The light kit instructions assume a post-wing construction installation. Doing it while you are building the wing makes it a bit easier, and the differences are very straightforward. I think I saw a question about this, but then couldn't find it again.
For the left and right wing, on Page 16-03 & 16-04, as you pull wires and wire the terminal bracket for the stall switch, go ahead and pull the wires and wire the bracket per Light Kit page 40-05.
As you are skinning the right wing, you skin the bottom first. Once you roll it over, install the landing light before adding the outboard top skin. It is much easier having access from behind the light.
The scariest thing for me was cutting the landing light cutout. My advice is to FIRST cut both of the holes in the wingtip pieces W-1204D-L and W-1204D-R. This is per page 40-02. Read the other posts (below) about being sure you use the templates correctly. I made these cuts using a small Dremel tool running a 1.25 inch. thin abrasive disk. (Several of those disks came in a big dremel "kit" I got at Lowes.) I started by using my step drill to make one or more holes in each corner of the cutout, at the start of where the curves begin. It is easier to make these large cutouts while the pieces are still flat - before you do the tab bending on those pieces (page 17-06). The best thing about doing these cutouts first is that they are later covered up by the fiberglass pieces, so your own learning curve does not show.
So the same procedure worked very well for cutting the landing light cutout. I first made two holes in each corner using the step drill where the curves begin, then used the dremel.
I cleaned up the resulting hole with a 2 inch 3M scotchbright wheel chucked into my high-speed (2500 rpm max) Sears electric (corded) drill. It smoothed the edges and the corner curves beautifully - which is good because everyone will look at this cutout! By the way, coupled with a leather glove, this wheel and drill make easy work of deburring edges of large aluminum pieces that you can't take to your 6" grinder scotchbrite wheel.
http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=3MW7A2S
I used the same dremel 1.25 abrasive disk to cut the landing light plexiglass piece to size. Actually it melts it rather than cuts it. There is plenty of extra plexi on that piece, so you can practice making some cuts before you get to the ones you really need to make.
Other useful posts on this are:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=61809
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=53361
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=57038
It is easy to mark the landing light cutout for the wrong wing bay! Even though I had read this:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=58043
I initially started to mark it wrong!
Just finished wings including flaperons, starting fuselage.
Bill H, N412BR reserved
For the left and right wing, on Page 16-03 & 16-04, as you pull wires and wire the terminal bracket for the stall switch, go ahead and pull the wires and wire the bracket per Light Kit page 40-05.
As you are skinning the right wing, you skin the bottom first. Once you roll it over, install the landing light before adding the outboard top skin. It is much easier having access from behind the light.
The scariest thing for me was cutting the landing light cutout. My advice is to FIRST cut both of the holes in the wingtip pieces W-1204D-L and W-1204D-R. This is per page 40-02. Read the other posts (below) about being sure you use the templates correctly. I made these cuts using a small Dremel tool running a 1.25 inch. thin abrasive disk. (Several of those disks came in a big dremel "kit" I got at Lowes.) I started by using my step drill to make one or more holes in each corner of the cutout, at the start of where the curves begin. It is easier to make these large cutouts while the pieces are still flat - before you do the tab bending on those pieces (page 17-06). The best thing about doing these cutouts first is that they are later covered up by the fiberglass pieces, so your own learning curve does not show.
So the same procedure worked very well for cutting the landing light cutout. I first made two holes in each corner using the step drill where the curves begin, then used the dremel.
I cleaned up the resulting hole with a 2 inch 3M scotchbright wheel chucked into my high-speed (2500 rpm max) Sears electric (corded) drill. It smoothed the edges and the corner curves beautifully - which is good because everyone will look at this cutout! By the way, coupled with a leather glove, this wheel and drill make easy work of deburring edges of large aluminum pieces that you can't take to your 6" grinder scotchbrite wheel.
http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=3MW7A2S
I used the same dremel 1.25 abrasive disk to cut the landing light plexiglass piece to size. Actually it melts it rather than cuts it. There is plenty of extra plexi on that piece, so you can practice making some cuts before you get to the ones you really need to make.
Other useful posts on this are:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=61809
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=53361
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=57038
It is easy to mark the landing light cutout for the wrong wing bay! Even though I had read this:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=58043
I initially started to mark it wrong!
Just finished wings including flaperons, starting fuselage.
Bill H, N412BR reserved
