all. I bonded it two the front wheel pant half and left the split at the rear. When you remove the forward wheel pant half, the split opens up and slides over the gear leg fairing. The rear of the fairing is held to the rear half of the wheel pant with two screws and nut plates in the pant. It is aerodynamically cleaner, and easier to do than the vertical split.
N709RV
Click to expand...

I like that idea. I'm a bit put off by the idea of splitting a well-made, slick lower fairing, and potentially creating a gap at the split joint ... where there isn't one now!
 
Good timing Rupester

I have started fitting my wheel pants and fairings and pondered the same questions you asked. Like you a search didn't bring up much except one thread where a poster stated; Only attach the upper intersection fair to the fuse only, do not attach to the wing root side because as the leg flex's up and down it will work on the thinner material. Has anybody else have any thoughts on this???

I like Johns method of leaving the split at the rear on the bottom fairing.

Bob
 
For sure ...

I appreciate your point. I realized early-on in the process that the intersection fairings need to be a slip fit on the gear legs, due to the flexing movement. Looks like I'm going the keyed rivnut approach on the upper fairings, and the "rear split" approach on the lowers.
 
Or on the lowers, you can just put 4 nutplates in the wheel pant (2 front, 2 rear) and screw the intersections onto the two halves (leaving split at the rear of the intersection). Not quite as aerodynamic as John's solution but has worked well for me.

Greg
 
Greg Arehart said:
Or on the lowers, you can just put 4 nutplates in the wheel pant (2 front, 2 rear) and screw the intersections onto the two halves (leaving split at the rear of the intersection). Not quite as aerodynamic as John's solution but has worked well for me.

Greg
Click to expand...

Greg, that is what I am doing too.

This is a go plane and that solution works for me!

Keep things simple!

Good call!

;) CJ
 
RetiredRacer said:
I have started fitting my wheel pants and fairings and pondered the same questions you asked. Like you a search didn't bring up much except one thread where a poster stated; Only attach the upper intersection fair to the fuse only, do not attach to the wing root side because as the leg flex's up and down it will work on the thinner material. Has anybody else have any thoughts on this???

I like Johns method of leaving the split at the rear on the bottom fairing.

Bob
Click to expand...

It seems like it would not matter as you are mounting them with the plane sitting on it's gear under load. That is how they spend most of their life. When the gear relax they would flex the upper fairings down, but not very much. As the gear is tapered, and swept back, not all of the motion is at the top. It is not a hinge. I fastened mine to the root and fuselage, with the split open at the rear and have had no problem. They are pretty flexible.
 
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